Gamiviti install on '17 200 series - rubber washers to RTV sealant (1 Viewer)

[JADANT]

I have been reading so many install stories I am spinning. I hear some people use RTV sealant to greasing the threads and rubber washers. I want to make the install solid but also don't want to make it overly complicated. Would love to get some pros and cons on using some of these methods on my install:
RTV sealant - will it make it hard to remove later?
Greasing Threads - Is this enough to make a water tight seal?
Rubber Washers/Gasket - Is this really needed? Will it take up to much space? Is it enough to make it water tight?

Any other pointers or suggestions?

Very excited and eager on getting my rack from Tim, he has been very patient with me....

 

[Romer]

I didnt use any grease or RTV. Is your rack coming with the hardware? I would also order the T handle wrenches for the job from Tim

 

[JADANT]

I didnt use any grease or RTV. Is your rack coming with the hardware? I would also order the T handle wrenches for the job from Tim

It is coming with the towers, so I am assuming it does come with the HW. I will ask him for the T handle wrenches and verify that it will come with all the HW.

Thank you Romer. I am very excited. I have a last minute planned camping trip for July 5th, but don't think it will be here in time for that but do have back to back camping trips at the beginning of August. It will be a great first use of the rack.

I have made note when uninstalling the factory rack to break all the bolts and remove them evenly so not to lose the bracket into the headliner. Just want to make sure I line up any other tools, HW, or other items that may be needed for the install.

 

[Romer]

I have made note when uninstalling the factory rack to break all the bolts and remove them evenly so not to lose the bracket into the headliner. Just want to make sure I line up any other tools, HW, or other items that may be needed for the install.

Not sure I am understanding this. I unscrewed the bolts, pulled them out and when I had them all out, I lifted the rack off. It is very simple. Mo reason you couldn't take the rack off now.

 

[ekberger]

I recently installed a Gamiviti rack on my 2017. The install was pretty straightforward. I have 4 towers on mine. Expo bar down. It just took me a bit of time to get everything aligned but that was probably just because this was my first time. I'm quite happy with it.

When I pulled off the OEM rack all I found was blue colored thread lock. So that's all I put on my bolts when I did the rack towers. No other sealant or lubricant was applied. I found the hardware that was included to be adequate, including the rubber backed washers. I did not use the T-handle wrenches but they would help. I just had a hex socket set that I used. Again, pretty simple but it took me a good part of the day to get it all buttoned down.

 

[Romer]

Thinking about it, one tip is to mount it to the front towers with the lower hole getting it as close to the roof as it will go. This will reduce any gaps at the bottom of the fairing cutting down on wind noise

 

[Yossarian]

Removal instructions copied from the online factory manual (TIS). Follow this and you shouldn't have any issues. In another thread @Taco2Cruiser recommeneded this, Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant - Permatex over RTV.

HTH

 

[JADANT]

Thanks all.

Romer, I would take the rack off now but have to use the Yakima roof top box for a camping trip. I will make sure to mount the front end as low as I can. Do you get it to the point where the fairing sits on the roof?

Yossarian, thanks for the excerpt from TIS. I will try the permatex. It couldn't hurt, and it will give me some reassurance of preventing any leaking.

Ekberger, took note of the threadlock.

Thank you all. I can't wait till it gets here. Tim, tells me I am about 2-3 weeks out.

 

[ekberger]

I also recall having a problem dropping the front of the rack sufficiently once I saw Romer's post. I spent a lot of time getting it all aligned and tightened down and decided to send Tim a photo of my work. His immediate reply was that the front was too high. He was right, so I readjusted everything once again and it's good. I have very little wind noise at this point, but my fairing is not tight to the ridge line.

There is a lot written about the proper thread locker. My conclusion is that many will work. Just be certain to get the medium strength stuff so that if you have to remove it you can. Some thread lock is high strength and requires heat to break it. You don't want that.

The rubber backed washers that are supplied will slip over the yellow plastic sleeves that are left standing up through the holes where the original mounting bolts were, albeit the fit is TIGHT. I put a little silicone on the washer and yellow sleeve to facilitate getting it set on there. This helped.

I was able to do the entire install my myself, but if you have an extra capable hand that might help. With the exception of the towers once in place, keep everything loose so that you can align the main structure before tightening everything down.

 

[linuxgod]

I used a dab of clear silicone on the threads, between the plate feet and the roof, and underneath the top of the bolts. The original Toyota rack only uses thread locker, but the feet had a rubber gasket at the bottom. Since they sit in a channel on the roof I was very concerned about water dripping inside and causing mold.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

I used a dab of clear silicone on the threads, between the plate feet and the roof, and underneath the top of the bolts. The original Toyota rack only uses thread locker, but the feet had a rubber gasket at the bottom. Since they sit in a channel on the roof I was very concerned about water dripping inside and causing mold.

