Was it a bad idea to drill into an FRP top for roof rack needs? Work performed by Front Runner
FRP top. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter ardnez
- Start date
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Hi
Well, it pretty much depends on what they did to seal the holes and to spread the load and probably tidy up the roof liner. Certain more engineering than just a hole, a bold and some washers is required to make this work properly. But it's doable. Any detailed pics?
Cheers Ralf
Well, it pretty much depends on what they did to seal the holes and to spread the load and probably tidy up the roof liner. Certain more engineering than just a hole, a bold and some washers is required to make this work properly. But it's doable. Any detailed pics?
Cheers Ralf
FJBen
SILVER Star
I would say depends…
On how the work was done and how fragile your top is. They are getting pretty old and brittle so any new holes “could” cause issues.
On how the work was done and how fragile your top is. They are getting pretty old and brittle so any new holes “could” cause issues.
The frp tops are a lot stronger then most people give them credit . I have seen several with home made roofracks that traveled around the world severely overloaded and survived .
- Thread starter
- #7
I will post detailed images tomorrow, but basically its 2 rails near the edge of the roof that were drilled and the rack can come off if needed but the rails are fixed in. So far its been 7 months and no rattle and we had the heaviest rainstorm ever recorded in the city i live in of 1.36 billion gallons of rain water within an hour and no leaks but was wondering on y’alls opinion of drilling into it.
- Thread starter
- #8
it mounts to the rails that are fixed in. show you tomorrow.
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #9
I will post detailed shots tomorrow, thank you for the input.
My Front Runner roof rack is mounted in the same way to my 2001 HZJ74 with FRP-top.
The previous owner fitted it and travelled for 6 months in Africa with a rooftop tent on top of it. I plan to do the same.
The FRP-top does not show any sign of fatigue, cracking or swaying, and as more people say on forums, these FRP-tops are stronger than we think.
Having said that, this is about your personal confidence in your car and what the FRP-top can handle. If you are not at ease with current installation, you could think of changing to an exo-cage solution, add a roll-cage inside or you could keeping the current track mounts and add two gutter mounts to the gutter above the back door. Or a combination of any of these solutions.
The previous owner fitted it and travelled for 6 months in Africa with a rooftop tent on top of it. I plan to do the same.
The FRP-top does not show any sign of fatigue, cracking or swaying, and as more people say on forums, these FRP-tops are stronger than we think.
Having said that, this is about your personal confidence in your car and what the FRP-top can handle. If you are not at ease with current installation, you could think of changing to an exo-cage solution, add a roll-cage inside or you could keeping the current track mounts and add two gutter mounts to the gutter above the back door. Or a combination of any of these solutions.
- Thread starter
- #11
here it is.
Hi
Ah. It's kind of a cargo rail, which is mounted across the edge of the FRP top, where it is actually flat.
That might work if (!) the top rail is actually properly glued to the outside of the FRP top.
I recently had a conversation with a professional who installs airline cargo rails to RVs (kind a similar plastic stuff) as I'm considering something similar for my FRP top. He said, the actually distribution of force is all based on the adhesive, which is very strong, if done correctly. Key is a proper thickness of the adhesive bed of about 4mm, to allow movement, plus a proper preparation of the surface. They use SIKA products here in Germany. They actually use self tapping screws (but some more), basically only to provide an even and controlled downforce during curing. (The screws actually do not contribute to the strength, so they could even removed those afterwards, if not that would create a hole and leak).
Bolting on that cargo rail on those few spots with only washers however would not holdup, I think, due to lack of distribution of forces.
But I'd be pretty confident the guys at Front Runner know what they're doing and glued it down.
Cheers Ralf
Ah. It's kind of a cargo rail, which is mounted across the edge of the FRP top, where it is actually flat.
That might work if (!) the top rail is actually properly glued to the outside of the FRP top.
I recently had a conversation with a professional who installs airline cargo rails to RVs (kind a similar plastic stuff) as I'm considering something similar for my FRP top. He said, the actually distribution of force is all based on the adhesive, which is very strong, if done correctly. Key is a proper thickness of the adhesive bed of about 4mm, to allow movement, plus a proper preparation of the surface. They use SIKA products here in Germany. They actually use self tapping screws (but some more), basically only to provide an even and controlled downforce during curing. (The screws actually do not contribute to the strength, so they could even removed those afterwards, if not that would create a hole and leak).
Bolting on that cargo rail on those few spots with only washers however would not holdup, I think, due to lack of distribution of forces.
But I'd be pretty confident the guys at Front Runner know what they're doing and glued it down.
Cheers Ralf
Billyfj7312ht
Should only take ten minutes
Would be very strong. The bolts through the legs are compressing the runner like a plate to help spread the load over the roof and if a transport sealant or similar was used would also add strength and help seal the holes. The skin on these are thick and with the foam centre makes them quite rigid.
If anything I'd be inclined to be rid of those internal washes and use a nice anodised strip of full length aluminium even it it only imprves the appearance.
