Fusible links are dead - long live this replacement kit (1 Viewer)

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Excellent looking work. Are you only crimping the terminals onto the wires or are you soldering too?
Soldering as well
 
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Glamour shot of the assembly.

Had two orders for local pickup and four more already boxed up and shipping out tomorrow, two are coming with me to Solid Axle Summit to be raffled off, and the rest of the preorders will go out as soon as I get back.

Production has begun, give me all your orders.
 
Batch building several of these today before I leave for Solid Axle Summit tomorrow. Several are promised to pre-orders and two will be coming with me for entry into the Wednesday night raffle at SAS. @Spike Strip this should give you a better idea of how they go together with the upgraded alternator charge wire, and it should give everybody a better sense of general construction.

What comes in the box?
The Fuse panel & harness assembly, with the pertinent word being assembly (remember this is plug & play)
A bag with the bracket and hardware
Detailed instructions

The zip ties are simply for ease of packaging:
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As you can see I have not crimped the eyelets onto the smaller wires here yet, that's kind of the final step left to go.
View attachment 3384898

I've been using an Iwiss crimper for the 6awg large cables and this wonderful Hozan unit for crimping the smaller wires. The Iwiss works great but the Hozan is a really nice piece of kit. Glad I bought it.
View attachment 3384900
Not many better feelings than using nice tools!
 
check out some data on that, there is conflicting evidence on it. In my real world job, crimping and soldering is a no no especially on aerospace and space grade parts
I've found with my experience (granted space is an entirely different beast so I can't speak to that application), a good crimp makes for a mechanical connection, and soldering helps make a long-lasting electrical connection, IF done right. Every connection I create or modify in my 62 gets crimped and soldered. I'd be curious in what environment doing the two together wouldn't be recommended.
 
I've found with my experience (granted space is an entirely different beast so I can't speak to that application), a good crimp makes for a mechanical connection, and soldering helps make a long-lasting electrical connection, IF done right. Every connection I create or modify in my 62 gets crimped and soldered.
The risk is that the solder not only wicks into the crimp, but also behind it into the wire, where the rigid solder to flexible wire interface is unsupported (I think).

its hard or impossible to find solder contacts for D38999 connectors for a reason I assume
 
Solder isn’t used much in vehicles due to vibration issues. I find that it corrodes less than bare 40 year old copper, so that’s an advantage. The ring terminals I’m using offer support on the insulated portion of the wire and I do not give the connection enough solder to flow there. So the rigidity stops prior to the second [insulation] crimp. Plenty of area for the connection to flex back there and not deliver the vibrational load to the solder - or not as much anyway.

For an extra fee I’ll leave out the solder if you order one! 🤣
 
The risk is that the solder not only wicks into the crimp, but also behind it into the wire, where the rigid solder to flexible wire interface is unsupported (I think).

its hard or impossible to find solder contacts for D38999 connectors for a reason I assume
Oh lord, fawkin cannon plugs LOL. Way too many memories of having to mess with those all over the 135.

The principle of strain relief makes sense, if you have unsupported wires that could be constantly shifting and eventually fray to the point of breakage. Not something you want to have happen in a modern fly by wire aircraft or in space travel.
 

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