Fusible Link Hacked - 97 80 Series (3 Viewers)

[Dave 2000]

By coincidence I was looking through paperwork and found it was not a Blue Seas unit but something I purchased from the UK.

Mega & Midi Fuse Power Distribution Box

Compact power distribution & fuse box that distributes power theough a single mega link fuse into 4 midi or strip link fuses.

www.12voltplanet.co.uk

I mounted it on the inner wing. A word of caution here, on my diesel there was three wires in the block connector, two were on one bolt, so as I was fusing individually I went through the wiring diagram to get the ratings, you should do the same. If you are not sure then go for a lower rating and have spare fuses of a higher amperage.

Regards

Dave

 

[Dave 2000]

Do you have a photo and part number for the Blues Seas fuse box you mentioned? Still working well for you?

No number at it was not a Blue Seas unit, I confused it with another BS unit I had. The fitment was easy, and as I needed a heavy cable to go the rear this has a great take off terminal that you can fuse and it has been in at a guess a couple of years, no issues.

regards

Dave

 

[mynameisbc]

I have a '96 LX450 and owned it for 21 years. I've been having 'no crank' issues for years to include what appears to be a phantom drain. I go through batteries fairly quickly. Recently, the truck sputtered and coughed when doing some basic street driving in the neighborhood. So I parked her in the garage, plugged in my old Acron OBD II PocketScan, and got a code read-out: P0133, MIL ON, MONITORS, 1 Inc, Catalyst, 6 Ready, Misfire, Fuel, Comp, 02 Snsr, 02 Htr, EGR.

So as I'm waiting to figure it out, my son & gutted the vehicle & getting her ready for a cleaned carpet, new speakers, back-up camera, and stereo head unit.

When I reconnected the battery recently to test the new radio...nada...nothing. I then tried to connect a newer OBD scanner and there is no power going to it as well.

So this post was one of many that pointed me in the direction of the fusible links.

But I don't know where to find all three of them (I just want to replace all of them) or where to start. I feel this will answer many of my recurring electrical & start problems. At least I hope so. Any pics of where these fusible links are located and a break-down of how to replace them?

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

I have a '96 LX450 and owned it for 21 years. I've been having 'no crank' issues for years to include what appears to be a phantom drain. I go through batteries fairly quickly. Recently, the truck sputtered and coughed when doing some basic street driving in the neighborhood. So I parked her in the garage, plugged in my old Acron OBD II PocketScan, and got a code read-out: P0133, MIL ON, MONITORS, 1 Inc, Catalyst, 6 Ready, Misfire, Fuel, Comp, 02 Snsr, 02 Htr, EGR.

So as I'm waiting to figure it out, my son & gutted the vehicle & getting her ready for a cleaned carpet, new speakers, back-up camera, and stereo head unit.

When I reconnected the battery recently to test the new radio...nada...nothing. I then tried to connect a newer OBD scanner and there is no power going to it as well.

So this post was one of many that pointed me in the direction of the fusible links.

But I don't know where to find all three of them (I just want to replace all of them) or where to start. I feel this will answer many of my recurring electrical & start problems. At least I hope so. Any pics of where these fusible links are located and a break-down of how to replace them?

The fusible links come right off the battery I replaced mine and the male adapter that goes to the vehicle the PO was kind enough to cut it off, I'll get some photos and part numbers and get back to you

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

The first page of this thread has a bunch of good information along with the thread below.

Another Toyota wiring debacle from main battery

Does anyone know what's the current work around to this wiring debacle that Toyota has come up with here? I noticed that one of my wires was toasted, not sure why unless a short or faulty wiring somewhere. I am looking into some heavy duty wiring replacements for dual batteries in the process...

forum.ih8mud.com

I order all the parts I can from Wits End I believe in what Joey's doing.

Fusible Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser

Fuseable Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser (FLK-1)

absolute-wits-end.com

I'll dig up the part numbers for the other vehicle side connector splice kit and connector part number if you need it.

The photo below is the physical location of the fusible links I'm a big fan of replacing the anually depending on how much you drive.

