Fuji carb (21100-61012) solenoid wire connection on a '79 (2 Viewers)

[mdawg]

I just acquired a new City Racer Fuji carburetor (21100-61012) to replace the Weber 38 DGAS that came with the vehicle. In looking at the solenoid connection on it (first pic, blue circle), I'm kinda scratching my head as to what I should connect it to? I have quite a few open connections already that are sitting on the inside of the driver's side fender (second pic, blue circles), so, which one should I use, and how are folks connecting them since the connectors do not mate?

FWIW... the long red wire in the second pic was connected to the Weber carb.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I'd bet the answer is in the correct wiring diagram for you year/model/market. Put on connectors of your choice, match 1 or the other, replace with a mating pair.
Free downloads manuals here Land Cruiser Factory Service Manuals (FSMs) - https://www.cruisercult.com/factory-service-manuals

 

[Skreddy]

If the long red one is a switched 12v source, I’d use that and a female spade connector should fit in the connector on the carb side.
If the red isn’t switched 12v, pic one of the others that is.

 

[jestlurnin]

I had the same issue with my 78’ 55 when I put a Fuji carb on it and got rid of the old Weber.. Check the wiring diagram as stated above for the correct color wire. Someone with more knowledge than me can tell you if you should have 12V on that wire in certain ignition key positions.

As for the connector, choose one side to swap a connector on that works with the other side
@Coolerman sells

OEM connectors if you wanna go that route.

Like @Skreddy said

 

[bhsdriller]

multimeter checking each one will tell you pretty quick

 

[rlong]

I agree above however the red wire will not likely be on the Factory schematic and as Skreddy indicates, it would very likely have been for the electric choke on the Weber and should be simple 12V switched with the ignition (easily confirmed), and work for your purpose. If you can find a different oem factory solenoid wire in the harness you could also use that. (I have not done such as Ive never owned a “new fangled” FJ40 with “electric carb”. )

 

[mattressking]

This is the correct style plug on the chassis for the factory fuel cut solenoid.

Check this wire for a Black Yellow/White Red wire. Test for +12v on the wire (black/yellow or white/red) with key on then check it zeroes out with key off. If this works, I recommend using the correct terminal to adapt (PM me on how to do it effectively).

If the two pin terminal fails the test, test the single red wire (which is also off the Black/Yellow) and confirm +12v with key on then zeroes out with key off.

If that works then buy this and crimp on the wire end then plug into carb.

1 Pin Yazaki .250″ CN(A) Connector – Eastern Beaver Inc

Yazaki 1 pin CN(A) connectors. Part numbers 7123-2115 female, 7122-2115 male. Includes terminals. Original. Unsealed connectors.

www.easternbeaver.com

 

[mdawg]

Thanks for all the help guys, I do appreciate it.

The "correct" plug has a solid black wire and a solid white wire (see pics below); that solid black wire is carrying 11.4 volts with the ignition set to ON, and the solid white wire is carrying about 2 volts. The solid red wire is carrying the same as the solid black wire, at 11.4 volts.

I am pulling 12.4 volts at the battery... does only getting 11.4 at the wires indicate a problem?

 

[charliemeyer007]

To me a little voltage drop is expected in skinny wires. Plug it in and see if works.

 

[mdawg]

To me a little voltage drop is expected in skinny wires. Plug it in and see if works.

Definitely. I'm waiting on a new carb insulator (21912-61035) and then I'll get that carb installed.

 

[mdawg]

Also, with the ignition switched OFF, I was getting very odd readings on the multimeter on the solid black and solid red wires, ranging from 25 to 50 volts. No cause for concern, right?

 

[charliemeyer007]

Are you sure your meter is good?

 

[mdawg]

Are you sure your meter is good?

I think so? I have had it a long time, but it might be worth investing in a new one. I just checked it again and got:

• IGNITION OFF - 150.x volts
• IGNITION ON - 11.4 volts
• IGNITION OFF - starts at 20.x volts and begins to decrease down to 19.x, 18.x, 17.x, etc.

Yeah, that doesn't sound "good" to me.

 

[nabbasi]

With the ignition on, when you plug the solenoid in you will hear an audible click from the solenoid engaging. You can hear it be applying 12V directly to it.

i don’t see in the diagram that there should be just a solid black and just a solid white, but I found all kinds of non-diagram matching original wiring on my late 1978.

I do not have an emissions control computer on my 1967, and just have an ignition powered black 16awg fused wire running to my idle circuit solenoid.

Full disclosure, I don’t know if the emissions control computer is doing anything special other than positive 12V for that wire.

 

[charliemeyer007]

I have like 5 VOM, several are the free Harbor china meters they gave away for free if you bought something. One is a old radio shack, and one I bought as radio operator for the army back in 74.

A while back I bought a digital DC probe off Amoron, self powering if 3 to 48 volts are present - works good for the money. I have several of the test probes you can poke in the wire and see if the bulb lights - very handy as long as you don't drop it too often and kill the filament.

 

[nabbasi]

I have like 5 VOM, several are the free Harbor china meters they gave away for free if you bought something. One is a old radio shack, and one I bought as radio operator for the army back in 74.

A while back I bought a digital DC probe off Amoron, self powering if 3 to 48 volts are present - works good for the money. I have several of the test probes you can poke in the wire and see if the bulb lights - very handy as long as you don't drop it too often and kill the filament.

I’ve been burnt by the cheap/ free harbor freight guys in the past.

I have one of these. It’s brass and heavy (and sturdy - trust me, I’ve dropped it a lot), and the bulb is replaceable. Makes this kind of troubleshooting easier.