- Thread starter
- #41
Soldering as well
Fusible links are dead - long live this replacement kit (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter CruiserTrash
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Excellent!
- Thread starter
- #43
Glamour shot of the assembly.
Had two orders for local pickup and four more already boxed up and shipping out tomorrow, two are coming with me to Solid Axle Summit to be raffled off, and the rest of the preorders will go out as soon as I get back.
Production has begun, give me all your orders.
Not many better feelings than using nice tools!
check out some data on that, there is conflicting evidence on it. In my real world job, crimping and soldering is a no no especially on aerospace and space grade parts
I've found with my experience (granted space is an entirely different beast so I can't speak to that application), a good crimp makes for a mechanical connection, and soldering helps make a long-lasting electrical connection, IF done right. Every connection I create or modify in my 62 gets crimped and soldered. I'd be curious in what environment doing the two together wouldn't be recommended.
The risk is that the solder not only wicks into the crimp, but also behind it into the wire, where the rigid solder to flexible wire interface is unsupported (I think).
its hard or impossible to find solder contacts for D38999 connectors for a reason I assume
- Thread starter
- #48
Solder isn’t used much in vehicles due to vibration issues. I find that it corrodes less than bare 40 year old copper, so that’s an advantage. The ring terminals I’m using offer support on the insulated portion of the wire and I do not give the connection enough solder to flow there. So the rigidity stops prior to the second [insulation] crimp. Plenty of area for the connection to flex back there and not deliver the vibrational load to the solder - or not as much anyway.
For an extra fee I’ll leave out the solder if you order one!
For an extra fee I’ll leave out the solder if you order one!
Oh lord, fawkin cannon plugs LOL. Way too many memories of having to mess with those all over the KC-135.
The principle of strain relief makes sense, if you have unsupported wires that could be constantly shifting and eventually fray to the point of breakage. Not something you want to have happen in a modern fly by wire aircraft or in space travel.
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- Thread starter
- #50
Still available! I'm continuing to make these in batches all the time. 90% of the time I have them in stock, and if you order when I'm out of stock the lead time is usually 2-4 days before I ship.
Cruiser Trash Parts
Cruiser Trash Parts
Hopefully my budget will allow me to get one once you have an FJ62 setup finalized.
I think I missed the boat on the billet rear seat latches that another Mudder had done up
I think I missed the boat on the billet rear seat latches that another Mudder had done up
- Thread starter
- #52
I need to get back on the 62 FLRK. I've been so friggin' busy lately I haven't had time to sit down in front of the CAD program on my computer.Hopefully my budget will allow me to get one once you have an FJ62 setup finalized.
I think I missed the boat on the billet rear seat latches that another Mudder had done up
And yeah, those latches were nice. I kind of wished mine were bad so I could have ordered a set, but the ones I have are pretty dang clean.
Mine are still in good shape too, but the way my luck goes, once there's no chance of replacement anymore, one will break
On the subject of FL replacements and upgraded wiring, I still haven't had the chance to dig into my harness and find where the OEM supply wire connects to the fuse block to see if there's a viable upgrade that can be done for power distribution. Still very curious to see what could be done on that front and if it would make any difference electrically with certain functions (windows, locks, defogger, fan, etc.).
- Thread starter
- #55
On 60s the positive voltage feed for the cabin fuse panel is a splice (yes, from the factory), on the alternator charge wire. It’s under the harness wrap between the fusible link and the B+ post on the back of the alt. Maybe the same for a 62?Mine are still in good shape too, but the way my luck goes, once there's no chance of replacement anymore, one will break
On the subject of FL replacements and upgraded wiring, I still haven't had the chance to dig into my harness and find where the OEM supply wire connects to the fuse block to see if there's a viable upgrade that can be done for power distribution. Still very curious to see what could be done on that front and if it would make any difference electrically with certain functions (windows, locks, defogger, fan, etc.).
That would make sense if it were the case for the 62 as well. That end would be easy to remove and replace with the next gauge up of wire; then you'd have the chore of opening up the loom to remove the original wire, put the new wire in and close up the loom again. Having not dove in deep behind the fuse box, I wonder how the factory wire is connected to the box. If it's a matter of just a terminal crimped into place or a ring terminal secured to a distribution terminal on the fuse box, that would make upgrading the power lead relatively easy.
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- #57
You know, it’s been a while since I was in there - I can’t recall!
I might have to do some digging!
Add me to the list of people interested in a fusible link replacement for the 62. Hope one comes out soon.
- Thread starter
- #60
Going to be pushing more on that this weekend as a matter of fact. It's difficult when I don't own a 62 - I have to arrange visits with a few people in town that I know who own them.