I couldn't find my own photos so I approached the photo from the first page of this thread.

 

[mynameisbc]

Thanks for the quick reply @BillyGoatMTB! This is super helpful!! Can you confirm that the 3x fusible links mentioned in the other 80-series forums are in the single-position circled on your picture?

I'm ordering the parts now and just trying to figure out if this is as simple as it seems. Any pics on the actual process of rewiring & step-by-step to fix this?

 

[mynameisbc]

Ah...just looked more carefully at the thread link above that you posted...and all 3x fusible links are labeled in the pic. Perfect.

I compared it to my current situation, popped open the junction box, and found Blue wire (100 Amp) completely severed (pic below). So no wonder nothing is working! After getting my hands on it, I now see how easy it is to replace. I just ordered the part (x2 so I have a spare), will install soon, and let everyone know.

Thanks again @BillyGoatMTB

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Ah...just looked more carefully at the thread link above that you posted...and all 3x fusible links are labeled in the pic. Perfect.

I compared it to my current situation, popped open the junction box, and found Blue wire (100 Amp) completely severed (pic below). So no wonder nothing is working! After getting my hands on it, I now see how easy it is to replace. I just ordered the part (x2 so I have a spare), will install soon, and let everyone know.

Thanks again @BillyGoatMTB

View attachment 2302865

Your welcome and You got it, make sure to order a new box also, cheap insurance.

For the 3rd non bolted connection how does the vehicle side male connector look (photos attached)? You can order a replacement pigtail and housing for that as well which is what I had to do on mine.

For splicing permanent high conductivity wires such as the fusible link wires there's plenty of threads on ih8mud I personally like the NASA method mesh, twist, solder, shrink tube.

 

[hogan646]

Thanks for the quick reply @BillyGoatMTB! This is super helpful!! Can you confirm that the 3x fusible links mentioned in the other 80-series forums are in the single-position circled on your picture?

I'm ordering the parts now and just trying to figure out if this is as simple as it seems. Any pics on the actual process of rewiring & step-by-step to fix this?

These are the 3 parts I ordered when I had mine fixed.

• Connector housing is part# 90980-10982
• Repair wire is part# 82998-12470
• Fusible Link part # 90982-08264

 

[hogan646]

These are the 3 parts I ordered when I had mine fixed.

• Connector housing is part# 90980-10982
• Repair wire is part# 82998-12470
• Fusible Link part # 90982-08264

Also, you need the Junction Box part # 82670-60040

 

[retrofive]

Ah...just looked more carefully at the thread link above that you posted...and all 3x fusible links are labeled in the pic. Perfect.

I compared it to my current situation, popped open the junction box, and found Blue wire (100 Amp) completely severed (pic below). So no wonder nothing is working! After getting my hands on it, I now see how easy it is to replace. I just ordered the part (x2 so I have a spare), will install soon, and let everyone know.

Thanks again @BillyGoatMTB

View attachment 2302865

Hopefully easy solution. Those links will get you every time. Where is my "ask me how I know" button.

 

[BILT4ME]

Ah...just looked more carefully at the thread link above that you posted...and all 3x fusible links are labeled in the pic. Perfect.

I compared it to my current situation, popped open the junction box, and found Blue wire (100 Amp) completely severed (pic below). So no wonder nothing is working! After getting my hands on it, I now see how easy it is to replace. I just ordered the part (x2 so I have a spare), will install soon, and let everyone know.

Thanks again @BillyGoatMTB

View attachment 2302865

Order two sets and keep one in the glove box. If you have a problem, you have a backup and will be able to get it running again.

 

[Dave 2000]

From a quality point of view I think the fusible links are a bit 'Micky Mouse' compared to the general level of quality throughout the 80. I did go with a fuse box but still think the FL's were an after thought by Mr T.

regards

Dave

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

From a quality point of view I think the fusible links are a bit 'Micky Mouse' compared to the general level of quality throughout the 80. I did go with a fuse box but still think the FL's were an after thought by Mr T.

regards

Dave

Do you have info on the fuse box? I have been considering this.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Order two sets and keep one in the glove box. If you have a problem, you have a backup and will be able to get it running again.

