Fzj80 rear locker issue (1 Viewer)

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NexusD

SILVER Star
Joined
Jul 22, 2005
Threads
23
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267
Location
SF Valley, Cali
Hello all I have a 97 fzj80 with lockers. This past week I had a shop install new exhaust system. The exhaust guy pointed the exhaust tip right at the locker solenoid. Over the past week, stuck in la traffic and driving around town, my locker automatically engaged. Upon inspection I found the cables the vacuum line all to be melted. Now i need help to disengage the locker so I can drive the vehicle and diagnose what might be wrong.

If the mud app lets me I'll post photos

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That was not nice at all. Luckliy it is very easy to disengage the locker. Just get a 9V battery and two jumper cables and give me 5 minutes to go see which contacts to touch to unlock.
 
Well it looks like I threw out the paper that said exactly which pin to put 12V on to unlock. Looking at FSM it appears that you put +9V or +12V to terminal 2 and ground terminal 3. However you do this very quickly. I generally just tap it. Two taps and it should move enough. If you over travel the motor your in for a bigger mess. You'll know you've unlocked it when the continuity is an open circuit on the position switch (Two pin grey thing in your pics above). For the pinout the connector is:
X 2 3
4 5 6
so you can tell which wire is which by locating the vacant slot.
Quickly tap plus voltage to center middle wire and ground the other top wire. The X is the blank spot.
I have to run now but if you can't figure it out someone else is sure to know.
 
Have seen a couple of "custom" exhausts fry the wiring/actuator. Will have to rebuild/replace the harness, then see if the actuator needs work.
 
If you want abcolute confirmation then remove the indicator switch (24mm socket I think) or the 3 bolts holding its mounting plate and you'll see the fork move.
 
Have seen a couple of "custom" exhausts fry the wiring/actuator. Will have to rebuild/replace the harness, then see if the actuator needs work.
Yep I was thinking that but my first order is to disengage the locker so I drive it to the exhaust shop to fix the tail pipe issue.

Does Toyota even make parts for the actuator? Or do I need to buy a whole unit? A friend said to good cable ? Chillcat?
 
I doubt you need the bumps. Just unlock the actuator and then remove all the melted harness wrap and the blue harness tape and see what wires are melted. If it isn't too bad some electrical tape and you are back in business. I doubt there is any more damage than that.

If the instructions above don't work then you can still unlock it but not as easy.

I'm certainly no expert in exhaust exposed locker actuators but if the plastic gear is melted then you need to prepare for something north of $500 for an actuator. They are "rebuild-able" but that usually means you are fixing a corrosion problem or loose magnets or something. There is a sort of kit offered by a vendor on this site but key parts such as gears are not available to my knowledge.

Further to what Tools R Us said above, if you separate the wires first you may find the short and it will unlock itself if you connect it back up?
 
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The only way it could have locked I think is if the indicator lamp wire (one of the gray connector) touched the #3 switch wire. Look into that scenario.
 
Time to go visit the muffler shop with your lawyer!!
the bad part is that i paid cash with no record of him doing the work, plus to top it off this would be the third time that i would be going back. I'm pretty much done with his crappy work. If you'er in the SF valley do not got to Golden Muffler!!! A few people from mud referred me and he works with KnH imports so he knows Land Cruisers. All I can really do is write a bad review on yelp
 
The actuator is switched from the limit switches, so if those wires are shorted (likely) it will do unexpected things. Separating the wires will give an idea of where you are at.
 
I pull the actuator and tried to put a 12v charge like Chris said to do but all I got is a little spark no movement. Do you think the actuator is shorted out? How can I manually disengage the shaft ?

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Wow I can't Believe how simple that design is! I was able to pull the shaft back. Thank you all for the help. I'm going to price out some new parts for this. If it gets to costly I'm going the manual route

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