I'm telling you guys... On a Toyota Truck, if you have a
sharp mileage economy decrease after 120K, it's *most likely* an O2 sensor that's on it's way out, but isn't so far out of spec to trigger a CEL. Kind of like when the MAF or Throttle Body gets dirty, but not dirty enough to trigger the CEL... Same principle applies. There's a RANGE to the specified performance which is reported to the computer as a control signal, and as long as it's in that expected range, whether wrong or not, then the computer won't know any different. Also, the O2 will be OK for a while, then one or two tanks you might drop 20% or more on MPG's, then it might jump back up or stay where it's at. They're funny like that. When a MAF or TB gets dirty and loses performance, you don't see a dramatic drop, but one that slowly degrades over time.
I've had THREE toyota SUV's do the same thing, and almost identical mileage. This has been my experience over the last 7-8 years and others report similar things. I'm just offering my observations to help you pinpoint the issue.
The moral of this story is "don't overlook checking the O2 sensors with a multimeter just because you don't have a CEL".
As a front O2 sensor is on it's way out, the control signal will not be where it should. The engine will base the fuel mixture on the feedback it gets from the O2 and the amount of air it senses across the MAF. The throttle body is what controls the amount of air allowed into the engine. That's why these things are so critical in fuel economy. The computer uses the O2 sensor to adjust the fuel mixture so that there's a small bit of oxygen and unburned fuel exiting the cylinders to get a secondary "burn" in the catalytic converter and reduce the NOX emmissions. When the signal begins to go out, it doesn't sense the unburned fuel as well as it should, and the computer thinks the engine is running lean, enriching the mix. When this happens, you consume more fuel than you should, and you might even be able to smell it in the exhaust if it's REALLY out of spec. The thing that eventually triggers the CEL is usually when the heater circuit (for start-ups) goes out on the MAF, and not a faulty signal.
Posted this @ 10/27/2009:
116k miles.
(6) qts Royal Purple 5W30
(1) Mobile 1 M1-109 Filter
(8) Denso Platinum+ Plugs
(4) qts Synthetic ATF (drain and refill pan)
(1.6) qts Royal Purple 75W90 in front diff
(1.4) qts Royal Purple 75W90 in transfer case
(3.4) qts Royal Purple 75W90 in rear diff
Greased zirks in driveshafts
Cleaned Air Filter, MAF, and Throttle Body
Checked air pressure in tires (38 PSIG all around)
Besides laying off the skinny pedal, anything else that I'm missing for fuel economy???
I'm hanging at around 13MPG when it used to get around 16-ish in mixed conditions. I'm thinking I may have an O2 sensor on the way out. Similar thing happened on a 4Runner I had, and changing the front O2 sensor put the mileage back where it belonged.
Do the O2 sensors "fade" when they are on thier way out on the UZJ's?
In April 2010, I got a CEL:
I got a pair of front DENSO oxygen sensors off of Amazon.
They were $53 and change each, then I signed up for some deal where they gave me 2-day air for free. All you have to do is then "opt-out" of the renewal and the shipping becomes completely free and they don't charge you for the service.
Anyway, for $106 shipped via 2nd day for the pair was just too good to pass on. I've had a CEL for Bank 2 Sensor 1 for about 6 weeks now and I'm just now getting around to getting it taken care of.
There hasn't been any appreciable change in the "average" mileage, but occasionally, I'll have a "bad" tank where I'll get 13MPG or so compared to the normal 15-16MPG (300 miles before the idiot light comes on).
I swapped them out in my garage in all of about 20-min for the pair. These are OEM @ 128K, and the truck has zero rust (10-years in the south).