2004 LX. Leaking fuel from the seam, new (used) tank is on the way. I looked through the Factory Service Manual, the SFI section has some info but not a procedure to drop it. Mostly just curious on how to unplug the hoses/tubes/wires. Do I need to go in from above to disconnect the fuel pump, or is there enough slack to lift the vehicle a few inches and drop the tank to the ground? Same question on the main tube, return hose, evap tube, inlet pipe. Looks like i cant access any of it the way it sits. Do it a few inches and then go from the top, or drop it a few inches and go from the bottom? Thank you for the advice!
Fuel tank replacement procedure (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter BigMaineWomen
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- fuel fuel tank replacement tank
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Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Is this what you're referring to?
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
I can reach all of the connections from underneath the truck on my 2000 LX470. Not sure if the 2004 is that much different or not.
I would certainly disconnect anything you can from up above (fuel pump wiring and hoses) under the rear seat. No reason not to, and much better visibility/access.
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- #5
That helps!! Thank you very much. I believe 98-05 are the same, so if you can reach them, I 'should' be able to. But i can't get get my hand up in the space between the tank and body to feel the top of the sending unit or evap tube. It doesnt take too long to access from above. I think i will plan on doing that and then dropping it and feeling as i go. I'll report back next week on how i ended up doing it.
Thanks again
Thanks again
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- #6
Actually that procedure is for a 2006 LX/LC, so 2005+. Not sure how different the procedure may be for a 2004.
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
Good catch! My mistake, I opened the wrong file.
Not exactly verbose:
I ran into this problem when I removed the tank in my 80; it's apparently obvious, so no instructions are given. When I got into it, I had to agree. The worst problem I had was removing the tank straps. My truck isn't rusty by any means, but the tank strap bolts, on the opposite side from the hinges were welded shut with rust. After two days, I gave up and got out the sawzall. I had to remove the body mount bushing nuts and lift the body several inches to remove the strap mount bolts. They were far longer than the clearance between the frame and body.
Obviously, this isn't in the FSM, because they don't apply rust from the factory. That's a DIY thing.
The fuel pup removal is similar though, and not at all difficult
I did this a year ago and did only the fuel pump wiring (clipped to inner rocker panel and easily visible) before removing inner side of straps (near driveshaft), lowering tank slowly with floor jack, and disconnecting everything as it became accessible. I think there was enough slack in everything to work from the ground once I began lowering. I never worked from the cabin access hole at all.
Messy job and re-threading the strap bolts is a pain (@2020 Rocks had the correct bolt dimensions to buy longer ones for ease of threading) but the project was easy as pie in general. I remember more trouble getting the filler neck and breathers re-attached while reinstalling.
Messy job and re-threading the strap bolts is a pain (@2020 Rocks had the correct bolt dimensions to buy longer ones for ease of threading) but the project was easy as pie in general. I remember more trouble getting the filler neck and breathers re-attached while reinstalling.
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- #9
Thank you very much for the 2004 documentation and the insight! My truck IS pretty rusty but i was able to remove both tank strap bolts, although i did round one off to 13mm in the process. This was last week when i was investigating if i had a cracked hose or what, and determined the leak was at the tank seam. Hopefully the worst is behind me with those tank straps but i'll report back on my experience either way.
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- #10
This is still on my to-do list, just been driving around with under half a tank while I took care of some home stuff (patch the roof, replace the rotted back door etc.) before winter hits. I bought a used replacement tank and shield from Florida, shipped up here for $330 which i thought was fair. Cleaned and painted it all up and its ready to go in. I picked up replacement strap bolts today. Just incase anyone needs them, the bolts are 10mm x 30mm with 1.25 pitch and a 14mm head. I grabbed 10.9 JIS flange bolts from the hardware store in the same size, with a 13mm head. I would have went with 40mm but they were missing from the box. I'll see if i can knock this out next week.
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- #11
New tank is in. Took me 5 hours including a quick trip to the hardware store for a bolt and clamp. Thats having already freed up the strap bolts. Changed some hoses and used new clamps. Did it all from underneath with the rough steps above from T4R2TLC. For me the hardest part was probably the electrical connector. I had to wedge the catch open and keep working at it.
Ramps, jack and stands for some room under. Used standard pliers, needle nose and water pumps for clamps and to break free hoses. Some clamps take a 10mm socket. Extension, knuckle, socket (14mm) and ratchet for strap bolts. 8mm socket to swap the fuel pump over. Rag to soak up some gas from the line so it doesn't drip in your eyes. I disconnected the battery so no codes back yet but we'll see. Really appreciate the guidance on this, gents.
Ramps, jack and stands for some room under. Used standard pliers, needle nose and water pumps for clamps and to break free hoses. Some clamps take a 10mm socket. Extension, knuckle, socket (14mm) and ratchet for strap bolts. 8mm socket to swap the fuel pump over. Rag to soak up some gas from the line so it doesn't drip in your eyes. I disconnected the battery so no codes back yet but we'll see. Really appreciate the guidance on this, gents.
