Fusible Link Question???

[scottcb]

Please see attached images. Are these fusible links - the 3 small wires between the green and creme connections? I have not been able to find clear info on fusible links. I'm no electrician nor mechanic so this is new. My problem is that when I attempt to install the new battery, the cable starts to spark when it hits the terminal. Everything is turned off and the I'm putting them on the in the right order. Starter is good.

One of the fusible links is fried as you can see in the image. Would this be causing my problem? Where can I get replacements? How do I replace them? Is there anything else I should check for?

This is for a 1985 US FJ60
Thanks so much.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Fusable links are like slow blow fuses. They are there to protect your wiring harness in the event of a short before the fuse panel. You have a short in one of your circuits-a wire touching bare metal. When you touch the battery terminal down, it's drawing more current thant the fusable link can carry, so it blew one of the links and prevented you from burning down your truck.

Getting a new set of links is easy--Toyota carries them for $14-20. If you simply swap in new links, you'll blow the new one if you don't fix the short first. Get out your volt meter and start chasing down the problem.

You can eliminate the starter as the cause--the wire to the starter is not fused at all, its a direct solid connection to the battery.

Good luck.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Yup, find and fix the short (the reason the FL is blown or getting there) and then replace the FL. Do a visual inspection of the wiring, and if you can't see or feel the problem area, it's time for some quality time with a multimeter set to continuity. (Gotta use continuity, remember, as you can't energize the circuits. ) Look at all the underhood circuits using a methodical, systematic approach.

 

[RredFJ40]

I know this seems like a no brainer but I speak from experience. Are you sure you've got the positive cable going to the positive post?

Now to defend my honor, it was dark, the battery was dead and I hadn't had the truck long. Caught a ride to wallyworld and back with the new battery. The PO had installed the wrong group size battery and the posts were switched. I just dropped in the new battery (correctly) but the wiring was swapped. Hooked it up and smoked my fusible links. That was a dandy night!

 

[D'Animal]

If RredFJ40 suggestion is not the answer.


What did you do between the time you removed the old battery and install the new? Did you move any wiring, install a sterio, etc?

 

[rchalmers3]

scottcb,

Questions: How heavy is the arching when you apply the cable to the battery post? Is the driver door closed and the key off when you are applying the cable? Is your radio wired through the accessory position of the key?

If it's a small arc then it may not be an issue. There is a small initial draw and constant load on the battery that is normal.

If the fusible links were blown there would be no sparks when the cable was applied, so don't go buying stuff until you know what is what.

If you had experience and a voltage meter, you could do a quick test by measuring accross the positive battery post to the disconnected cable. The test is a quick way to measure demand.

If the arching is heavy and likely to heat a cable or melt lead, then by all means hand the task over to someone who can diagnose the source of the problem!

Rick

 

[Wile E Coyote]

scottcb,

1. If the fusible links were blown there would be no sparks when the cable was applied, so don't go buying stuff until you know what is what.

2. If you had experience and a voltage meter, you could do a quick test by measuring accross the positive battery post to the disconnected cable. The test is a quick way to measure demand.

Rick

1. Did you look at the posted pic of the FL? Regardless, it needs replaced even if not the source of the current troubles. Also, at least one circuit bypasses the FL's entirely, (starter), so not entirely valid. Not Toy specific, but often hazards are direct-to-batt connections, as well.

2. This is a great test, but note that most hobbyist-grade multimeters are good for about 10 amps of current testing, and that's with 10 seconds use and 10 mins of rest.

 

[rchalmers3]

1. Did you look at the posted pic of the FL? Regardless, it needs replaced even if not the source of the current troubles. Also, at least one circuit bypasses the FL's entirely, (starter), so not entirely valid. Not Toy specific, but often hazards are direct-to-batt connections, as well.

Don Coyote,
Yes I saw the pinched insulation exposing the fusible link conductor. IMO the link insulation can be repaired and used for years to come. I would replace the link if it's corroded or blown. As for non fused circuits, see below.


2. This is a great test, but note that most hobbyist-grade multimeters are good for about 10 amps of current testing, and that's with 10 seconds use and 10 mins of rest.

