Fusible link performance over time (1 Viewer)

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Joined
May 6, 2011
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Location
Box Elder County, UT
All,

I'm cringing at myself for starting a thread about fusible links with how much they are discussed, but here we are. I'm mostly looking for people's real world experiences with replacing the FL as PM, ie, you weren't trying to correct a problem when you replaced them...did you notice any difference?

I ask because I have 308k miles on the original FL, and have zero issues with mine (that I know of. it seems like my battery, a hand me down from a sedan, is slightly on the weak side compared to my other 80 with a brand new properly sized battery...no surprise there). I get that it's a ticking time bomb and I have a new one on the way that I'll be keeping on the truck for obvious reasons. I'm not bothered by the fact that I may end up replacing it on the side of the road in the rain. I know I can replace it now and keep my old one as the spare. At this point I'm just interested in how long it can last, let's say for science's sake and to maybe play devil's advocate around the fearmongering around this topic*. That is, of course, assuming I'm not already experiencing issues like voltage drop that are happening so gradually I don't know. Hence, my question.

*the fearmongering, if you call it that, is rooted in a lot of truth. You should get a spare or have some sort of contingency plan if you don't already. up til now I've had a little roll of fusible link wire I carry with my emergency set.

More food for thought: other than my dad crossing the jumper cables ~15 years ago it's lived a pretty nominal life. I have auxiliary circuts (lights, etc) but they typically run directly off the battery. I also found an old thread with this interesting comment that's relevant enough I thought I'd toss in.
I've routinely get a code for a coolant temp sensor, occasionally a code for an intake temp sensor, and a code for the O² sensor after the cat. The O² sensor, will likely require tricking the computer. I've got headers and aftermarket exhaust.

Also have an issue with some rough running shortly after starting with a cold engine.

Replaced the fusible link and the junction box this evening.

I ohm'd out the one that was in previously. Two legs showed 1 ohm, the other zero'd out.

I don't freaking believe this, but it runs better, and shifts way better. Usually coming to a complete stop and applying ~50% throttle or betterwould trigger the coolant sensor code. I only have about 15 miles on it, but no codes. The fact it is more peppy and is shifting better blows my mind. What a stupid fix, and I'll be happy as hell if it cures some things. 😆

Fusible link and the junction box are still available from Toyota.
 
200k, original working fine but replaced w new anyway; plus moved to inside battery box

55BB0FA5-4D6D-48EA-BEA9-94D01C6E8744.jpeg
 
I also found an old thread with this interesting comment that's relevant enough I thought I'd toss in.

Somebody commented that what I was experiencing was because of the computer being completely unplugged if I remember correctly.

It still runs and behaves better. I think I still have a bad ground somewhere though. All the things I listed still happen, but way less frequently. And it's erratic.

Still the dumbest repair in the history of repairs. 🤣
 
200k, original working fine but replaced w new anyway; plus moved to inside battery box
And was anything different from before to after?
 
I replace mine with each battery change because of yanking on the wires, etc. this is my DD, so I do it as PM. Yes, I carry a spare.
 
If you're worried enough to start a thread, spend $14 on a replacement, $14 on a spare for the glovebox, and get on with a peaceful, worry free life

I replace mine with each battery change because of yanking on the wires, etc. this is my DD, so I do it as PM. Yes, I carry a spare.
All due respect (which is a lot), I think people missing the point of the thread-or I'm not explaining myself well, which is maybe more likely.
I've bought a spare. I'm not worried about my 308k mile FL crapping out on me, I know it's bound to happen. I'm intentionally trying to push the limits simply to find them, knowing that when that happens I'll have 3 minutes of unplanned inconvenience under the hood.

All I'm trying to learn is if people noticed a difference when they replaced an old but working fusible link with a new one. I know a lot of people change it preventatively so I figured they could let me know if I'm missing out on anything other than peace of mind by not changing it.
 
All due respect (which is a lot), I think people missing the point of the thread-or I'm not explaining myself well, which is maybe more likely.
I've bought a spare. I'm not worried about my 308k mile FL crapping out on me, I know it's bound to happen. I'm intentionally trying to push the limits simply to find them, knowing that when that happens I'll have 3 minutes of unplanned inconvenience under the hood.

All I'm trying to learn is if people noticed a difference when they replaced an old but working fusible link with a new one. I know a lot of people change it preventatively so I figured they could let me know if I'm missing out on anything other than peace of mind by not changing it.
Absolutely no difference from old to new, as I did it as PM and not as an already failed part.

How often do you change your oil?
 
All due respect (which is a lot), I think people missing the point of the thread-or I'm not explaining myself well, which is maybe more likely.
I've bought a spare. I'm not worried about my 308k mile FL crapping out on me, I know it's bound to happen. I'm intentionally trying to push the limits simply to find them, knowing that when that happens I'll have 3 minutes of unplanned inconvenience under the hood.

All I'm trying to learn is if people noticed a difference when they replaced an old but working fusible link with a new one. I know a lot of people change it preventatively so I figured they could let me know if I'm missing out on anything other than peace of mind by not changing it.

A new one has gotta be worth 5-10 horsepowers for sure, and probably an extra 4-5 mpg.



Sorry to be facetious, but it either works or you have issues and need to swap in a working one.
 
The only difference I noticed was that my 80 didn’t run with a blown FL and it ran great after replacing it! Honestly, it’s been 8 years since replacing my FL and I did not notice any difference in how it started or ran with the new one.
 
