alaskacruiser said:Arya- see post #4: "And I am not planning on shooting the color and clear coat outside in the driveway. I have built a custom paint booth 30' x 16'."
I'll go stand in my corner now 
FZJ80 overall paint decisions
- Thread starter Imagery
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I'll go stand in my corner now 
FJ809496TLC
80 series addict
If you can't still make up your mind, go with the infamous color! 6M1
tucker74
Moderator
I vote for keeping the stock silver and going a little darker down low and on the flares like they did on some early FJ80s and later CEs.
<Beowulf's CE>
I do like this JDM color as well - more blue-gray ...
Tucker
<Beowulf's CE>
I do like this JDM color as well - more blue-gray ...
Tucker
I'm going to talk with a body shop soon on deleting my roof rack completely. I was thinking on having them paint the roof white. What do you guys think, its Moonglow pearl now. Any Photochoppers out there willing to take a pic of my truck and adding it in so I might see it?
- Thread starter
- #27
Overall paint job
I just finished a long reply post and lost it in my browser. That sucks because it took me about 30 min to write. I guess I will summerize what I wrote. I am going to go with OEM color code but modify the formula. It calls for a fine metalic and I am going to use coarse, and I am going to add a medium flake to the first clear coat and then shoot two more clears just plain. I wanted to use HOK (House of Kolor) but they don't mix colors to paint codes. They just have their own colors and you choose the one you want and there was nothing really that I wanted to use. I am going to go with either BASF, Glasurit or NEXA AutoColor systems. Both will cost about the same and both are made in Europe.After the final clear coat, I am going to spray ArmoeCoat paint protection coating on all the areas that I seem to pick up scratches and dings, like the flares and rockers, particularly on the inside edge of the flares. I found ArmorCoat at Eastwood http://www.eastwood.com, as well as several other products. I will post pictures more as I continue and I will show the booth as well as we fine tune everything.
I tell you this much, as far as the cost for this project, I feel that if you are going to do something like this then do it right or else don't waste your effort. It is not an easy undertaking to say the least. But I had first gone to a high end collision repair shop which is owned by a good friend, and asked him what it would cost to have my cruiser painted. Has said to do it right, like I am doing now, taking all the windows and trim, bumpers, door handles, mirrors and everything else you can emagine, he said it would be about $7,000. I just wanted to see what I would save by doing it myself and so far, I have INVESTED $2,800 and by the time I am done, I will probably will have invested about $3,500 total. So I can do it for about half which is about right. Granted, I did have to buy a couple of spray guns and lucilly I borrower my friends SATA Jet 2000 which is a $600 gun but it lays down material like no other I have ever used. We will use it for base coat and clear only, the others are for primer and details and trim. And the booth cost about $700 in lumber and materials, I had nothing to do the job with, I had to even but a 60 Gal 7hp air compressor so that too is part of my cost. After this is completed, I could paint another one for probably under $1000 using the best paints etc.
I better go for now and hopefully I won't loose this one too. I went back to try and edit my sig line and lost my last reply..
Till next time.
I just finished a long reply post and lost it in my browser. That sucks because it took me about 30 min to write. I guess I will summerize what I wrote. I am going to go with OEM color code but modify the formula. It calls for a fine metalic and I am going to use coarse, and I am going to add a medium flake to the first clear coat and then shoot two more clears just plain. I wanted to use HOK (House of Kolor) but they don't mix colors to paint codes. They just have their own colors and you choose the one you want and there was nothing really that I wanted to use. I am going to go with either BASF, Glasurit or NEXA AutoColor systems. Both will cost about the same and both are made in Europe.After the final clear coat, I am going to spray ArmoeCoat paint protection coating on all the areas that I seem to pick up scratches and dings, like the flares and rockers, particularly on the inside edge of the flares. I found ArmorCoat at Eastwood http://www.eastwood.com, as well as several other products. I will post pictures more as I continue and I will show the booth as well as we fine tune everything.