Did you read my post? (Sorry, coulden't resist!) I recommended a quick, comprehensive and safe voltage measurement, not an amp test. The meter is connected in series with the positive cable connection. By using a voltage meter, it's possible to measure the draw on the battery. I use 6v as a threshold. Any measurement over 6v means there's probably current paths that are not proper and need to be identified. The measurement will vary with the complexity of the vehicle, thus it's not specific. But it works for me when I'm sussing electrical issues.
And I agree, amp measurements are better performed with a proper meter and inductive probes.

Rick

 

[scottcb]

Thanks for the feedback. Everything is off as far as I can tell. When I got to connect the second terminal that is when a little sparking starts. I left it on a little too long and the FL in the pic. above fried and smoked. Next step is to start hunting down the problem. I'll take any suggestions.

On another note I see you are in Costa Rica. I lived there from 1993-95 and have been back for vacations. Love the place. I look forward going back soon. I lived all over, San Jose, Cartago, Guanacaste (Santa Cruz), Guapiles. Costa Rica is where I fell in love with old cruisers and land rovers. I love the Cruiser taxis down there with the diesels.

 

[rchalmers3]

Scottcb,

My bad, I didn't pick on your first post that the FL was "toast". I saw the word fried but it didn't register. I promise to read more slowly next time.

As for hunting problems, you will need to "divide and conquer" all possible draws on the battery. The starter, headlights and alternator are big users/producers of current.

You will need to replace the fried link for the following suggestions.

The alternator is a biggie and most likely your problem. Remove and isolate the large wire lead on the alternator and perform a "flash" test of connecting the battery cable. If you see no big spark when connecting the clamp you have identified the culprit!

Don't leave the cable on too long or it's back to square one!

If you find the problem is elsewhere, you can remove one fuse at a time and flash test the battery connection to try and isolate the short.

My wife and I live out on the coast about 1 1/2 hours from either Santa Cruz or Nicoya, given the current road and river conditions!. What were you doing here?


Rick

 

[scottcb]

Rick,

I served a mission for the LDS church. I loved every day of it. CR is like a second home to me. Are you near Playa Samara? That area is beautiful. How did you end of down there.

As for the FJ. I disconnected the alternator and did the flash test. Nothing changed. I disconnected the starter and same experience. I'll try the fuse isolation test next. THanks for the info. I just picked up this cruiser and really want to get it going. The people that had it before me had it stall out about 6 months ago, never fixed it and now it is mine. Everything else is in very good working condition, I just can't get it started. I'll let you know if I have success.

Thanks,

 

[rchalmers3]

Scottcb,

If the fuse by fuse technique dosen't find you a solution, look at where the cables attach to the posivite battery post clamp. You may be able to further divide the possiblities there for isolating the excessive draw.

You can also eliminate the ignition switch by disconnecting the connector at the steering column.

I'm giving you hunt and seek suggestions, which is not ideal, but hang in there, we will find the problem.

A quality wiring diagram would give you information on what is protected by the fuse link that smoked. That info would be handy as we eliminate possibilities!

I'm in Playa Nosara, 30 minutes north of Samara. Moved here for fun and to live something different!

Rick

 

[scottcb]

I really appreciate the help. With the blown FL I hooked up the battery. No sparking, that makes sense. I put the key in the ignition and some lights came on, seatbelt, brake, wipers worked, horn worked, headlights worked, 4wd light worked, choke light worked, fuel guage moved up. For kicks I tried to turn it over, just made a click and everything went dead. Unhooked the battery, rehooked it and lights came back. My next step will be to replace the fried FL. It is the red wire in between the two plastic connector pieces. I'm not sure how to change out the FL. Is it just the wire they sell? Do the plastic housings open up? Tomorrow I'll take the part into the store and see what they can do as well. From the Haynes book it looks like that FL connects to the Alternator, votage regulator, heater, brake lights, headlight cleaner motor, interior dome.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

A draw large enough to fry an FL in a short few moments is undoubtedly a 12v load, wouldn't you agree? Then perhaps you'll see why I went straight for the current measurement. I admittedly wasn't clear why I bypassed your method above (which I too have posted here on Mud). So I'll give ya that one, but lighten up, eh. I'm not takin pot-shots at your suggestions.
Actually, you've helped validate my own use and advocation of the voltage leak test you posted. I've had so few others agree that this method was an accurate test for a slow battery drain. So much so, that I've just been jumping straight to the amperage test, in a effort to lessen the debates.