Absolutely no difference from old to new, as I did it as PM and not as an already failed part.

How often do you change your oil?
Same deal, 308k so far but I just bought 8 spare quarts to keep in the truck when the engine blows. That's it's own thread though
A new one has gotta be worth 5-10 horsepowers for sure, and probably an extra 4-5 mpg.



Sorry to be facetious, but it either works or you have issues and need to swap in a working one.
you're good, that's kinda the gut check I was after.

The only difference I noticed was that my 80 didn’t run with a blown FL and it ran great after replacing it! Honestly, it’s been 8 years since replacing my FL and I did not notice any difference in how it started or ran with the new one.

I think I've got the general consensus, thank you guys for humoring me. Doesn't seem like people see voltage drop from a gradual deterioration or anything like that. I'll keep soldiering on and if I remember to I'll update this thread in the future for curious minds.
 
All due respect (which is a lot), I think people missing the point of the thread-or I'm not explaining myself well, which is maybe more likely.
I've bought a spare. I'm not worried about my 308k mile FL crapping out on me, I know it's bound to happen. I'm intentionally trying to push the limits simply to find them, knowing that when that happens I'll have 3 minutes of unplanned inconvenience under the hood.

All I'm trying to learn is if people noticed a difference when they replaced an old but working fusible link with a new one. I know a lot of people change it preventatively so I figured they could let me know if I'm missing out on anything other than peace of mind by not changing it.
I wouldn't be surprised that one could find a measurable difference with a good multimeter, but so much of automotive electrical is binary: it worked/it didn't work. If you squint your eyes just right and wave an old JC Whitney catalog at it, I'll bet you can convince yourself your headlights get brighter. ;) Honestly, the guys who change them preemptively are mostly just trying to save themselves from hearing the dreaded *CLICK* on some icy day.
 
All,

I'm cringing at myself for starting a thread about fusible links with how much they are discussed, but here we are. I'm mostly looking for people's real world experiences with replacing the FL as PM, ie, you weren't trying to correct a problem when you replaced them...did you notice any difference?

I ask because I have 308k miles on the original FL, and have zero issues with mine (that I know of. it seems like my battery, a hand me down from a sedan, is slightly on the weak side compared to my other 80 with a brand new properly sized battery...no surprise there). I get that it's a ticking time bomb and I have a new one on the way that I'll be keeping on the truck for obvious reasons. I'm not bothered by the fact that I may end up replacing it on the side of the road in the rain. I know I can replace it now and keep my old one as the spare. At this point I'm just interested in how long it can last, let's say for science's sake and to maybe play devil's advocate around the fearmongering around this topic*. That is, of course, assuming I'm not already experiencing issues like voltage drop that are happening so gradually I don't know. Hence, my question.

*the fearmongering, if you call it that, is rooted in a lot of truth. You should get a spare or have some sort of contingency plan if you don't already. up til now I've had a little roll of fusible link wire I carry with my emergency set.

More food for thought: other than my dad crossing the jumper cables ~15 years ago it's lived a pretty nominal life. I have auxiliary circuts (lights, etc) but they typically run directly off the battery. I also found an old thread with this interesting comment that's relevant enough I thought I'd toss in.

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this factors into your equation and laboratory in the field case study on how long the 90982-08164 can survive un-disturbed out in the wild all alone in nature under your hood ...
old is old , crusty is crusty and 30 + year old PLANT A11 Crimped YAZAKI solid brass terminals are just that as well ......
new is new , fresh copper and brass correctly mechanically bonded with the correct SST , will transfer and flow electrical ions freely and happy .....like new
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1740724161129.png

1740724180615.png
 
Like others I replace as PM/Baselining of any 80 I have ever owned. When I purchase a new to me 80, I order two (one gets installed and the other goes in the rear storage) with all the other PM items to create a baseline for the vehicle.

Over the years I have had three go out when driving and one while in the driveway (purportedly). IMO only one could be contributed for the vehicle breaking down and the others were found to be outside factors that resulted in their failure.

I all cases of replacing as PM, I could not detect any noticeable (measurable) difference in the vehicle.
 
@ToyotaMatt
Matthew, great to see you onboard here. I like your one wire FL replacement. Please tell us why Toyota combines 3 wires in their FL design?

And if I have your attention, what FL is appropriate for a 1981 FJ43 which didn’t come with one? I added a 14G link wire.

IMG_0378.jpeg


IMG_5065.jpeg
 
@ToyotaMatt
Matthew, great to see you onboard here. I like your one wire FL replacement. Please tell us why Toyota combines 3 wires in their FL design?

And if I have your attention, what FL is appropriate for a 1981 FJ43 which didn’t come with one? I added a 14G link wire.

View attachment 3849319

View attachment 3849324


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Thank you mr Bob , nice to see you again sir ....:)


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My 90982-00080 kit-form-kit is NOT a fusible link , it is simply the main engine bay wire harness side correct OEM mating and matching connector plug , i crimp the correct 10ga oem color coded Tracer Striped wire on as a service pigtail assy and include a 3M crimp heat shrink adhesive lined butt connector too , this is the absolute BEST way to repair a BURNED up connection point of the main 90982-08264 fusible links grey plug and the one on the harness side by the FS , Factory Fit , Form and Function .......


- i will circle back later tonight and show more tech pics of what is going on inside that OEM harness side plug and what should be expected and needed in this critical connection point where details matter and matter do details



thanks
matt

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