Fun with castings

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

The sand I use is referred to as green sand, simply because it does not cure to a hardened state. There are lots of other binder systems out there, but for the home guy, green sand is hard to beat. Basically it is 10-12% bentonite clay mixed with sand, then water is added until the moisture is evenly distributed. The sand won't be so wet as to feel like beach sand, but with pressure it will stick together.

Packing the sand in the flask is called ramming, and it is the part that takes practice to master. What's nice about using green sand is that if you don't like your mold, you just re-do it, and you're not out any binder or sand. Other binder systems don't really allow you to even reclaim the sand without some specialized equipment.

Building a sand castle with wet sand is somewhat analogous to the way green sand works, in that the sand is sticking to itself, so the castle stays together. It isn't particularly strong, and any of the edges are easy to break as are small features. Green sand is still fragile, but way easier to get better control. The graininess of my castings is mostly due to me not working very hard to find a source for finer mesh sand, which would help with detail in the castings. The molds are usually strong enough to withstand careful handling. Molten aluminum flows nicely through, and introducing it into the mold won't usually disturb the sand.
 
Okay, so that makes sense to me. How do you pack the sand? Is it wet? When you separate the cope from the drag and strip the pattern out, what keeps the sand from collapsing in on the void?

Sorry for so many questions... I'm just really intrigued by this!


I'll chip in a little info to help...

The sand is usually mixed with a bit of a binder, so it holds it's shape. Imagine a mixture of sand and corn syrup... Sticks together and holds it's shape. It's a one time use setup, you have to re-pack the sand around your part and create a new mold each time...

**edit - damn, you beat me to it again! - guess I should refresh my screen before typing a reply! **
 
Yea....and I've spent a few moments watching YouTube videos making the green-sand and other types for a home foundry. Also, not to mention watching how to pack a cope & drag, using a riddle/sifter, ramming the pattern, installing a sprue hole, cutting gates, and using the parting compound/sand....all KOOL STUFF!

That's one hobby I don't need to mess with....it uses FIRE, and I've been know to burn a few things in my life. ;)
 
I found this website about sand casting.
Found it interesting so thought I'd share it. I have no affiliation.

http://www.foundry101.com/new_page_7.htm

This goes to the how to page.
There's more info if you go to the home page.

I haven't went thru the whole website, mostly was interested in the step by step info page.

I know nothing about casting, but found this interesting.

Cheers, Allen
 
The sand I use is referred to as green sand, simply because it does not cure to a hardened state. There are lots of other binder systems out there, but for the home guy, green sand is hard to beat. Basically it is 10-12% bentonite clay mixed with sand, then water is added until the moisture is evenly distributed. The sand won't be so wet as to feel like beach sand, but with pressure it will stick together.

Packing the sand in the flask is called ramming, and it is the part that takes practice to master. What's nice about using green sand is that if you don't like your mold, you just re-do it, and you're not out any binder or sand. Other binder systems don't really allow you to even reclaim the sand without some specialized equipment.

Building a sand castle with wet sand is somewhat analogous to the way green sand works, in that the sand is sticking to itself, so the castle stays together. It isn't particularly strong, and any of the edges are easy to break as are small features. Green sand is still fragile, but way easier to get better control. The graininess of my castings is mostly due to me not working very hard to find a source for finer mesh sand, which would help with detail in the castings. The molds are usually strong enough to withstand careful handling. Molten aluminum flows nicely through, and introducing it into the mold won't usually disturb the sand.

I'll chip in a little info to help...

The sand is usually mixed with a bit of a binder, so it holds it's shape. Imagine a mixture of sand and corn syrup... Sticks together and holds it's shape. It's a one time use setup, you have to re-pack the sand around your part and create a new mold each time...

**edit - damn, you beat me to it again! - guess I should refresh my screen before typing a reply! **

Yea....and I've spent a few moments watching YouTube videos making the green-sand and other types for a home foundry. Also, not to mention watching how to pack a cope & drag, using a riddle/sifter, ramming the pattern, installing a sprue hole, cutting gates, and using the parting compound/sand....all KOOL STUFF!

That's one hobby I don't need to mess with....it uses FIRE, and I've been know to burn a few things in my life. ;)

Okay, so this is exactly what I needed. In all the videos I was turning up I couldn't find more info on how the sand worked... now it makes sense. Bentonite would certainly do the trick, and I can get that around here. Now that I have the term "green-sand" I've been able to find plenty of info.

Thanks for the letting me hijack a bit. I won't be doing this next weekend, but it's been added to my list of "must tinker with someday" items. =)
 
Got some other style emblems for you to play with next time, if you're interested...(I need another of the top left version)

emblems.webp
 
Do a search for Petrobond. It is a premixed green sand that uses an oil to do the bonding and not water. No steam explosions. The sand is a fine texture and can be used over and over again. It is not that expensive and there are many suppliers. I have used it for years to cast some aluminum parts that I make.
 
chevurai--thanks for the tip. I just ordered 35# to play with. At 140 mesh my surface quality should go up significantly as well.

Dan--when that stuff arrives I'll let you know. We can test our ability to drink beer and make emblems.
 
Back
Top Bottom