Okay after much consternation, head scratching and wrestling of heavy things, I think I've arrived at a workable compromise. The 3DBB says that I should have less than 2 degrees at the pinion. Unfortunately the onboard air system will have to move now. Barely enough room for the PS pump. A test fit of the twin sticks looks okay so far. Now it's time to invent some new mounting solutions and get it all stuck back into the frame.
Just can't catch a break here. I stumbled onto a R4 compressor setup while wandering in the bone yard wilds. Thought I found an winner for my on board air conundrum.
Not. The belt is just too close.
The Scout box decision and location has become quite the prima donna for space and neighbors now.
Next try is going to be the type 2 saginaw pump adapted to the type one serp bracket so I can get the smaller pulley
Pondering radiator placement/mounting/shroud seriously now. Previously I had a Ron Davis aluminum side tank rad mounted in a similar manner as what the MAF kit does. After seeing what happens over time with this. And reading some mud complaints about same. (core tube bending) I'm now on the hunt for some GM style tank cushions to put the stress on the tank bottoms and not the core. Even found some technical data on the Ron Davis site saying specifically to not put bottom mounts on the core. Top is okay though.
Hats of to the durability of this rad and the abuse it took and never leaked.
Still flip flopping on whether to go get the same radiator I have or try something else in hopes of a better custom mounting situation. Hoping to make a trip over to Ron Davis this week.
In the meantime I got the front diff out for a look see to make sure all is still well inside. Seems to be A-okay. The only thing I'll do is try to seal up the splines leaking through the pinion flange. Maybe a new pinion seal too.
New radiator is now in the house. I ended up buying a Howe unit from Summit. I didn't want to wait the 3-4 weeks quoted to get the same Ron Davis one I had. The Howe seems to be a little lighter construction, but I think it will do fine. It will lend itself better to the tank saddle mounting I'm pondering too.
Started with some 1" sq tube, split it in half and opened up the inside with my mill drill. (rookie machinist in training). Got the fit pretty good for some universal urethane saddles from Jegs. I decided later that some thicker stock GM rubber saddles would do better. I'll cap the ends of the channels next.
The stock GM fan that came with my serpentine setup is just too big, 19" diameter. It would make a shroud difficult and was way too close to hitting the steering box. Thanks to a link to a great thread on Pirate by Texican tech contest-cooling a V8 - Pirate4x4.Com (found with a IH8MUD search ). I knew just what look for in a reverse rotation smaller diameter fan. I managed to dig up a piece from a 92 3.8L Cougar. Looks like a much better solution. Pics below show the old and new fans compared, and starting to mock up the new rad with some old and new pieces.
Pondering mounting the top brace off of the tube that will tie the shock hoops together.
Using some old and new pieces, got the lower mount worked out and tacked together. Slotted bolt on saddles for some adjustment in case a future radiator differs a little. Slotted mount to the frame for more wiggle room. The edges of the channel piece will hold the shroud. Magically an old spare radiator hose from a long gone 84 S-10 blazer seems be the perfect mate to the 94 Pickup thermostat housing.
Next : Tie the shock hoops together and use that to brace the top of the radiator........
Feel like I'm making some real progress again. Got with the neighbor and bent up a tie bar for the shock hoops. After much meticulous measuring, re measuring, tweaking, bending and unbending I actually hit the mark on the 1st try. Designed in a pair of disconnects to allow access to stuff. Never mind that I accidentally tacked a disconnect to itself because I can't see crap up close in the weld helmet.