Fusible Link Hacked - 97 80 Series (2 Viewers)

[Dave 2000]

Do you have info on the fuse box? I have been considering this.

Hi see the link below.

Mega & Midi Fuse Power Distribution Box

Compact power distribution & fuse box that distributes power theough a single mega link fuse into 4 midi or strip link fuses.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

Keep the box as near to the battery as possible with a heavy cable then fuse the individual links with the correct rating, I done this a number of years ago without further issues.

regards

Dave

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

That's a clever fix. I'm wondering if the MIDI or MEGA fuse links are "slow blow" over instantaneous fuses, it might be very close to factory fusible link specifications

 

[george_tlc]

Yes, as I wrote, MIDI fuses are slow blow. You can google for MIDI and Littelfuse and you'll get lots of info:

32V MIDI Bolt-Down Fuses - Bolt-Down Fuses - Littelfuse

www.littelfuse.com

On my patrol in oz, I replaced the old fusible links with MIDI fuses and also created some new power distribution points that are also MIDI fuse protected. But then I know what I'm doing

cheers,
george.

 

[mynameisbc]

Ok, looks like I need more help. I received the parts from Wits' End today (thanks Joey!) and installed the new fusible link and box...no radio, no crank, but the OBD sensor (Bluetooth) finally had power. The even stranger thing is that before I received the new part, I temporarily connected the broken (blue) fusible link and everything worked fine. Now it doesn't. Any recommendations?

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Ok, looks like I need more help. I received the parts from Wits' End today (thanks Joey!) and installed the new fusible link and box...no radio, no crank, but the OBD sensor (Bluetooth) finally had power. The even stranger thing is that before I received the new part, I temporarily connected the broken (blue) fusible link and everything worked fine. Now it doesn't. Any recommendations?

Have you checked fuses?

 

[mynameisbc]

All fuses visually look good, and for good measure, I replaced the radio and start-up fuses with new ones. Same issue - no crank, no radio, etc.

 

[Dave 2000]

I would go back to the FL with a volt meter, sounds like some corrosion or a broken wire in the vicinity of the FL's?

EDIT: A visual check of the fuses is not sufficient IMO.

regards

Dave

 

[jonheld]

All fuses visually look good, and for good measure, I replaced the radio and start-up fuses with new ones. Same issue - no crank, no radio, etc.

What are "start-up" fuses?

 

[jonheld]

Here is a cursory check of all 3 fusible links in system.
This assumes an OEM configuration.

Dome lights working? (FL AM1)
When you turn the key to ON does the CHARGE LAMP light up? (FL AM2)
Brake lights working? (FL MAIN)

If yes to all 3, then all 3 fusible links are intact.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Do you have an FSM?

This 25 year electrician agrees with Dave, visual inspection of a fuse does not always indicate continuity.

You might wanna ring them out. However with an FSM and jonheld fusible link test you'll probably be on the right track.

You could always visually inspect and ring out the new links. This would rule out any concerns the link or links got cooked on install.

Depending on we're your located there are lots of great shops for 80 series.

 

[mynameisbc]

I'm finally diggin in a bit more to troubleshoot. Thanks @jonheld. Your fusible link test worked and I confirmed all three intact.

Instead of a visual test, I pulled out my voltmeter and tested each one of the fuses...they are all good. (thanks @Dave 2000 @BillyGoatMTB); but I'll be honest, I didn't know how to test the EFI MAIN relay under the hood.

Then I did a voltage test of the fuse boards. Under the hood, power is going to the circuits, but only 10.4V which is low. I then checked the end-point for the stereo wiring harness that I'm trying to install, nothing. So I checked the instrument panel fuse block. I started with CIG, TAIL, OBD, STOP, DEFOG and couldn't find voltage. My wipers barely worked. And when I did a voltage check, the voltage was around 3V, super low. I finally checked my 2-week old battery and it was only around 11V, so took it back to the store to get recharged, tested, and will pick it up again tomorrow.

So the trouble seems to be between my hood fuse box and instrument panel fuse box?

I have the EWD but didn't really read it till today. I am trying to track the issue from my fuse block to my radio which is why I started pulling and testing the various instrument panel fuse circuits since they are primary with the radio. Here's a copy of the EWD I found online for free:

https://static1.squarespace.com/static/51a65a4de4b00037e6b3e3be/t/55ff7b15e4b08adf62131e69/1442806549877/1996+Toyota+Land+Cruiser+EWD.pdf

Another friend suggested that maybe my ECU could be fried from the fusible link being severed which may explain the O2 sensor problems on my OBD? He also recommended to check my chassis grounds for good contact by removing cleaning and reattaching.

