Good catch @jonheld but earlier it was my mistake (I'm learning as I'm going). I was not using my multimeter correctly...now I am. So yes, I'm getting the correct voltage to the fuse panel.
Fusible Link Hacked - 97 80 Series (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter hogan646
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Good catch @jonheld but earlier it was my mistake (I'm learning as I'm going). I was not using my multimeter correctly...now I am. So yes, I'm getting the correct voltage to the fuse panel.
Both of those wires to the radio harness (constant & ignition 12V) are not receiving current.
Unless your eyeballs are properly calibrated to measure across resistive connections, I suggest using a meter to test point to point.
Ha! At this point, my eyeballs are going cross-eyed and no I don't have x-ray vision. I'm just hoping to avoid the mess of tight and hard to reach wires running throughout the dash to the main battery. I was hoping (praying) for an easy solution.
So to quickly recap, EVERYTHING is now working with the exception of the new radio harness.
Is that correct?
Is that correct?
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Any signs or critters in the dash?
Negative @BillyGoatMTB. My set up is in a clean, critter-free garage. I've been poking around enough under the hood, under the vehicle, and in the dash to be confident that no critters are causing this issue.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
Can you elaborate on the shrink tube connection you used when you bypassed the FL?
It sounds to me like your problems at the FL if you bypass and fiddled only there and it worked that's your culper.
Again could be corroded vehicle side FL connection.
It sounds to me like your problems at the FL if you bypass and fiddled only there and it worked that's your culper.
Again could be corroded vehicle side FL connection.
I don't think it is the FL or connections but let me run through my steps since the thread is getting long. I want to make sure I summarize correctly.
- A week ago, I found a severed/broken FL thanks to this thread (Fusible Link Hacked - 97 80 Series)
- I ordered new FLs from Wits' End (thanks Joey!) but it would take a few days to arrive.
- My new stereo replacement head unit's 30-days warranty/return was about to run out & I needed to test it, so I worked a bypass.
- I say bypass, but it was essentially taking the existing FL that was broken/severed and forcing the connection with a piece of shrink tube.
- It worked (I celebrated) and confirmed the RHU was good to go (whew...I didn't have to return it).
- New FLs arrived, I installed them, but RHU/radio harness wasn't getting power.
- @jonheld FL test confirmed the FLs were intact & good.
- Was having main battery power issues, took it in, and replaced with a new battery. New battery was bad. Replaced it and finally have a good battery.
- I finally figured out how to use a voltmeter/multimeter! So now can confirm all fuses and fuse box connections are good.
- And still...NO CURRENT getting to radio harness; both constant/ignition wires are NOT receiving current
Dave 2000
Not all Land Rovers are useless!
A couple of things, always check your volt meter on a known good battery, if you tried to check voltage with the meter on the the wrong range you may have blown the internal fuse, this then gives weird (read very) readings.
Second, the two supplies for the radio are from different sources, the first is a permanent 12 volt for radio memory, without a diagram I am guessing from the fuse box? The second for radio power is from the ignition switch again connected somewhere in the fuse box.
Sometimes many low amperage vehicle parts share the same fuse, for example the interior light may share with the radio, the screen washer pump with the rear wiper, just odd ball things like that may help, so check EVERYTHING works.
Check the connections behind the steering lock, check that at least one goes live when the key is turned to the aux position, you need to get your self anchored to a diagnosis point or you will continue to chase your tail.
So try those ideas first.
regards
Dave
Second, the two supplies for the radio are from different sources, the first is a permanent 12 volt for radio memory, without a diagram I am guessing from the fuse box? The second for radio power is from the ignition switch again connected somewhere in the fuse box.
Sometimes many low amperage vehicle parts share the same fuse, for example the interior light may share with the radio, the screen washer pump with the rear wiper, just odd ball things like that may help, so check EVERYTHING works.
Check the connections behind the steering lock, check that at least one goes live when the key is turned to the aux position, you need to get your self anchored to a diagnosis point or you will continue to chase your tail.
So try those ideas first.
regards
Dave
Constant +12 comes off the 10 amp DOME circuit.
Switched +12 comes off the 15 amp CIG circuit.
Switched +12 comes off the 15 amp CIG circuit.
@jonheld @Dave 2000 thanks for the nudge. Since my CIG & DOME light are working...I'm now into tracing down the wires inside the radio area.
I've been using the '96 LC EWD....and I don't think my layout is the same for '96 LX 450. The wiring diagram just doesn't match up. For instance, my cigarette outlet does not junction or split prior to the radio harness, but looks like it runs from the instrument fuse box directly.
Maybe I just have a dead harness or connector. Everything else in the panel seems to be getting the power, including those that junction off or the same point as the radio harness.
This is the radio section of the LX450 EWD. Let me know if you need anything else.
Thanks @jonheld. This is super helpful but think I might need pg 54 (from power source) to see upstream.
Before you sent this, I was on pg 78/79 of the '96 LC EWD. Unfortunately, my center dash is disassembled right now, so many of the illumination components attached to the same radio circuit are hard for me to trace.
I'll now use the LX450 EWD so I can better sort through this. Many thanks!
This is the Power Source schematic from the LX450 EWD.
BillyGoatMTB
SILVER Star
@jonheld with the nonstop wins!!!
At one point all this stuff was available for free to download. When my brother got his LX450 I downloaded the whole shebang, and when he got his LX570 I was able to download that as well. I honestly couldn't tell you where I got it from. The 97 LX450 FSM is not the best and crosses over frequently to the LX470 in many sections, so I stick with the 1996 TLC FSM for mechanicals unless I'm looking for something specific to the Lexus.
I still wish it was free to download! Your LX450 diagram is way better than the LC EWD I was using. Thanks again @jonheld!
For the first time, I see one of my issues. The main power runs first through the amp, then to the RHU...not RHU to amp.
But I am still not getting power to the amp or CD changer (pg 176). I've traced the wires back to see if I can find a junction or some other issue but beyond tearing my front dash off, I can't find a junction or issue.
any thoughts?
Keep in mind that I typically splice multi page schemos into a single pdf. It makes it easier for me and my old man eyes.
If you give me a valid email address, I can send you a Dropbox link to download it. Since I didn't pay for it and I didn't put in any real effort other than adding bookmarks to the file for my convenience, I don't see the need to charge for it.
