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Gas Tank Removal Faq ( :

Discussion in '95-older Toyota Truck Tech' started by Jukelemon, Aug 15, 2006.

  1. Jukelemon

    Jukelemon

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    OK fellows, I found the magic formula that is not anywhere noted in the FSM. This applies to 91-95 Toyota PU's, both 2 and 4wd.

    1- Disconnect Battery Neg-yeah, I am paranoid
    2- Parking Brake On.
    3- Release pressure in fuel system. If you had a leak like me, that is really not a concern. But if not, do so.
    4- Remove the 6, 12mm bolts that hold the tank skid. Set aside. This makes a great place to hold the bolts.
    5- Drain Tank by removing drain bolt at the bottom rear of the tank. Depending on your grade in your driveway, all of the gas might not drain out. I say that for future reference when you are moving it and gas comes out the line in your face-ask me how I know.
    6- Place two jacks or anything of the like to support the tank.
    7- Remove the wheel well plastic toward the fuel filler by removng the closest 4 10mm bolts. It will be obvious which ones so you can access the the hoses. Pull the well back. You will see the filler hose and the vent hose. Remove them from the hard line on the fuel filler i.e. that which is attached to the bed.
    8- Remove the 6 bolts, 3 front/3 rear that hold the tank to the chassis. At this point you want to make sure that the jacks/whatever are close to the bottom of the tank because it will begin to fall.
    9- Remove the fuel sender wiring and the fuel pump wiring.
    10- Tilt the end closest to the cab downward and let it rest on the ground. At this point it did not seem necessary to use any jack becasue the fuel filler line and the vent line held it up.
    11- Remove the 2 12mm bolts that hold the fuel lines onto the tank.
    12- Remove the two rubber lines and then the pressure fitting on the hard line (14mm and then maybe a 18mm. I used an adj. crescent so I am not sure on the 18mm). WATCH OUT for gas. You are going to right under those lines and they are full.
    13- Pull tank forward and down and you are good to go.

    If I knew this prior, this would would have been no more than a 30 minute job-unless of course you have a lot of rust-which I did not have.
     
  2. KLF

    KLF Frame waxer SILVER Star

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    I would like to ammend #4 about draining the tank. I don't like removing the drain plug, as I've had a hard time getting them to seal again. It's also a HUGE problem if you pull the plug out over a drain pan that holds 8 gallons of liduid and find out there's 10 gallons of gas in the tank.

    If this is an EFI rig, what I prefer to do is to disconnect one of the high pressure fuel lines, such as the hose at the frame in front of the tank, or you can also use the line for the cold start injector but it's slower. Then jumper the B+ and Fp contacts in the disgnostic connector, turn the key on, and use the tank fuel pump to pump the tank out. You can control the pumping easier this way. If, like in your case, the hard line at the top of the tank is rusted and leaking, put a big drain pan under the tank to catch the drippage while the pump is running.

    I've done this twice now, it's worked well in both cases.

    Oh yeah, in step 12 the line fittings are 14mm and 17mm. Try to use flare wrenches.
     
  3. Jukelemon

    Jukelemon

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    Thank for the clarity on the wrench sizes.

    In terms of the drain, not sure why it would not seal back using either a new seal or gasket sealer. But, your experience proves otherwise. I will ammend.

    Thanks
     
  4. Jukelemon

    Jukelemon

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    Hi. The wrench size for the large fitting is 19mm not 18mm. Just wanted to clarify at least for my year i.e. 1992
     
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