FZJ80 won't start - help! (1 Viewer)

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This is a long shot, and apologies if it's a stupid question: if it is indeed my key that's at fault, as appears to be the case as no one can find evidence of the chip that we know should be readable by the scanners - then if all equipment on the vehicle is OK, couldn't Toyota simply provide me with a new key cut & programmed to my original settings, just based on the VIN?

I'm sure it won't be that simple!
 
The keys are dumb, relatively speaking. They have an antenna that picks up energy from the coil at the lock cylinder that powers a simple circuit in the key that transmits the code. No battery required in the key that way. It's basically a proximity card like is used for building access.
 
OK, got it. Knew it couldn't be that easy.

Thanks for the picture of the ECU - looks like I need to go looking for that and make sure it's accessible before I call the specialist out. Have just been looking online for blank versions of my key, but no luck so far - everything I'm finding doesn't have the correct shank type to take the unusual internal cuts on my key. So I'll be sure to highlight this point with the specialist - as you say, don't want to be paying him for a wasted trip if he doesn't have a suitable blank to work with. The 4C to which you referred in an earlier post is the type of chip in the key I believe - correct?
 
Every imobilizer Toyota I've ever dealt with will not start at all if the key is not recognized. The engine cranks but will not catch. That being said I have not been hands-on with this particular model as they were never over here.
 
Every imobilizer Toyota I've ever dealt with will not start at all if the key is not recognized. The engine cranks but will not catch. That being said I have not been hands-on with this particular model as they were never over here.

That certainly seems like the way it should work, never start at all. Were you aware of any pre 1998 OEM immobilizer used in the u.s. market? I haven't been able to find any.
 
A few months ago mine had a similar issue. It would start and then almost immediately die. It was a self-inflicted wound because I had unplugged the airflow meter to put some dielectric grease on the terminals and I forgot to plug it back in. :doh:

Mine's a 93 but a connection problem in the later airfllow meter may do the same thing.
 
That certainly seems like the way it should work, never start at all. Were you aware of any pre 1998 OEM immobilizer used in the u.s. market? I haven't been able to find any.

98 was the first year for the US market.
 
Well, if that's the case, then it's somewhat worrying. I really don't know if my problem is immobiliser - but surely the fact that no one seems to be able to detect a signal from my key when it should be there kinda points to my key being dud? And I keep coming back to that 99 code that won't go away - must be something immobiliser related going wrong for that to keep coming up surely?
 
Could it be the case that, as you guys didn't get factory immobilisers until '98, you got a somewhat more sophisticated (and faster) system, and the earlier versions we got were perhaps just a little slower to decide they don't like the key - hence the few seconds of running before the immobiliser ECU decides it doesn't like the key and sends the shutdown command to the ECM?
 
The ones I've seen 98+ have a key indicator that flashes and let's you know if the key isn't recognized. I don't know if yours had anything equivalent. Do you have an owners manual that might discuss the anti theft features?
 
I suppose it's possible but we have no way of confirming that operation. The chips in these keys don't Typically "wear out" and the do not have an internal power source.
 
We have a 2006 Venezuelan Autana which is an 80 assembled in that market. It has a transponder key and OBD-1 so it is similar to what you have. I just started it and there is no security key indicator that I saw.
 
We have a 2006 Venezuelan Autana which is an 80 assembled in that market. It has a transponder key and OBD-1 so it is similar to what you have. I just started it and there is no security key indicator that I saw.

I wonder what that vehicle would do if you tried to start it with a plain key. I find it very interesting that Toyota made so many combinations of the 80 in various markets.
 
No - no security key light on mine either.

Dan - your Venezuelan one sounds the same re the fact that it's OBD1 but with a transponder immobiliser. We could test a theory if you wouldn't mind smashing your key to bits until the chip is destroyed, then try starting yours and see if it will run for a couple of seconds before it shuts down.

I can foresee just a tiny little problem with this plan!
 
OK, got it. Knew it couldn't be that easy.

Thanks for the picture of the ECU - looks like I need to go looking for that and make sure it's accessible before I call the specialist out. Have just been looking online for blank versions of my key, but no luck so far - everything I'm finding doesn't have the correct shank type to take the unusual internal cuts on my key. So I'll be sure to highlight this point with the specialist - as you say, don't want to be paying him for a wasted trip if he doesn't have a suitable blank to work with. The 4C to which you referred in an earlier post is the type of chip in the key I believe - correct?

4C chip is the same chip that is the 98-99 Land Cruiser/LX470 and possibly others.
 
No - no security key light on mine either.

Dan - your Venezuelan one sounds the same re the fact that it's OBD1 but with a transponder immobiliser. We could test a theory if you wouldn't mind smashing your key to bits until the chip is destroyed, then try starting yours and see if it will run for a couple of seconds before it shuts down.

I can foresee just a tiny little problem with this plan!

Well I can't do that but I did do something thing else. I unplugged the airflow meter and the truck starts and immediately dies.
20191206_163032.jpg
 
This suggests that you have a problem with the airflow meter or the wiring related to it.
 

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