Fzj rear diff lock actuator housing

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I posted this in my thread about reviving my wife's 80, but does anyone know of a source for the locker actuator housing for the rear axle on an 80?

This is from 20 years of Midwest corrosion and 250k of no use before we bought the truck.
I fabbed a block off plate at work to get by until I can find parts.
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Nobody offers just the housing, you have to buy a whole locker actuator. You might be able to buy from an Aisin parts distributor than a dealer, but don't quote me on that.
 
Alternately, will an ARB fit into an e-locker rear chunk?

I have factory diff locks but it seems that what is going on in this thread is inevitable eventually.. halfway considering my options for the distant future..
 
That's not corrosion, it's caused by a floating/loose ground, that's flowing through your actuator, called electrolysis, same thing happened to my 95, cracked like that, but was able to fab a crazy bracket to hold it in using the 2 existing ears and a bracket that tied the top to one of the 3rd member bolts...

Along the same lines, would an Aussie be able to be installed in a factory locked 3rd?
 
If the rest of that actuator is still working, how about bolting back the main section, use some longer shank bolts and add a plate stacked over the stub piece that catches the floating portion & compresses it, sort of like staggered bricks in a brick wall.

At least it looks like there's a little lip of the old housing you could catch, at the very worst you carve a area with the dremel/ 4.5" grinder so that would work.
 
That's not corrosion, it's caused by a floating/loose ground, that's flowing through your actuator, called electrolysis, same thing happened to my 95, cracked like that, but was able to fab a crazy bracket to hold it in using the 2 existing ears and a bracket that tied the top to one of the 3rd member bolts...

Along the same lines, would an Aussie be able to be installed in a factory locked 3rd?
 
Evilone, you sir are correct, i just got off the phone with Toyota and the new part number is 41450-60042, the current discounted price is $706.62. Now for the bad news, if anyone wants or needs this new actuator they better buy it now. The counter man told me this afternoon 11/13/15 that there is only one left in the country at a Toyota parts depot, and when it's sold Toyota is going to discontinue this part.
 
The counter man told me this afternoon 11/13/15 that there is only one left in the country at a Toyota parts depot
Correct information.

and when it's sold Toyota is going to discontinue this part.

Not necessarily correct. There is indeed "one left" but that does not mean there are no more in Japan. The inventory class is "E". Class "F" usually indicates impending discontinuation.
 
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Dan you may be right, but so far when he has told me that Toyota was going to discontinue a parting, he has been right. Now if Toyota still has stock in Japan, how would a customer in America go about ordering one of those parts from Japan?
 
An order would still process through TMS USA. The backorder would ship from Japan To Ontario CA and then on to the ordering dealer.

There is a good chance that Ontario only keeps one of such an expensive and slow-moving item on hand. When that one goes they order a replacement.

This kinda ends up being a game of chicken where you order it thinking you are getting the Last Mohican only to find out another one is coming in from Japan. On the other hand maybe it could discontinue. Until that Ontario on hand drops to zero it is a secret......:)
 
If it was a boat sticking a zinc/pot aluminum chunk on my locker would seem the right thing to do (multiple people saying electrolysis) - no clue what to do to avoid an issue with this - anybody?

And to cherry top this, Dan has use the word we all hate - discontinue.

Who here has a idea to defeat/decrease the electrolysis - is there any band-aids?
 
Linus, if you do a search there are threads on Mud about systems you can install on your truck to stop electrolysis. Those threads deal with stopping rust, but the process used to stop rust is the same as to stop corrosion on aluminum.
 
My boat has specialized sacrificial anodes on the gimble ring and lower drive housing for this exact reason.
 

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