Fusible Link Wire Ratings?

[Randy88FJ62]

I cannot find the rating of the fusible link wires in the FSM. I see three wires; two are labeled 0.5G and one is 1.0Y. The G and Y represent green and yellow connectors but that doesn’t help me. Where can I find the ratings for these two types of fusible link wires?

My goal is to replace the fusible link with cartridge fuses. I go to the junk yards a lot and cartridge fuses are a dime a dozen and super cheap. I hate replacing the whole fusible link when only one of the connections has been burnt. Using individual cartridge fuses also has the benefit of allowing me to visually see which circuit is the culprit immediately.

Anyone see a reason why I should not do this?

 

[FJ60Seth]

I don't know if there's a reason not use a fuse, but the fusible link wire is available in auto parts stores.

 

[sl33py]

good thread on the links themselves w/ gauges. I think if you cross reference this with their rating you should have an idea on what amps you need per circuit.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-wagons/258630-fusible-link-question.html

GL!

 

[sl33py]

Also - i'm no expert, but saw this and may be why you shouldn't replace FL:

The main reason you do not want to replace a FL with a circuit breaker or fuse is very simple. Safety. FL are designed to prevent fires caused by battery short.. .Very High current potential. Rhe deal is wgen there is a high current short the likelyhood of sustained ionization (arching) is much higher than for the typical low curent circuit.

Circuit breakers and fuses are not physicaly larger enough to prevent internal arching. The arch in this situation is capable of carrying high current. Hence the circuit is not fully opend fast enough. ... The result is a potential fire and having your battery cables welded to the frame.

FL's are longer and extinguish the arching much faster reducing the potential of fire. Also the arching that does exist in the length of the FL is longer and hence of higher resistence which reduces the current dramically even before the circuit is opened fully.

This topic seems to come up every couple of months and the physics still has not changed.

Steve

HTH and GL!

 

[ntsqd]

I asked the fuses question some time ago. One response was that fusible links 'blow' much slower than do fuses, allowing for normal surges w/o popping. Like the in-rush current to the starter solenoid windings. If you can buy a "Slo-Blo" version of the fuse type that you're considering I don't see why you couldn't replace the links with fuses.

I found the wire sizes vs. current capacity for fusible wire either here or on the net. I thought that I'd saved it, but I can't find it or a bookmark to it. There is an RoT for determining which size fusible to use on a given circuit or wires, but my memory of it is too fuzzy to repeat it.

 

[Dynosoar]

Fusible link is not rated in amps. They are measured in sq. mm. SAE standards call for fusible links in the starting system. Maxi fuses are a poor replacement. The OEM link lasted 20+ years and a replacement should be serviceable for the same amount of time. I wanted to do the same "upgrade" so I have searched everywhere for an AMPs to sq. mm. conversion and could not find one so I just went with the OEM link.

Dynosoar

 

[sl33py]

in my 3 trucks to date i've blown one FL - and it was my fault. I bought two, and have a spare in the glovebox. not cheap, but cheap insurance (vs being stuck somewhere).

with the above I'd stick w/ new FL and a spare if you're paranoid like me.

GL!

 

[Spike Strip]

Fusible Links

 

[Elbert]

the links are not that expensive... They are a known safety device and they work I would replace in kind. I let the smoke out of mine one time.....when I was studying for my EE .... anyway I bought two spares.

Some things are better left alone... you have one hell of a dead short to ground if the fuseable link "smokes".... I screwed mine when trying some different alt wiring solutions with a V-8 swap. I would generally suspect that you would have an issue with your starter, alternator or the wiring feeding either one.

 

[augirthedude]

I am a low voltage controls electrician at a ski area. Low voltage systems on ski lifts are very much like an electrical system in automobiles. The main 24vdc buss on some lifts uses a standard automotive glass Slow blow30 amp fuse . On my land cruiser my fusible links have deteriorated over the years and have replaced them with DIN mounted fuse holders .red wire is wired with a 20 amp slow blow fuse ,white wire has a 30 amp slow blow fuse, black wire has a 20 amp slow blow. I also have a fuse holder for the spot lights and one for the stereo system. I wired these in a few years ago after having repeated problems with the fusible link plug connectors. I did a power/ current survey (using a DC amp probe) with all the accesories on and sized the fuses accordingly using 20 percent over the maximum current showed in the Power/current survey. I have had NO trouble whatsoever and can purchase these fuses at any electrical supply store or sub in a standard automotive glass fuse in a pinch and replacment is a breeze if it blows ( which it has not yet), The fusible link plug arangement is a definate weak link in the landcruiser wiring IMO

 

[gfoz]

The never ending debate! The one disadvantage of the FL for me is sometimes it is hard to tell quickly if they are broken, especially in the dark. Maxi Fuses and Circuit Breakers are fussy about water intrusion, so that could be a potential problem on a LandCruiser. One auto electric guy I talked to said that of all the harnesses he has dealt with he has never seen a badly damaged one where FL were used but he had seen varying levels of damage (from none to major) where circuit breakers or maxis were used.

If you do use FL make sure you place them as close to the power source as possible and they are two gauge sizes higher than the wire it is installed on (10 gauge wire uses 14 gauge FL)

fusable links

 

[elripster]

If you want to swap for a fuse, you just need to select the correct fuse for your wire gauge and load. There are lots of fuses out there, just chose one for an automotive application that you would buy at your autoparts store.

Here is one of many guides.

How to Determine the Fuse/Wire Size for YOUR Project

Frank

 

[ntsqd]

Normally selecting a fuse would be that easy, but FL's are designed to allow short term over-loads (coil in-rush currents, etc.) that would blow a fuse of comparable and correct amperage. To properly replace an FL with a fuse will require a "Slo-Blow" fuse. AFAIK that's not a typical auto parts store part, Luigi down at the local VatoZone is not going to be able to help you with that.

 

[edbeach]

I've read many, many posts about fusible links and their make up, ratings, uses, etc., etc. but all I want to know is a site where I can order one for my 1987 FJ60. Please.

 

[Spike Strip]

Jebus Krist, buddy - It's a Toyota part. I guess you gotta go to the Ford dealer.

Let me google that for you

Pick one and put in the part # and buy it - but as I told you in an above post look for BENO - Call him at American Toyota and order one. Even a Caveman could do it.

I did it for you 'cuz you said please.

His name is Onur (BENO)
Parts Department
American Toyota
505.998.0264
oazeri@americantoyota.com