sbman
Supporting Vendor
Dan, does the OBD 1 truck throw a code with the meter unplugged? I think I've had that problem once too, forgot to plug it back in after installing a washer bottle relocation kit.
FZJ80 won't start - help! (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Paul D63
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It did not trigger the light on this truck just now. I plugged it back in and the truck started and ran fine.
- Thread starter
- #63
Thanks Dan. OK, how does it sound when it starts? Mine sounds perfectly normal for those couple of seconds, and I've even had time to rev it, and it sounds sweet & responsive, right up to the point where it cuts, when it does so suddenly and absolutely - no stumbling or petering out, it just dies instantly, as if you'd just cut it.
My understanding with no MAF is that perhaps it would run, but rough, until it dies? Was that your finding?
Also, that still leaves having to explain my code 99, and also the fact that no one so far has been able to detect any discernible signal from my key?
My understanding with no MAF is that perhaps it would run, but rough, until it dies? Was that your finding?
Also, that still leaves having to explain my code 99, and also the fact that no one so far has been able to detect any discernible signal from my key?
- Thread starter
- #64
And to clarify an earlier post - I tested my MAF as per the FSM, and all tested within spec. as far as I could establish. The FSM doesn't say what voltage should be produced by the MAF as air flows through it - it simply says the voltage should fluctuate, and mine did - from 0.6V static through 1.3V cranking and up to 2V at idle when it ran briefly. I did suspect the MAF from an early stage in this process, but ruled it out once it tested OK.
- Thread starter
- #65
Flintknapper - thanks for info on the chip. So I guess that's 100 Series then? But do those keys have the same type of shank as my key pictured in an earlier post? It has strange looking internal cuts, instead of the more usual (over there) traditional type external cuts.
With the sensor unplugged the truck starts normally and then dies after a second or so.
Yes the 98-99 LX470's have the same type key shank (and cut) as what you have pictured, but there are long and short shanks. You wouldn't need to have a new key cut anyway....you might be able to purchase a 4C chip, go through the programming sequence (whatever that is) so your ECU would recognize it. Then tape/zip tie the chip near the ignition and use the key you already have cut. IF that allows you start the vehicle then you can worry about getting a new key made.
A new key can be identified and cut solely from the picture you provided.
- Thread starter
- #69
Thanks Dan. It's a bloody minefield!
By having an assistant insert the key and crank mine the moment I connect the battery after it being disconnected long enough to 'forget' settings, I managed to get it to run for about five seconds, which is longer than I could normally get it to run for. I took this as (admittedly, weak) evidence that I was getting those extra few seconds due to the time the immobiliser ECU was taking to re-boot and reject the key. I can't explain why it would run for longer under those circumstances if it was a MAF fault. Any ideas?
With the MAF unplugged, would yours run long enough for you to rev it a couple of times, and if so, will it rev smoothly and sweetly with the MAF unplugged before it dies? I always thought it wouldn't pick up too cleanly with no MAF?
By having an assistant insert the key and crank mine the moment I connect the battery after it being disconnected long enough to 'forget' settings, I managed to get it to run for about five seconds, which is longer than I could normally get it to run for. I took this as (admittedly, weak) evidence that I was getting those extra few seconds due to the time the immobiliser ECU was taking to re-boot and reject the key. I can't explain why it would run for longer under those circumstances if it was a MAF fault. Any ideas?
With the MAF unplugged, would yours run long enough for you to rev it a couple of times, and if so, will it rev smoothly and sweetly with the MAF unplugged before it dies? I always thought it wouldn't pick up too cleanly with no MAF?
^^^^
Exactly what my '97 does.
sbman
Supporting Vendor
You could try unplugging the maf and see if it will still start/run for five seconds the same or not
Mine doesn't...its a hard start...runs rough then dies within 5 seconds.
This one starts fine and then shuts down.
- Thread starter
- #74
Flintknapper: yes, I see. In fact, with the correct chip, and someone who has the equipment/knowledge to program it, could it even be possible (bearing in mind my existing key appears to be emitting nothing whatsoever) to simply drill a small hole in the original key and just insert the new chip and bond it in there?