Have a cold one, and let's help get this guys new rig on the road.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

Ah, Scott, I was just thinkin about posting this, and now you've lead me to your problem. I need help naming the problem part (idle-up solenoid, I think...help me guys, I'm a 62 driver) This is why the truck died on the PO, and this is why your FL fried now. Generally speaking, It's a solenoid on the carb that's pooped the bed...this is where I'm gonna hang my hat. Any 60-specific knowledged folks think I'm off here? I know usually the symptoms are that the truck will only run at higher rpm's but in this case???

Edit: If I am wrong, then perhaps lets look at the coil/ignitor and circuit?



I understand that the new FL from Toy will be the actual fusible link wires with the connectors installed. It's a 1 minute fix.

 

[rchalmers3]

From the Haynes book it looks like that FL connects to the Alternator, votage regulator, heater, brake lights, headlight cleaner motor, interior dome.

I still think the alternator and/or charge circuit are the culprits. The charge lamp circuit is fused, but the power feed to the alt is a 10ga feed, capable of passing more current than the link can handle. It would be possible to have a short at say, the diode trio in the alternator that would barely warm the feed wire but blow the links.

Maybe my suggestion to remove only the large main power feed at the alt was insufficient to isolate the alternator. Scottcb, maybe when you get the new FL you can redo the test of isolating the alternator and see if theres still a problem.

The other items you mention are switched/fused circuits. They will be easy to eliminate by removing the fuses for each specific circuit and observe the sparking at the battery when the post clamp is connected.

Wile E Coyote, hey man, we are good. I see from this interaction that I don't read things completely and jump to conclusions. for your contributions and working together.

Rick

 

[scottcb]

Need to find FL

Called Toyota and they said they don't sell them anymore. She is looking for the part at another Toyota location. Any other ideas as to where to buy onlline? Once I get it I will report back on the next attempts.

 

[Cruiserdrew]

Called Toyota and they said they don't sell them anymore. She is looking for the part at another Toyota location. Any other ideas as to where to buy onlline? Once I get it I will report back on the next attempts.

I bought one from Cruiserdan at American Toyota in NM.

You need part # 90982-08135

I'm holding one in my hand right this moment, so they for sure exist in the system. Buy 2.

 

[Wile E Coyote]

I'll 2nd Cdan for most anything OEM Toy here in the US.
Get the replacement FL in hand, and also fix the present one for a trail spare.

If you don't know, you can buy fusible link wire in bulk rolls, or less commonly in 6" sections. Get the appropriately sized FL wire, and splice it into the connector for a trail spare. IIRC, the FL should be 4 sizes smaller than the wire it's protecting. I'd still like to see you do some continuity testing on a few underhood circuits before potentially frying a brand new FL.

Rick, no worries man. A reread made me see how I started out sounding confrontational. The underlying sentiment gets muddied easily over the www.

Enough o that now, folks are gonna tell us to get a room. hehe

 

[scottcb]

Saga Continues - Found Random unconnected wire

I left a message for CDan for the FL part. He is at a convention until Saturday.

On another note, I started tracing wires. I checked for secure connections. When I was over by the carb checking the connection there I found a single loose wire hanging down, going nowhere, resting on the frame (see pictures of wire).

I followed it backwards. A bundle of wires leads from the truck, diriver side, into the engine compartment. It splits off and that split goes to the brake fluid resovior. Just beyond the split to the brake fluid it splits off two wires to a connection that connects to the carb. At that point 1 black wire leads to the green connection (see picture) and coming out of it is a random, single white wire that leads nowhere. I can't figure out what it connects to, but the wire is exposed and was touching the frame when I discovered it.

Could that be the short? And, any ideas what it leads to? Thanks to all for the help, I feel like I am making progress.