Goat Transplant #1

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Thanks Sheldon,

Yeah, did that. It's just my pessimism combined with my total lack of understanding of what I'm doing. :)

Seriously though, I don't think I'll have too much trouble. If the mounts are a little off I can enlarge the holes a little. The tranny crossmember offers a little adjustment room as well.

Actually, this is a good spot to plug G&S.

For those that don't know, Greg and Sheldon provided my 12H-T and various goodies to facilitate my swap. These guys are not only really great people, they have also been a tremendous resource for my project and other's. If you are considering an engine conversion or just need diesel parts, give these guys a call.
 
That is a really cool swap. I'm thinking about moving to Oregon and buying another 60 or a 40 and would like run on bio. Just wondering how easy you think it will be to get the title changed? I'm assuming if you don't live in one of the below areas then smog is not an issue??

This is all I found...

Vehicles that must be tested

In Portland:
All 1975 and newer diesel powered vehicles with a manufacturer's gross weight rating of 8,500 pounds or less (This includes all passenger cars and most light-duty trucks) registered within the DEQ Portland area boundaries.

In Medford:
  • All cars, trucks, vans, motor homes and buses powered by gasoline, alternative fuels (such as propane) or hybrids 20 years old or less and registered within the DEQ Medford area boundaries
  • All diesel powered vehicles 20 years old or less with a manufacturer's gross weight rating of 8,500 pounds or less (This includes all passenger cars and most light-duty trucks) registered within the DEQ Medford area boundaries. This includes all passenger cars and most light-duty trucks.
 
My area is smog exempt, fortunately. However one of the advantages of bio is the lower emissions. Getting a bio powered vehicle to pass is often not an issue.

I have a couple of progress shots to post. Not much, just engine mounts.

I just started on the t-case rebuild.

:cheers:
diesel-mount-lt.webp
diesel-mount-rt.webp
 
OK, one more.

This is the condition of the engine bay with 2F removed.
2f-out.webp
 
Looking good, Welds look great, stronger than from the factory I'll bet.
Maybe GB and I will have to stop in next week and check out the progress
you around thurs?
 
Sheldon,

Come on down! I can make arrangements to be here when you come through.

PM me with details. I'll make it happen.


:cheers:
 
Alternator idea: not being firmiliar with the 12H-T I might be way off but on the BJ-60 and HJ-60 the alternator and vacum pump are combined. I was looking at making up mounts and using a regular 100 amp alt for a Toyota gas truck from Napa and a vacum pump from a Ford diesel in the junk yard.
 
I've thought about a few different combinations myself. Is the Ford pump a separate belt driven or electric pump?

I looked for electric pumps. All that I could find were very expensive.
 
all electric vaccum pumps that I seen in Summit are around 300 USD .. so in my future I see and Hyundai alternator ( 110 amps ) with integrated vacc pump in rear as same as you see in Toyota stuff ..
 
T-case rebuild is progressing well. I currently have gears and shafts all over my work area. It stinks to hell of gear oil and solvent. I might be ready to drop in the engine and other stuff by this weekend.
 
Finally dropped in the power train a couple days ago. I had some issues making it fit. All better now. (Many thanks to Greg and Sheldon).

I've started reassembling the engine bay, grill, etc.

No pics available yet as it's already dark and rainy when I leave work. I'll try to get pics this weekend.
 
Last edited:
OK. Finally have some pics.

They show the assembled power train, engine placement, and reassembly of the front.
whole-drivetrain.webp
engine-in-2.webp
front-in-front.webp
 
A couple more. It's starting to look like my old goat again. :bounce:
side-front-in.webp
front-complete.webp
 
I can almost hear it rattle already.
Looks good.
 
Goat Update

I reassembled the interior and installed a bunch of stuff over the weekend. I installed a vacuum boosted clutch master from G&S. This required extensive firewall and clutch pedal mods. I also made custom mounting brackets for the coolant overflow bottle, PS reservoir, and dual vacuum reservoir.

What remains at this point is the throttle cable (something custom is required), plumbing, wiring, and fluids.

Pics soon. :cheers:
 
Yeah, definitely not a shake the box conversion. The major components bolt right in. The custom stuff isn't too difficult to overcome.

You don't have to convert the clutch master. The stock setup will work just fine. I just wanted the luxury.
 
Boosted Clutch Master

Here are some pics from the conversion to power clutch. This was kind of a pain. Knowing what I know now, I don't think I would have done it. As you can see, it is not a drop in.
old-master-removed.webp
master-side.webp
new-master-fitment.webp
 
The finished clutch master installation. I think it worked out OK. I'll have to wait until the engine is running to find out how well it really works.
new-master-installed.webp
 

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