I tell you this much, as far as the cost for this project, I feel that if you are going to do something like this then do it right or else don't waste your effort. It is not an easy undertaking to say the least. But I had first gone to a high end collision repair shop which is owned by a good friend, and asked him what it would cost to have my cruiser painted. Has said to do it right, like I am doing now, taking all the windows and trim, bumpers, door handles, mirrors and everything else you can emagine, he said it would be about $7,000. I just wanted to see what I would save by doing it myself and so far, I have INVESTED $2,800 and by the time I am done, I will probably will have invested about $3,500 total. So I can do it for about half which is about right. Granted, I did have to buy a couple of spray guns and lucilly I borrower my friends SATA Jet 2000 which is a $600 gun but it lays down material like no other I have ever used. We will use it for base coat and clear only, the others are for primer and details and trim. And the booth cost about $700 in lumber and materials, I had nothing to do the job with, I had to even but a 60 Gal 7hp air compressor so that too is part of my cost. After this is completed, I could paint another one for probably under $1000 using the best paints etc.
I better go for now and hopefully I won't loose this one too. I went back to try and edit my sig line and lost my last reply..
Till next time.
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How are you ventilating the booth? May I recommend a positive air pressure with filtered incoming?
-Spike
-Spike
LOOKING good , can't wait to see the truck ... have you picked a color yet! MY out side sould be done in FEB! the iners have been done since DEC!
- Thread starter
- #30
Booth Ventelation
Yes, I have since the photo installed 4 25" tacky filters midways up at the far end of the booth which will be my clean air intake, and the exhaust will be the opposite end and I will secure that part after I put the cruiser inside. I am going to use a 48" industrial fan with a tacky filter in front to catch paint particals and save the fan blades. We have a doorway cut in the side by the exhaust end for access once the main door is all sealed up.. We will use radiator heaters to bring the temp up to about 70 deg if it should be cooler outside, and we will also of course wet down the floor and walls prior to spraying. I will be wearing a clean air system and my friend helping will wear his own mask and paint suit. I took the back window out lastnight to treat a rust area beneath the weather seal and found that the whole length of the seal area on the bottom had signs of corrosion beneath the paint. I took it all down to metal and found just spots of rust begining. Not sure what is going on there but I checked the back side of this area and there is no rust there. Anyway, I will be pulling the back sliding windows and frame today so I will be able to take care of any problems if i need to as this is a likely place for rust to develop. I noticed that the back window seal had alot of dirt mixed in with the adhesive so that is probably how moistuer entered there. I will post images showing the rust I found.
Yes, I have since the photo installed 4 25" tacky filters midways up at the far end of the booth which will be my clean air intake, and the exhaust will be the opposite end and I will secure that part after I put the cruiser inside. I am going to use a 48" industrial fan with a tacky filter in front to catch paint particals and save the fan blades. We have a doorway cut in the side by the exhaust end for access once the main door is all sealed up.. We will use radiator heaters to bring the temp up to about 70 deg if it should be cooler outside, and we will also of course wet down the floor and walls prior to spraying. I will be wearing a clean air system and my friend helping will wear his own mask and paint suit. I took the back window out lastnight to treat a rust area beneath the weather seal and found that the whole length of the seal area on the bottom had signs of corrosion beneath the paint. I took it all down to metal and found just spots of rust begining. Not sure what is going on there but I checked the back side of this area and there is no rust there. Anyway, I will be pulling the back sliding windows and frame today so I will be able to take care of any problems if i need to as this is a likely place for rust to develop. I noticed that the back window seal had alot of dirt mixed in with the adhesive so that is probably how moistuer entered there. I will post images showing the rust I found.
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- Thread starter
- #31
I am going with a modified version of the factory paint color. I am adding coarse metalic instead of fine and I am adding a medium flake to the first clear coat and then shooting the last two clear coats plain. I am then spraying an Armor Coating on all of the chip prone areas, particularly the flares. Yes I am going back with the flares someone asked earlier. Keep me up on your progress with your paint job as well and good luck. If I can help, let me know.
Someone asked how much it was going to cost and I don't think I said but I inquired about having it done at a friend of mines shop and he said to do it right, ie removing all trim and mouldings and emblems etc, it would be $7000. I am doing a better job than they would because it is my own, and I will have INVESTED about $3500 when I am finished. That includes the $700 spent on the booth, and a 60 Gal, 7hp compressor and a couple of spray guns, one for primer and one detail and trim gun. I was lucky to be able to use my friends SATA JET 2000 HVLP 1.3 for the color and clear coats. Upon starting, I had no maretrials or tools for painting so now after completing this job, I could turn around and do another one just like it for probably under $1000 and do just as good a job. We might look for some other jobs to do while we have the booth before we disassemble everything.