Just to clarify, the stuff on the bolts from the factory is not thread locker, it is a "Non-hardening sealant no.2." It is also what I was required to use when I worked at a Toyota for roof and reveal moldings. OEM Toyota is blue, aftermarket is usually black.

Silicon will eventually wash away, granted it will take a few years. RTV is not sealant, but rather a hardening filler to be used under compression, which is why it works for precision machines components. But RTV is not good when it doesn't have smooth, firmly pressed metal to not let any movement happen.

I only bring this up because of the amount of repair work that I've had and seen done because of wrong products used because they were close enough. I just don't want anyone to have to redo stuff, or have unnecessary water fall into their headliners.

 

[ekberger]

Perhaps I stand corrected on my use of the term thread locker. As stated, the OEM stuff is "blue" in color. When I pulled the bolts on a fairly new rig the material on those bolts was very hard and dry. This was what I had experienced with various thread locker over time. Perhaps I should try to find the "no. 2" sealant. Does anyone know a spec or part number?

 

[JADANT]

Perhaps I stand corrected on my use of the term thread locker. As stated, the OEM stuff is "blue" in color. When I pulled the bolts on a fairly new rig the material on those bolts was very hard and dry. This was what I had experienced with various thread locker over time. Perhaps I should try to find the "no. 2" sealant. Does anyone know a spec or part number?

I picked up what Yossarian posted , Permatex® Form-A-Gasket® No. 2 Sealant.

 

[Taco2Cruiser]

Perhaps I stand corrected on my use of the term thread locker. As stated, the OEM stuff is "blue" in color. When I pulled the bolts on a fairly new rig the material on those bolts was very hard and dry. This was what I had experienced with various thread locker over time. Perhaps I should try to find the "no. 2" sealant. Does anyone know a spec or part number?

Yea, what @JADANT said.

I didn't know either for the longest time. Toyota uses some pretty amazing chemicals. That make the most out of a very small amount.

It's like RTV, Toyota does not use any of it, ever. They use FIPG, and yes, there is a big difference, especially when you are sealing motors for half million mile intervals.

But with a "non-hardening" sealant. It still looks and feels hard, it just has this extra ability to not become brittle, like a hardening sealant or RTV does. That's important for the component used. Like in drivetrain components, they have a precision machined surface that won't allow the two halfs move around separately, but won't be the same case like in not as precision roof rack to roof. I hope that kinda makes since.

 

[JADANT]

T-minus 5 days.

It's gonna be tight but hopefully the shipper will allow me to pick up the rack on Saturday in time for my camping trip, assuming it arrives on Saturday. I leave on Sunday and will only have Saturday to pickup, install, and load up the Rig for my 4 day trip with the guys, then back home for a day to reload and head to the coast for another 4 days. Should be a good trip. I will take pictures before, during, and after install (assuming all goes well). I have the Permatex Form-A-Gasket #2 Sealant and hoping all the HW is included.

I was thinking about bringing it to a shop but one shop here locally quoted me $600 to remove factory and install the new rack, another shop was more reasonable (a rack shop) at ~$150, depending on if they ran into issues it would go up. In any case I will do it myself, if I can get my buddies help to lift and place the rack on the roof.

As far as towers go:
Front towers use the lowest mounting holes
Middle towers the middle
Rear towers use the highest

Any other pointers...

 

[linuxgod]

IIRC my middle towers used lower holes than the front (middle holes) or rear (highest holes). I think it depends how far back you slide your rack though. Mine goes as far back as possible without hitting the trunk when open.

 

[JADANT]

Disappointing news. Called the shipper and I won't get it in time for my last trip of the summer. So for anyone planning on going with Gamiviti make sure you give yourself at least 2.5 months of lead time. In any case excited but bummed at the same time.

 

[JADANT]

Here is the rack wrapped for shipping. I added additional tabs to add eye bolts for additional tie down points, light tabs on the side and rear, pushed the drop down basket one row back, added a cut-out in the basket to allow space for roof top box to clamp to the cross bar. Tim was very easy to work with. Will post pictures once installed.

 

[JADANT]

Anyone have the roof moulding fly off? I am missing 3 or 4 pieces. Is there a way to keep them from flying off?

 

[linuxgod]

I had the unused bolt hole cover pop off when I took the truck to the car wash. Fortunately I noticed it and put it back in place. None of the other mouldings have come off mine. (fingers crossed).

I imagine if you put a dab or two of RTV underneath they'll stick to the roof.