Usual problem I had with horn failures was the relay rusting out. When I stop by we'll plug mine in and test. Also maybe corrosion in the steering column contacts, might explain the turn signals.
Fuel gauge and sending unit?
- Thread starter ouroutdoorfamily
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Coolerman
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The reason the # of bulbs make a difference is the OEM flasher is based on current THROUGH it.
It works like this: You hit the switch (Hazard or turn) and current flows from the battery through the switch to the flasher and on to the light(s) (causing them to light if they are good) and on to ground. This current flow starts heating up a bi-metal element in the flasher causing it to bend upwards. IF the current is high enough the element bends to the point that it breaks the circuit and the lights go off. It now cools, bending back until it makes contact again and you have a blinking light. They are designed to break the circuit when the current from TWO (or more) bulbs are flowing. If only one bulb on that side is working the light just comes on and stays on. This can be caused by bad grounds AT THE LIGHT HOUSING or the bulb socket can be corroded. The current can't flow if it can't get to ground.
Your horn is a HIGH current device. It has to have a good ground to work and all the connections in the horn circuit need to be clean. Start by making sure the horn itself has a good ground. Then verify that the fuse is the right value AND make sure the fuse contacts are clean. Next check the relay connections and of course the relay itself. Bypassing the relay is the fasted way to test both of those.
It works like this: You hit the switch (Hazard or turn) and current flows from the battery through the switch to the flasher and on to the light(s) (causing them to light if they are good) and on to ground. This current flow starts heating up a bi-metal element in the flasher causing it to bend upwards. IF the current is high enough the element bends to the point that it breaks the circuit and the lights go off. It now cools, bending back until it makes contact again and you have a blinking light. They are designed to break the circuit when the current from TWO (or more) bulbs are flowing. If only one bulb on that side is working the light just comes on and stays on. This can be caused by bad grounds AT THE LIGHT HOUSING or the bulb socket can be corroded. The current can't flow if it can't get to ground.
Your horn is a HIGH current device. It has to have a good ground to work and all the connections in the horn circuit need to be clean. Start by making sure the horn itself has a good ground. Then verify that the fuse is the right value AND make sure the fuse contacts are clean. Next check the relay connections and of course the relay itself. Bypassing the relay is the fasted way to test both of those.
do we know how the blinker/hazard/brake circuit was re-wired ? according to OEM diagram or was it done with some aftermarket harness ?
In addition to what Mark says, all bulbs may be working but they may simply be drawing insufficient current.
My 1979 uses 21W conventional bulbs as the four main blinker bulbs.
If I was to mistakenly fit lower wattage conventional bulbs (or fit LED-bulbs which always draw substantially less current than conventional bulbs), my blinkers would likely draw insufficient current to blink despite all "lighting up".
My 1979 uses 21W conventional bulbs as the four main blinker bulbs.
If I was to mistakenly fit lower wattage conventional bulbs (or fit LED-bulbs which always draw substantially less current than conventional bulbs), my blinkers would likely draw insufficient current to blink despite all "lighting up".
- Thread starter
- #25
We re-wired the FJ with the Painless Harness, but we were splicing in the new wire runs between the old connection points. This after taking the time with each wire to make sure that the "yellow wire toyota said went from A to B was being replaced with the Purple wire Painless said and then double checking it against the red wire that was actually in the removed harness, lol
It was a chore...
It was a chore...
- Thread starter
- #27
thanks for the encouragment..... :-( (Im in the back of the garage crying)
Poser has an enchanting personality
the connections between the hazard/blinker/brake lights need to be similar to the OEM diagram or your Toyota switches will not work - the Painless harness misses some of those connections
I don't know whether the newer Painless products all have the same wire colors, but I made myself drawings for each circuit - if you need info, PM me in the next three days
basically you'll have to check for presence of every step in that connected circuit
back to fuel guage and sending unit question
I bought the repalcement tank and sending unit from cool cruisers. I heard that the sending units that cc sells are not worth a darn so I thought I'd start there by replacing it first.
Does anyone know of a good brand or have a used original sending unit source?
I have to take the seat and cover off anyway because I'm getting fuel spilling on the floor board when I fill the tank. Don't know until I take it all out.
Thanks,
D Ray
I bought the repalcement tank and sending unit from cool cruisers. I heard that the sending units that cc sells are not worth a darn so I thought I'd start there by replacing it first.
Does anyone know of a good brand or have a used original sending unit source?
I have to take the seat and cover off anyway because I'm getting fuel spilling on the floor board when I fill the tank. Don't know until I take it all out.
Thanks,
D Ray
I wish my cruiser looked that good inside
On the turn signals, my problems were always in the front ones with grounds...I fought this for years (I bought my 78 new)...my solution was to run a separate ground wire to each turn signal...it easy to snake it through the sleeve that holds all the wires, ground it inside the fender and your good to go.
On the turn signals, my problems were always in the front ones with grounds...I fought this for years (I bought my 78 new)...my solution was to run a separate ground wire to each turn signal...it easy to snake it through the sleeve that holds all the wires, ground it inside the fender and your good to go.