Someone asked how much it was going to cost and I don't think I said but I inquired about having it done at a friend of mines shop and he said to do it right, ie removing all trim and mouldings and emblems etc, it would be $7000. I am doing a better job than they would because it is my own, and I will have INVESTED about $3500 when I am finished. That includes the $700 spent on the booth, and a 60 Gal, 7hp compressor and a couple of spray guns, one for primer and one detail and trim gun. I was lucky to be able to use my friends SATA JET 2000 HVLP 1.3 for the color and clear coats. Upon starting, I had no maretrials or tools for painting so now after completing this job, I could turn around and do another one just like it for probably under $1000 and do just as good a job. We might look for some other jobs to do while we have the booth before we disassemble everything.
So, you will have a negative pressure setup. The drawback to that is the booth acts like a giant vacuum, sucking in dust through any hole or crack in the structure. Plan on wetting the landscape around the booth thoroughly prior to and during spraying.
-Spike
-Spike
I just want to say that you are my hero. My significant other is whining about me wanting to repair my wrecked 40th Ann. in the garage, and you are building a paint booth behind your house. I showed her this thread so she could see that I am not as far gone as others. Good work for undertaking this project. Are you anywhere near Texas?
- Thread starter
- #34
Yea I guess you are right. I did think we would need to wet the outside surroundings or perhaps do it on a rainy day. How could I achieve a positive pressure setup with what I have? I am not sure what you are talking about. I would be interested in doing as you suggest so please tell me how I can do it.-Spike- said:
Thanks
- Thread starter
- #35
paint
Yes I am in Beaumont, Texas, 90 miles east of Houston. Where are you located?
Yes I am in Beaumont, Texas, 90 miles east of Houston. Where are you located?
Imagery said:
The simple explanation is that you would point your fan in. This pressurizes the booth, so that air leaks outwards, limiting the places dust can get in. Then you only have to filter the air going to the fan. While this takes a little work, it's a lot easier to filter the air coming in then to make absolutely sure every tiny crack is sealed.
The more difficult issue is turbulence. If you point one fan into the booth at one end, it creates a couple of problems. It's difficult to spray paint in a hurricane, which is what you'll have near the fan. The fast-moving air will pick up any dust particles and shoot them straight into your paint. The paint will dry faster in the airflow. The best way to avoid these issues is to have multiple air entrances, either multiple small fans or ductwork that diffuses the airflow around the whole booth. The best booths, IMHO, are 'downdraft', which means the air enters the booth from the ceiling and exits near the floor. This forces overspray and dust to the floor instead of swirling it around the booth.
Some of these issues are also a problem with negative pressure setups, so if you intend to continue that way, take care to place your intakes and exhausts where the turbulence factor will be limited. For example, in professional negative pressure booths, the incoming air filters cover one entire end of the booth, same for the exhaust, to limit fast-moving air.
I don't know how much of this info you can use, but at least knowing it might help you get the best job you can from what you have. It looks like you are going to extremes on the prep and paint, which is the only reason I mentioned any of this. Many people paint cars (even professional shops do piecework) outside with no booth, and just color sand the clear coat to remove dust particles. You WILL get some dust in the paint, I've never seen a paint job in any booth without some dust.
-Spike
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Imagery said:
Most (if not all) paints have a limit on the amount of humidity they can tolerate, and don't react well to being sprayed on rainy days. One major problem is a cloudy effect in the clear coat. Check the directions.
-Spike
Imagery said:
Close enough that you'll wish you lived farther away.
I am in Cypress...transplant from DFW. Check your PM.
Jim
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How's it going?
My clear coat is coming off now too on my hood and fender flares. I just found this post and was wondering what the end result was. If I were to pay to get this paint job done how much might it cost? Also how many layers are you putting on of clear coat when done?
BTW - as far as a color goes, I like the new silver color on the upcoming FJ Cruisers and the Dark Red on the new LC's.
My clear coat is coming off now too on my hood and fender flares. I just found this post and was wondering what the end result was. If I were to pay to get this paint job done how much might it cost? Also how many layers are you putting on of clear coat when done?
BTW - as far as a color goes, I like the new silver color on the upcoming FJ Cruisers and the Dark Red on the new LC's.
Waggoner5
SILVER Star
Get him Jim.