Re the running with no MAF - does seem like slightly different symptoms then doesn't it? When mine does start, it fires as soon as the key is turned and runs absolutely as normal until it cuts very suddenly. Doesn't sound rough, splutter, stumble or anything else and will rev cleanly right up to the cut point, at which point it's sudden death.
But as I type this, I see Dan is saying his runs OK! OMG it's a nightmare! Dan, can you expand at all on how yours will run compared to what I've just said mine will do?
Re the running with no MAF - does seem like slightly different symptoms then doesn't it? When mine does start, it fires as soon as the key is turned and runs absolutely as normal until it cuts very suddenly. Doesn't sound rough, splutter, stumble or anything else and will rev cleanly right up to the cut point, at which point it's sudden death.
But as I type this, I see Dan is saying his runs OK! OMG it's a nightmare! Dan, can you expand at all on how yours will run compared to what I've just said mine will do?
sbman
Supporting Vendor
- Thread starter
- #76
Another thing you guys could try for me: I suspect that your trucks will exhibit the same behaviour every time you try to start with no MAF. Is that the case? Whereas mine only starts occasionally, but I either get nothing at all (and I do mean nothing: just cranks with no life signs whatsoever), or I get this perfect running for a few seconds.
sbman: it's after midnight here, so can't try it right now - however, I did try starting it with MAF unplugged when I was running the tests, and I got nothing at all. But that's not really conclusive in my case, as it may simply have been going through one of its 'I'm not going to fire at all' phases couldn't it? Tomorrow, weather permitting, I'll try the battery disconnect trick which, so far, has produced a 100% record of starting and running fine for around five seconds. But this time, I'll have the MAF already unplugged and see if it still runs the same... or at all.
Oh, something else I should add that maybe points more towards the key fault: this is anecdotal, but it seems that it's more likely to start if the key is inserted and cranked immediately. If the key is already in the slot and has been in there for a while, it seems less likely to run. A few times I've removed the key for a minute or two when it wouldn't fire, then quickly re-inserted it and immediately cranked it, and it's then started. I realise this isn't definitive, but just a pointer perhaps?
sbman: it's after midnight here, so can't try it right now - however, I did try starting it with MAF unplugged when I was running the tests, and I got nothing at all. But that's not really conclusive in my case, as it may simply have been going through one of its 'I'm not going to fire at all' phases couldn't it? Tomorrow, weather permitting, I'll try the battery disconnect trick which, so far, has produced a 100% record of starting and running fine for around five seconds. But this time, I'll have the MAF already unplugged and see if it still runs the same... or at all.
Oh, something else I should add that maybe points more towards the key fault: this is anecdotal, but it seems that it's more likely to start if the key is inserted and cranked immediately. If the key is already in the slot and has been in there for a while, it seems less likely to run. A few times I've removed the key for a minute or two when it wouldn't fire, then quickly re-inserted it and immediately cranked it, and it's then started. I realise this isn't definitive, but just a pointer perhaps?
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sbman
Supporting Vendor
The lack of an indicator for the immobilizer is not nice, difficult to know what you are dealing with on an invisible system
- Thread starter
- #78
Amen to that one!
Can you locate and remove the immobilizer, then try to start it?
As I understand from @Dave 2000 , there is no battery in the key, and it is required by law to have an immobilizer.
However, I'm sure you could unplug it and plug the factory harness back together to bypass it for "diagnostic purposes".....
As I understand from @Dave 2000 , there is no battery in the key, and it is required by law to have an immobilizer.
However, I'm sure you could unplug it and plug the factory harness back together to bypass it for "diagnostic purposes".....
- Thread starter
- #80
Surely that wouldn't work would it? If it was simply a case of unplugging it to bypass it, it wouldn't be much of an anti-theft device once that became common knowledge in the fraternity of 'undesirables'.
My understanding is that any attempt to bypass the immobiliser simply results in the ECM shutting down the system. Can anyone confirm? I really wish it was that easy - I'd be more than happy to bypass it if it was a simple operation.
My understanding is that any attempt to bypass the immobiliser simply results in the ECM shutting down the system. Can anyone confirm? I really wish it was that easy - I'd be more than happy to bypass it if it was a simple operation.
