Fuel system question...

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cruiserhound said:
I have a feeling the egr is causing me problems. I cannot find a replacement and they are discontinued through Toyota. My thinking is to do away with the egr system.
Click to expand...

Yes, EGR is likely contributing to the problem.

Have you scanned the vehicle for any codes? That would be helpful.
 
cruiserhound said:
I started it back up in the driveway and it almost seemed like it was about to stall out.
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This is screaming, "torn intake plenum" to me. If there's a crack/tear in the bellows of the intake plenum, when you apply torque in reverse the tear will open up. This allows unmetered air into the system and will cause rough idle. If the tear is severe enough, the motor will stall.

Any unmetered air entering the system will cause rough idle. Check the common items first. The entire upper half of the motor must be air tight or you will have rough idle.

Valve cover gasket
valve cover grommets
PCV valve and grommet
oil fill cap o-ring
oil dipstick o-ring
side cover gasket

THEN you can start looking for other vacuum leaks. Please read this document.
http://www.sdsysdesign.com/tlc/images/Strife/3FE TuneUp.pdf

The series of hard vacuum lines on the left side of the motor are also likely clogged with carbon deposits and/or debris from the EGR valve and regulator. They have internal diaphragms that disintegrate over time.

As far as the missing O-ring from the FPR, that lives on the delivery pipe to the FPR, not the return feed. I suspect it popped off during removal or you purchased an aftermarket unit without an O-ring installed.
If it is in fact lodged in the delivery pipe, you should be easily able to remove it.

Remember, it's a fuel injected tractor motor with 1986 technology. Always check the simple things first.
 
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cruiserhound said:
I will try this resetting of the ECU you speak of....is it relevent if I have the 3FE?
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The 3FE is first generation EFI under ECU control. The ECU will store errors, "learn" from sensor feedback, and make adjustments according to it's programming.
I like to reset the ECU when I do anything from sensor replacement to a simple tune-up. It will clear any stored codes and allow the ECU to "relearn" all of the parameters. This will prevent you from chasing your tail with a "phantom" issue. I do it on my 97 LX450 as well.

When your computer gets stupid, you reboot it. Same concept for the ECU. Simply pull the 15 amp EFI fuse in the fuse box under the hood on the left fender for about 5 minutes.
 
jonheld said:
This is screaming, "torn intake plenum" to me. If there's a crack/tear in the bellows of the intake plenum, when you apply torque in reverse the tear will open up. This allows unmetered air into the system and will cause rough idle. If the tear is severe enough, the motor will stall.

Any unmetered air entering the system will cause rough idle. Check the common items first. The entire upper half of the motor must be air tight or you will have rough idle.

Valve cover gasket
valve cover grommets
PCV valve and grommet
oil fill cap o-ring
oil dipstick o-ring
side cover gasket

THEN you can start looking for other vacuum leaks. Please read this document.
http://www.sdsysdesign.com/tlc/images/Strife/3FE TuneUp.pdf

The series of hard vacuum lines on the left side of the motor are also likely clogged with carbon deposits and/or debris from the EGR valve and regulator. They have internal diaphragms that disintegrate over time.

As far as the missing O-ring from the FPR, that lives on the delivery pipe to the FPR, not the return feed. I suspect it popped off during removal or you purchased an aftermarket unit without an O-ring installed.
If it is in fact lodged in the delivery pipe, you should be easily able to remove it.

Remember, it's a fuel injected tractor motor with 1986 technology. Always check the simple things first.
Click to expand...
Awesome information, Jon, thank you. I will be checking all of these items and will read the attached link. Regarding the o-ring, it was there when I installed it. It went in really tight and after I installed it was leaking like a sieve, but maybe it came off when I was trying to install it and it isn't even in the fuel rail. Thanks again!
 
jonheld said:
This is screaming, "torn intake plenum" to me. If there's a crack/tear in the bellows of the intake plenum, when you apply torque in reverse the tear will open up. This allows unmetered air into the system and will cause rough idle. If the tear is severe enough, the motor will stall.

Any unmetered air entering the system will cause rough idle. Check the common items first. The entire upper half of the motor must be air tight or you will have rough idle.

Valve cover gasket
valve cover grommets
PCV valve and grommet
oil fill cap o-ring
oil dipstick o-ring
side cover gasket

THEN you can start looking for other vacuum leaks. Please read this document.
http://www.sdsysdesign.com/tlc/images/Strife/3FE TuneUp.pdf

The series of hard vacuum lines on the left side of the motor are also likely clogged with carbon deposits and/or debris from the EGR valve and regulator. They have internal diaphragms that disintegrate over time.

As far as the missing O-ring from the FPR, that lives on the delivery pipe to the FPR, not the return feed. I suspect it popped off during removal or you purchased an aftermarket unit without an O-ring installed.
If it is in fact lodged in the delivery pipe, you should be easily able to remove it.

Remember, it's a fuel injected tractor motor with 1986 technology. Always check the simple things first.
Click to expand...
I replaced all of the vacuum lines with oem hose. None of the hoses were clogged, but you can tell they have been there for a long time. Since the rubber hoses are clear I suspect the hard lines are ok too? Should I check the hard lines? Is there a good technique for checking/cleaning them? I also reset the ecu. Someone earlier said I had to disconnect the battery, turn the key to on and press the brake pedal. Your technique seems better or should I disconnect, turn the key and press the brake too? She is running better overall since I did your recommendations, thanks!
 
cruiserhound said:
I replaced all of the vacuum lines with oem hose. None of the hoses were clogged, but you can tell they have been there for a long time. Since the rubber hoses are clear I suspect the hard lines are ok too? Should I check the hard lines? Is there a good technique for checking/cleaning them? I also reset the ecu. Someone earlier said I had to disconnect the battery, turn the key to on and press the brake pedal. Your technique seems better or should I disconnect, turn the key and press the brake too? She is running better overall since I did your recommendations, thanks!
Click to expand...
The hard lines are the ones that tend to clog. I used some solid wire and WD40 to clear them out. I did have a very solid clog on one that required a small drill bit to break it up.

Turn the key, step on the brake, while swinging a live chicken over your head. Make sure the truck is facing Japan before you begin and whatever you do, don't wear any pants.

Pulling the EFI fuse removes +12 from the ECU. Same thing as removing a battery cable, but less invasive. Chicken is optional.
 
ward93 said:
Am I correct that with a desmog or deleted egr that the charcoal canister is also disabled?
Click to expand...
No. They are separate systems with completely different purposes.
 
The the evap system and egr system have seperate VSV's.
 
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"I put an end to my charcoal canister problems for good."
By LandCruiserPhil

Thread title that may help you.
 
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