Glow Plug Buzz Bar issue...Any thoughts ? (5 Viewers)

[kenjera]

l thought l'd look at the starting issue with the ute and by chance l found the buzz bar sensor bracket had burnt through as it connects to the small connector bracket, everything else was fine. So l made a bracket to bolt to the end of the existing bracket (a temp fix, new bracket on back order)..when l began reconnecting everything the insulator plug disintegrated..l then created a rubber plug to replace it (another temp fix, new Ins plug ordered). Once it was all connected, battery etc.. l switched the ignition on &... the buzz bar lit up orange, burnt off its insulation & smoked...l quickly turned off the ignition & disconnected the battery..

All l've done is add an extension to the broken bracket to reconnect it to the buzz bar/temp fix the insulator plug....anyone any thoughts...?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Well it didn't let out the magic smoke for nothing. Did you take picture before you messed with the wiring? If not, do that next time. For me close vision sucks since they fixed my cataracts along with my near sightedness. I'm going to get arms length glasses.
Have you looked at the correct wiring diagram for your rig? There are free downloads here somewhere. Color codes mean something most of the time.

The only sound I want to hear when I switch on the ignition is the clacking of the electric diode fuel pump - after it quiets down I know the carb float bowl is full and I turn to key to engaged the starter.

 

[duncanrm]

Are you specifically after originality?

If not, I'd delete everything glow related mounted to the intake manifold (buzz bar components, the two resistors) and run the main glow wire direct to the glow rail buzz bar and drive the solenoid with a push button on your dash.. the classic Wilson Switch. 10.5V plugs should be used if you vehicle is 12V, that means any of Toyota 19850-68010, NGK Y-147T, Denso DG232, Bosch GPT218, Champion CH133, HKT PT 145

Getting those resistors to work once the insulating mechanism is failed is not entirely straight forward..

If you're keen to retain your Superglow system and the two intake manifold resistors you're going to have to disassemble, fully understand come up with your own insulating assembly for each of the two resistors..

 

[kenjera]

Are you specifically after originality?

If not, I'd delete everything glow related mounted to the intake manifold (buzz bar components, the two resistors) and run the main glow wire direct to the glow rail buzz bar and drive the solenoid with a push button on your dash.. the classic Wilson Switch. 10.5V plugs should be used if you vehicle is 12V, that means any of Toyota 19850-68010, NGK Y-147T, Denso DG232, Bosch GPT218, Champion CH133, HKT PT 145

Getting those resistors to work once the insulating mechanism is failed is not entirely straight forward..

If you're keen to retain your Superglow system and the two intake manifold resistors you're going to have to disassemble, fully understand come up with your own insulating assembly for each of the two resistors..

l'm at the point l want a functioning ignition/start sys, if a wilson switch set up resolves the issue l'll go with it ( and it'll be cheaper than the $330 l've been quoted for the bar sensor bracket on its own)... l take it a set of Terrain Tamer 12v sys...10.5v glow plugs for the 60 series 2H eng will do the job...?
Where's the solenoid located ?

 

[kenjera]

l'm at the point l want a functioning ignition/start sys, if a wilson switch set up resolves the issue l'll go with it ( and it'll be cheaper than the $330 l've been quoted for the bar sensor bracket on its own)... l take it a set of Terrain Tamer 12v sys...10.5v glow plugs

 

[duncanrm]

Where's the solenoid located ?

What is your vehicle model? HJ47 - passenger footwell.

 

[kenjera]

Its a HJ47...l'll check it out later today...l know there's the Edic, heater relay, & start relay down there... the feed wire to the current set up is a black/red stripe wire from the loom l'll back track it to the footwell wiring.

 

[kenjera]

What is your vehicle model? HJ47 - passenger footwell.

Thanks for help Duncan..

 

[jim land]

Are you specifically after originality?

If not, I'd delete everything glow related mounted to the intake manifold (buzz bar components, the two resistors) and run the main glow wire direct to the glow rail buzz bar and drive the solenoid with a push button on your dash.. the classic Wilson Switch. 10.5V plugs should be used if you vehicle is 12V, that means any of Toyota 19850-68010, NGK Y-147T, Denso DG232, Bosch GPT218, Champion CH133, HKT PT 145

Getting those resistors to work once the insulating mechanism is failed is not entirely straight forward..

If you're keen to retain your Superglow system and the two intake manifold resistors you're going to have to disassemble, fully understand come up with your own insulating assembly for each of the two resistors..

Wilson win for the symplicity
Power from the relay to the plug , relay control by a manual switch

 

[kenjera]

Are you specifically after originality?

If not, I'd delete everything glow related mounted to the intake manifold (buzz bar components, the two resistors) and run the main glow wire direct to the glow rail buzz bar and drive the solenoid with a push button on your dash.. the classic Wilson Switch. 10.5V plugs should be used if you vehicle is 12V, that means any of Toyota 19850-68010, NGK Y-147T, Denso DG232, Bosch GPT218, Champion CH133, HKT PT 145

Getting those resistors to work once the insulating mechanism is failed is not entirely straight forward..

If you're keen to retain your Superglow system and the two intake manifold resistors you're going to have to disassemble, fully understand come up with your own insulating assembly for each of the two resistors..

Duncan here's an update.... none of the glow plugs are available in the UK... as they're after market products...according to Dingbro.com... anyway l phoned NGK (UK) direct and spoke with their sales (sure enough they aren't available, they stock them but won't sell them here)...so l spoke to their tech guys & they do have an equivalent for sale in the UK...so for anyone in the future...NGK stock number (7782)...Part Number Y-532J price £16 each... they're 11v tech spec up to 14v... with a slightly shorter fitting thread but the heating rod is the same length.

 

[kenjera]

Here's a full how too fit a wilson switch.. from youtube l've found for anyone looking to do the same..

 

[45Dougal]

A Wilson switch keeps it nice and easy, and imho is much more in keeping with the ethos of a 40 series, despite not being original.
If you're wiring melted like that, then either your wire was too thin, or one of your glow plugs was burnt out and shorted to ground.
Remove the bus-bar and test the resistance of each one to ground.

 

[duncanrm]

Duncan here's an update.... none of the glow plugs are available in the UK... as they're after market products...according to Dingbro.com... anyway l phoned NGK (UK) direct and spoke with their sales (sure enough they aren't available, they stock them but won't sell them here)...so l spoke to their tech guys & they do have an equivalent for sale in the UK...so for anyone in the future...NGK stock number (7782)...Part Number Y-532J price £16 each... they're 11v tech spec up to 14v... with a slightly shorter fitting thread but the heating rod is the same length.

Nice.. hopefully they work for you, can you report back if they do?

 

[kenjera]

Nice.. hopefully they work for you, can you report back if they do?

Yes l will they're on order l should have them next week sometime.

 

[kenjera]

A Wilson switch keeps it nice and easy, and imho is much more in keeping with the ethos of a 40 series, despite not being original.
If you're wiring melted like that, then either your wire was too thin, or one of your glow plugs was burnt out and shorted to ground.
Remove the bus-bar and test the resistance of each one to ground.

It was the insulation on the buzz bar switch bracket which melted, l've since ordered a new set of 11V glow plugs, and a new relay today, l picked up a nominal switch once l've everything in hand l'll do the WS conversion probably at the end of next week.. In the meantime l checked the wiring, connections & re-routed the wires...after recharging the battery last night when l connected everything up...the Ute started without any issues..(phew). Luckily l have spare (new) 12v glo plugs to swap if needed.