I'll pick up my battery again tomorrow afternoon and will start troubleshooting again. Any suggestions? A reminder that my entire interior is stripped down and most of the electrical is disconnected. Hopefully, this isn't the reason for some of my issues. I'm still baffled that when I rigged my severed blue fusible link briefly to see if that was the issue, my new radio worked great...and now nothing. I feel I must have blown something?

Thanks again for all of the help, advice, and suggestions!

 

[Dave 2000]

You my find that during testing the battery went flat without you realising it? Or the battery actually has a cell down? 11 volts at the battery means it is on it's knees. Don't fall into the trap that 11 volts is only 1 volt or so down from fully charged, it does not work like that.

12.6 to 12.8 is fully charged but, that may be a surface charge, you put a load test on it and find that it is back down to 11 when the load is removed = faulty battery.

Just to help get you head around it:

12.8 Full charge
12.4 half charged or less
11.8 pretty much flat

The 11.8 may start the motor assuming all else is good but will not last for long if you need to continually crank.

Age/temperature/last charge/standing time etc all affect the batteries standby voltage.


regards

Dave

 

[jonheld]

So I checked the instrument panel fuse block. I started with CIG, TAIL, OBD, STOP, DEFOG and couldn't find voltage.

Without the FSM and EWD you're blindfolded in a dark room.

 

[mynameisbc]

Bad battery replaced. Fusible links still good/intact. All fuses are good. Still not getting current to the end-point radio harness.

I am using both FSM and EWD. Problem seems to be between fuse block and radio.

As I mentioned previously, when I discovered the bad fusible link last week and did a quick bypass, the radio worked fine. What could have happened?

I'm stumped.

 

[Dave 2000]

Your bypass may have taken out another fuse?

Glad the battery got sorted,

regards

Dave

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Getting caught up here. Great advice so far from @jonheld and @Dave 2000

If you bypassed the FL and it worked I would ring out the new FL disconnected.

Maybe I missed it in one of your posts, where was your bypass? Just the FL?

Have you checked the 3 FL connections? Burnt/corroded connectors on vehicle side?

To test this, just after the connector Using a fluke or other wire penetrating connector (I don't penetrate wires or use these unless absolutely necessary, and reseal wire with 3m wire sealant) could also help in finding a possible "open" in wires, this all depends on where your bypass was.

Bad connectors are possible causing an "open" wire. However, very rare are broken "open" wires in a Toyota (don't ask I learned this the hard way on our Sequoia).

If you bypassed the FL at the FL and it worked focus on that area, again it all depends on where you bypassed.

 

[mynameisbc]

Your bypass may have taken out another fuse?

Glad the battery go sorted,

regards

Dave

Thanks @Dave 2000. I'm glad the battery & fusible links got sorted too...because it now cranks and runs smoothly for the first time in months!

I'm still baffled by the radio not getting power. Every fuse and fuse block is good between the battery and the radio.

 

[jonheld]

Bad battery replaced. Fusible links still good/intact. All fuses are good. Still not getting current to the end-point radio harness.

I am using both FSM and EWD. Problem seems to be between fuse block and radio.

As I mentioned previously, when I discovered the bad fusible link last week and did a quick bypass, the radio worked fine. What could have happened?

I'm stumped.

In your previous post you said you were not getting voltage to the fuse panel by the driver's left knee. Is that still the case?

 

[Dave 2000]

When you say you have no power to the radio, IIRC there are two power supplies for the radio, one is a constant 12v and the other is switched from the key, might be worth following that up and see which is doing what?


regards

Dave

 

[mynameisbc]

Getting caught up here. Great advice so far from @jonheld and @Dave 2000

If you bypassed the FL and it worked I would ring out the new FL disconnected.

Maybe I missed it in one of your posts, where was your bypass? Just the FL?

My original bypass was the Blue FL. I reconnected it temporarily with heat shrink tubing to secure it. Fired up the radio for 2-minutes, then stopped the experiment till I got the new FL part. But when I installed the new FL, the radio no longer worked. Thanks to @jonheld FL test, I know the FL are all good now (heck, she cranks and runs great now)...but the radio harness is NOT getting power but everything else is.

I pulled out the dash to look at the wires and harnesses that run under the dash, closely inspected the wires by the ignition switch, etc. All good.