Agreed, keep a spare set along with tools and a few other spare parts.

 

[mynameisbc]

Thanks to all. Ordered 2x fusible links + new junction block (small box housing) from Joey @ Wits' End. Joey was super helpful over the phone and less expensive even after shipping compared to sourcing the parts locally. I highly recommend. Parts are on the way!

Fusible Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser

Fuseable Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser (FLK-1)

absolute-wits-end.com

Fusible Link Junction Block for 80 Series Land Cruiser

Fuseable Link Distribution Block for 80 Series Land Cruiser (FLK-2)

absolute-wits-end.com

@hogan646 I may need to replace more of the wire & connectors...but hoping this simple fix gets it up & running.
@BillyGoatMTB thanks for the NASA wiring push...I needed that as I am reconfiguring stereo & speaker wiring at the same time

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Thanks to all. Ordered 2x fusible links + new junction block (small box housing) from Joey @ Wits' End. Joey was super helpful over the phone and less expensive even after shipping compared to sourcing the parts locally. I highly recommend. Parts are on the way!

Fusible Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser

Fuseable Link for 80 Series Land Cruiser (FLK-1)

absolute-wits-end.com

Fusible Link Junction Block for 80 Series Land Cruiser

Fuseable Link Distribution Block for 80 Series Land Cruiser (FLK-2)

absolute-wits-end.com

@hogan646 I may need to replace more of the wire & connectors...but hoping this simple fix gets it up & running.
@BillyGoatMTB thanks for the NASA wiring push...I needed that as I am reconfiguring stereo & speaker wiring at the same time

Awesome
Joey's a rock star!
Enjoy your on board spare parts comfort collection sir. Extra parts is fun and addictive.

 

[mynameisbc]

And for all of those who are wondering what those 3x little cables (fusible links) do...everything!

 

[george_tlc]

Folk that think the fusible links are micky mouse or think they can use standard fuses...

The fusible links have silicone insulation so that if/when the link fuses the 'fire' is contained in the insulation since silicone has very high temperature capability.

Before using a 'fuse' to replace the links, you had better understand that the fusible link takes time to fuse. It is there to protect the wiring. It takes time for the link to fuse, it is SLOW blow. As long as it fuses before the wiring melts, it has done its job.

MIDI fuses are slow blow and have the characteristics to handle a surge to 100% (or even 150%) and will not blow instantly. They blow faster with higher current surge/short.

You need to know the fusible link current ratings - the colours of the insulation isn't just to be pretty , the colour identifies the current rating.

A lot of the issues with the fusible links is that folk pull/yank on them when replacing the battery and also stretch them due to using batteries with posts that are not in the right place.

Anyhow, just be sure what you are doing if you plan to replace the fusible links with fuses or you will have even more problems and/or risk the wiring harness when something does go wrong.

cheers,
george.

 

[BillyGoatMTB]

Folk that think the fusible links are micky mouse or think they can use standard fuses...

The fusible links have silicone insulation so that if/when the link fuses the 'fire' is contained in the insulation since silicone has very high temperature capability.

Before using a 'fuse' to replace the links, you had better understand that the fusible link takes time to fuse. It is there to protect the wiring. It takes time for the link to fuse, it is SLOW blow. As long as it fuses before the wiring melts, it has done its job.

MIDI fuses are slow blow and have the characteristics to handle a surge to 100% (or even 150%) and will not blow instantly. They blow faster with higher current surge/short.

You need to know the fusible link current ratings - the colours of the insulation isn't just to be pretty , the colour identifies the current rating.

A lot of the issues with the fusible links is that folk pull/yank on them when replacing the battery and also stretch them due to using batteries with posts that are not in the right place.

Anyhow, just be sure what you are doing if you plan to replace the fusible links with fuses or you will have even more problems and/or risk the wiring harness when something does go wrong.

cheers,
george.

Ahmen George!
Excellent facts sir
I'll be sticking with Toyota engineered factory fusible links on my rig.