Builds g-man's land cruiser story (1 Viewer)

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I mistakenly said it had the VR clocked at 2. Sorry Fake News! The alternator has a VR internal but you can see where the housing juts out a bit at the 7 o'clock position looking at the alt from the back. It still fits good. That is to say the housing doesn't come near bumping any other parts of the motor. I was able to switch out pulleys with a 24mm socket that was from a cheap ratchet set and has a thin wall. Not sure why Amazon changed its price but I just bought this for 26.91 so I guess you have to catch it on sale.

Images of alternator installed:

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Checking the hole in the pulley with a caliper tool it's 32 mm. My impact 24mm socket has an outside dimension of 34mm outside wall to outside wall. The 24mm socket I borrowed from a friend was 31.74mm.

Anyone have a clue as how to measure the total amp output of an alternator? I turned on my lights, high beams, radio and a/c on high and only drawing 22 amps. I guess I could hook up my winch and pull with that but I'd be running out of hands. I've got the clip on DC amp meter goes to 100amps DC
 
Off to the muffler shop next week. My muffler has a hole, my cat is burned up. Finally nice to let someone else wrestle with this truck. After that I'll work on any exhaust leaks around the egr cooler and egr pipe. Yuck! I may just get the SOR pipe, ferrule and nut...and gasket for the other end. But then again I'm thinking about Jim's EGR delete kit. Just don't know about state inspections though. What size is that huge EGR cooler nut? Looks like I need a pipe wrench but then how do you turn it with no room?
 
Took Cookie Monster (My blue 63 Galaxie) out today. First a show at a local fire dept. Then a cruise in. Hot day, but no rain. It was good to reconnect with some old friends.
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g-man said:
Took Cookie Monster (My blue 63 Galaxie) out today. First a show at a local fire dept. Then a cruise in. Hot day, but no rain. It was good to reconnect with some old friends.View attachment 2016343
Click to expand...
I live on 66 and there’s been tons of beautiful shiny chrome driving by today. I asked at the local Ace while I was at the register and it’s some Volvo show.
 
g-man said:
Off to the muffler shop next week. My muffler has a hole, my cat is burned up. Finally nice to let someone else wrestle with this truck. After that I'll work on any exhaust leaks around the egr cooler and egr pipe. Yuck! I may just get the SOR pipe, ferrule and nut...and gasket for the other end. But then again I'm thinking about Jim's EGR delete kit. Just don't know about state inspections though. What size is that huge EGR cooler nut? Looks like I need a pipe wrench but then how do you turn it with no room?
Click to expand...

You may be ok in the Delete.
There is another member here from VA with one and I also have a delete.
His all they ever looked for was the Cat. I have a feeling it will be the same for me.
Mine will be inspected when I return from my trip so we will see.

I picked up a magnaflow cat OEM mounting and got a tail pipe and muffler assembly from @beno when he was still doing parts.
I like the OEM look and it is real nice when everything bolts up to factory mounts.
 
Willard said:
You may be ok in the Delete.
There is another member here from VA with one and I also have a delete.
His all they ever looked for was the Cat. I have a feeling it will be the same for me.
Mine will be inspected when I return from my trip so we will see.

Good to know.
Click to expand...
 
Decided to hold of on the EGR pipe repair until after CMCC. New cat, muffler and exhaust pipe done. Anyone wants to ride along and camp out/trail ride let me know. I am solo and can take one passenger. I'll be leaving noon Wed 7/10 and coming back on Sunday. I can pick you up along the way or meet you there.
 
Ah, the classic drivers side motor mount. Get a new one and drill a hole though it and the mount brackets on the frame and motor, and put a long bolt all the way though. Something like a Grade 8 3/8” or 7/16” will be fine.
Or you can cut the studs off the new mount and drill through there andnuse the existing holes in the engine bracket and frame mount
 
Mark from Metal Tech was one of the sponsors. He flew in from Oregon. At the last minute decided to offer a fly-out trip to Rubithon 2020 at the fund raiser for Gotham City LC and the Jillian fund. The auction was incredible and as I recall went to around 2k but really was probably valued at 4 to 5k.

I was lucky enough to be able to wheel with him at the CMCC event. He got in the passenger seat and we got to lead a green (easy trails) group around the park even though he had never been in the park and me just a few times.

Later at the dinner he handed me a special challenge coin made by metal tech, for my prior military service.
 
cruisermatt said:
Ah, the classic drivers side motor mount. Get a new one and drill a hole though it and the mount brackets on the frame and motor, and put a long bolt all the way though. Something like a Grade 8 3/8” or 7/16” will be fine.
Or you can cut the studs off the new mount and drill through there andnuse the existing holes in the engine bracket and frame mount
Click to expand...
Yeah...been leaking ATF on it from the P.S. pump for a little while and turned the rubber to mush!
 
Other than the broken motor mount , my Reman'd power steering pump decided to quit. Back to Autozone yesterday to order a replacement.

I am thinking I should pull out the EGR/ egr cooler/ egr pipe while I have the power steering pump out and work on my EGR pipe to cooler leak.

Also I'll replace the motor mount insulator while the p.s. pump is out. And I'll be cutting off the last 3 inches off my smashed exhaust pipe.

Engine is running well and no issues with the recently replaced head. The 9 hour round trip drive to and from CMCC in PA went w/out any mechanical problems.
 
Removed the p.s. pump. and took the nuts off the driver's motor mount insulator. Loosened the lower nut on the passenger side motor mount insulator for flex. Here's a pic of how I jacked the engine up with a floor jack and 2x4 board. I don't see the motor rubbing on anything on the other side near the firewall. Looks like this will work.

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