Full Float Rear Axle Rotor Studs (1 Viewer)

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They'll pop and carry on during slow speed turns on pavement, but I've never had a problem with one, and I've put them to some hard core use over the years. But yeah, a part-time locker would be better for a daily driver.

I was 5? years into my Land Cruiser journey before I first owned a locking differential (ARB's, still have them in the same FJ40 22 years later) BUT had I know how inexpensive Lock-Rights were and how easy they could be installed, I would have rocked them F/R in my FJ40 right off the bat. Tires chirping in a parking lot? Awesome for a 16 year old :D I soon learned of selectable lockers i.e. ARB or OE Cable and I was hell bent on saving pennies to buy them which I did in Y2K. Thankfully the world didn't end because I had those lockers purchased lol.
 
I was 5? years into my Land Cruiser journey before I first owned a locking differential (ARB's, still have them in the same FJ40 22 years later) BUT had I know how inexpensive Lock-Rights were and how easy they could be installed, I would have rocked them F/R in my FJ40 right off the bat. Tires chirping in a parking lot? Awesome for a 16 year old :D I soon learned of selectable lockers i.e. ARB or OE Cable and I was hell bent on saving pennies to buy them which I did in Y2K. Thankfully the world didn't end because I had those lockers purchased lol.


i can't see in any way how the constant and random metallurgy metal on metal shock factor as the lunch-box or lock-right does not take it's toll on U-joints , pinion splines , and gear boxes too ?

the sledge hammer effect transmits all the up through the drive train ...

this equals a much shorter over all components life span from a fundamental stand point

the ARB is a on demand system , correct Kurt ?

so you can be at a stand still and safely engage and disengage it

the round the corner topic with a ARB and tire binding and chirping when ARB engaged is LOW impact metallurgy harm
only rubber tire high impact harm i will agree with
 
If you don't do hardcore wheeling why the locker?
Driving on the road with open diff is way better

I will still want to get out on the trails occasionally, and I will want at least a rear locker when I do. Also, many people's ideas of hard-core wheeling differ.
 
i can't see in any way how the constant and random metallurgy metal on metal shock factor as the lunch-box or lock-right does not take it's toll on U-joints , pinion splines , and gear boxes too ?

the sledge hammer effect transmits all the up through the drive train ...

this equals a much shorter over all components life span from a fundamental stand point

the ARB is a on demand system , correct Kurt ?

so you can be at a stand still and safely engage and disengage it

the round the corner topic with a ARB and tire binding and chirping when ARB engaged is LOW impact metallurgy harm
only rubber tire high impact harm i will agree with

It does take a toll on all of the mentioned parts. So do larger tires, so does the weight from bumpers, winches roof racks, etc. Everything we do to an original Cruiser is a generally speaking a compromise. While the Lock-Right will reduce life of some components, I don't think it's accurate to quantify as "much shorter". Metrics to back that up simply don't exist and are not supported by the thousands of users out there with Detroits, Lock Rights, Aussies and Lokka's i.e. they are not calling frequently ordering u-joints or ring and pinions. We've sold hundreds of LockRights in the last 30 years, I can't think of too many issues overall. I bet we've warrantied damage to the locker itself on just a handful over the years.

Yes, the ARB is on-demand, as is the OE Cable, OE electic, Eaton, TJM, etc. They can be activated when stopped or when moving so long as wheel rotaton is synchronized (same speed). For a semi-float rear axle, options are limited, OE stuff is off the table, ARB is 4x the the cost. Don't get me wrong, I love ARB Air Lockers, have driven them around the globe, professionally rock-crawled with them, desert raced with them (think Baja 1000), hell we drove across Greenland with them. They are robust, they work when you need them and act identical to stock when not engaged (most models) but for some, the use case of the LockRight makes sense.
 
i can't see in any way how the constant and random metallurgy metal on metal shock factor as the lunch-box or lock-right does not take it's toll on U-joints , pinion splines , and gear boxes too ?

the sledge hammer effect transmits all the up through the drive train ...

this equals a much shorter over all components life span from a fundamental stand point

the ARB is a on demand system , correct Kurt ?

so you can be at a stand still and safely engage and disengage it

the round the corner topic with a ARB and tire binding and chirping when ARB engaged is LOW impact metallurgy harm
only rubber tire high impact harm i will agree with


Don't get me wrong. I definitely understand your logic, and I'm not trying to change anyone's opinion about what lockers to use. All I'm saying, is that I used Lock-Rite lockers for 20+ years in my Samurais and Toyota Trucks, and never had the first issue with them. I usually drove to and from the trails (occasionally trailered), and it was anywhere from 100 miles or less. I had typical trail breakages just like anyone else, but none that I attributed solely to the use of lockers. Now, tire size obviously has a lot to do with it. I always ran 32" tires on my Samurais, and typically 36" on my Toyota's.

When I was younger, I always wanted cable lockers for my Samurai, but no one made them. At the time, Lock-Rites where like $180 for a Samurai, so it was pretty much a no brainer.
 
I will still want to get out on the trails occasionally, and I will want at least a rear locker when I do. Also, many people's ideas of hard-core wheeling differ.
Seems like most of the time I was stuck it was because the differentials were open. Really embarrassing when one wheel of each axle is on ice and you stop moving and can't get it moving again.

I just had my 1 ton in snow so deep that the bed left an impression in the snow, so I had a lot of floatation. I should have needed a pull or use my wench, but the traction control and rear limited slip were able to provide the traction to get it out.
 
So Cruiserparts wanted to give me a credit on these wheels. They said they would send me a return label, and wanted me to send them back. I told them I would send them back, if that's what they wanted, but that I just wanted a refund, rather than credit. Here are the wheels they want me to ship back to them.

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IMG_1910.jpg


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Unconscionable they would send you stuff in that condition.
 
How were those wheels described to you?
 
they said they were used and would need to be cleaned and or blasted before being painted or powder coated, but that they were good, serviceable wheels. I told them they were ready for the scrap heap, and I didn't want them, even if they were free.

They didn't even bother to send the other set of wheels I ordered.
 
This is exactly how they sent them. The blue one is the only one that looks 'serviceable', and it still looks like crap.

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The rear end had this horrible place on it where someone apparently tried to repair some crack in the housing, and did a horrible job. I told them about this, and they wanted to give me $120 credit for it. Pretty laughable, but whatever. I'll still have to clean it up some before I reweld it. Here's what it looked like before and after grinding it down...

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What the Hell kinda wheels are those anyway? Splits ?
 
Given the trauma that housing has seen. It may be wide to rig up a line-bore setup to make sure it's not bent. Hopefully it's just a crack that they welded.

Your perches also have some non-original something going on.

1674098221194-png.3223439


Can't quite tell if it has some taper to it and was used as a ship or just a weld-on trip spacer to level a vehicle?
 
Yeah, I showed them that also. They didn't seem to care much because they didn't respond with any word on that.

I think it's just some kind of leveling spacers. I'll just cut them off. It's just a pain to have to do all that when you pay so much for something and expect a decent part.
 
The conditions of the parts are just ridiculous. Good luck making what you can work out.
 
Those pads are repairs from the perches folding/splitting. See it all the time on Colombia 43/45’s that got worked
 
Cruisermatt, I disagree, the ARB, Detroit, in the 9.5 are too small and break. The lunch box as well, all broke. I have never tried a spool but have moved on from the 9.5.
Not trying to debate, dont care, IMO the 9.5 is great for normal/moderate use.
 

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