Front wheel bearings - replace or repack?

[Aggiesdm]

HI all, I had my truck on stands the other day and noticed the there is some play in the front wheel bearings. I'm wondering if I need to replace or if I can just repack/retorque them and get by for a while? I am going to rebuild the knuckles soon, but budget/time dictate that it'll have to wait a while. I'm not getting any road wobble or noise and if I hadn't put them on stands I wouldn't have noticed it. Just a very slight movement on both of them. Maybe 1/32's of an inch? Thoughts?

 

[devildogcruiser25]

If you are going do a full rebuild soon, you should be ok with repacking them. But you should do the axle sooner rather than later.

 

[Aggiesdm]

If you are going do a full rebuild soon, you should be ok with repacking them. But you should do the axle sooner rather than later.

Yeah, thats kind of my plan. I'm gonna try to get a 54mm socket from Norther Tools today and see if I can repack them. Will that eliminate some of the play in the short term?

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I replaced mine the first time I had it opened up since I didn't know the history from then PO. Wheels were loose as well. I was doing complete rebuild at that time as well.

 

[livinoffroad]

The bearing set is oversized/overbuilt for the application, thus the long life. That said, the determining factor regarding whether to replace or repack, should be the wear on the race surface, and the roller surfaces. Clean them well, or just wipe them off enough to see (with magnifier) if the roller surface and the race surface is still shiny. If it's dull or pitted, replace. If still shiny, there's enough of the hardened wear surface to repack, and go again.

 

[Aggiesdm]

Thanks, and I think that's a good approach. I've never opened them up before, so other than the 54mm socket, is there any special tool that I need? Do they just sit in the rotor or do I need a press?

 

[Tools R Us]

The bearing set is oversized/overbuilt for the application, thus the long life. That said, the determining factor regarding whether to replace or repack, should be the wear on the race surface, and the roller surfaces. Clean them well, or just wipe them off enough to see (with magnifier) if the roller surface and the race surface is still shiny. If it's dull or pitted, replace. If still shiny, there's enough of the hardened wear surface to repack, and go again.

^^^This. They are very durable, if even casually maintained, can be lifetime parts. Always keep track and reinstall the bearings in the same location, in the race it was broken in on.

 

[Reelitchy]

Northern tool only had a shallow socket when I went there and it will not clear the spindle. Napa ordered the tool for me and had it the next day for 15.00. Part number kd 3912 (55mm six point)Yes I ended up buying two. Also note the amount of threads showing when you remove the hub because when I installed one hub and torqued it I noticed it wasn't fully seated. Removed the hub and found the spring on the seal got caught .

 

[Reelitchy]

Oh yes borrow the race/seal driver kit from the parts store - the seals can be a bear to install

 

[Aggiesdm]

Thanks for all the input. I guess I need to get a new oil seal if I'm going to repack the bearings. Is this correct?

 

[aviator31]

If the axles were serviced/rebuilt in the last 15k miles, is there a need to remove and re-grease/pack everything? I have some play in mine and I'm curious if I can just tighten them.

 

[CruiseOrlando]

You'll need some gaskets/seals to do the job to replace the old ones. You can't remove the inner bearing without taking out the oil seal, and you can't take it out without destroying it - so you need to replace it (at a minimum) along with some of the other paper gaskets. Having a seal puller is helpful.

Refer to @DARKNESS cheat sheet - it's a wonderful thing - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/front-axle-cheatsheet.752382/ - at a minimum grab a spare of each of the items with a black diamond that you plan on taking apart.

I have the deep socket 54mm from Northern... it's *barely* able to get in there, but it works.

Your wheel play could also be from bad preload.

 

[devildogcruiser25]

Thanks, and I think that's a good approach. I've never opened them up before, so other than the 54mm socket, is there any special tool that I need? Do they just sit in the rotor or do I need a press?

Don't forget a brass drift. I bought my 54mm, drift and seal puller on amazon pretty cheap. 54mm is from trail gear I think.

 

[Tools R Us]

If the axles were serviced/rebuilt in the last 15k miles, is there a need to remove and re-grease/pack everything? I have some play in mine and I'm curious if I can just tighten them.

If the grease is good, it's acceptable to just reset the preload, we do it often. I always pop the outer bearing and have a look/see.

 

[livinoffroad]

Thanks, and I think that's a good approach. I've never opened them up before, so other than the 54mm socket, is there any special tool that I need? Do they just sit in the rotor or do I need a press?

I have the OTC 54mm socket, cuz it's deep enough. Should be available @ amazon. I use a pull spring scale, http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CLX9IWA/?tag=ihco-20 like they recommend in the FSM, to set preload. That method has seemed to hold up well for me.
Oh, and, be careful when re-installing the rotor assy. back on the spindle. If you hit the spindle with the inner seal on the way back in, there's a good chance you will flip the seal spring off, or even worse, part way off, trapping it between the spindle seal wear surface, and the seal, causing it to wear a huge groove in the spindle shoulder, which will require a new spindle ($200+) and seal, and labor to re-do. Ask me how I know.

 

[aviator31]

If the grease is good, it's acceptable to just reset the preload, we do it often. I always pop the outer bearing and have a look/see.

Thanks. Just tighten snugly then back off slightly or do I have to go buy scales and all that rigamarole?

 

[Tools R Us]

Thanks. Just tighten snugly then back off slightly or do I have to go buy scales and all that rigamarole?

I just torque the inner nut to 30ft/lb and do the rest by the book.

 

[Timpanogos Slim]

oh, and always have a replacement set of lock nuts & etc when you go in. not because they have to be replaced, but because chances are some dip**** has beaten on the last set with hammer and screwdriver.

 

[Reelitchy]

oh, and always have a replacement set of lock nuts & etc when you go in. not because they have to be replaced, but because chances are some dip**** has beaten on the last set with hammer and screwdriver.

lol yes, mine had some nice big craters in it where they "torqued" it with a hammer and chisel.

 

[Mr Cimarron]

I got everything I needed from Amazon as well. Love my Amazon Prime.