Front suspension question (1 Viewer)

[Pucker5]

After replacing my rear shocks with new iron man fcps my 03 lc is still riding like a safari mobile. Took it to a shop that deals in suspension and they reviewed all my componentry and as I suspected everything is good (not worn or broken).

Where he did indicate something less than normal is is only about 1”-1.5” of exposed shock body where the plastic shock body protector ends and where the bottom of the shock body becomes the bottom shock. Basically, he indicated that the shock was too long.

I’m at 22.00 in the rear and 21.0 in the front center hub to fender

Anyone to validate or disagree with the shops diagnosis.

 

[jLB]

Considering that you really don’t change the amount of travel, by installing a taller (or in the OME 866 case slightly stiffer) rear spring, and assuming that you’re using the correct IM FC part for the 100 series, I find their conclusion unlikely.

From your signature, it sounds like you’re a lightweight both front & rear?

 

[Pucker5]

Considering that you really don’t change the amount of travel, by installing a taller (or in the OME 866 case slightly stiffer) rear spring, and assuming that you’re using the correct IM FC part for the 100 series, I find their conclusion unlikely.

From your signature, it sounds like you’re a lightweight both front & rear?

Yep, appx 250-300 lbs in the rear constant (31agm battery,subs, enclosure) and sliders

 

[jLB]

Yep, appx 250-300 lbs in the rear constant (31agm battery,subs, enclosure) and sliders

Thread title is “Front Suspension Question”, but unless I’m misreading, it seems that you’re asking about the rear?

 

[Pucker5]

Thread title is “Front Suspension Question”, but unless I’m misreading, it seems that you’re asking about the rear?

Asking about front , but your questions steered me to provide comprehensive weight details just to provide clearest picture.

 

[jLB]

I’m assuming that you’re running the OE (non-AHC) torsion bars in your signature.

On my DD 06 LX, I went through multiple suspension iterations, to get it “just so”.

As it currently sits (and the front is “cushy” enough to be comfortable):

OE non-AHC torsion bars.
1.5” Dual Range rear coils (similar specs to OME 866).
Extended sway bar links.
Dobinsons IMS extended length front shocks.
Dobinsons MRA adjustable rear shocks.
Nitro UCAs.
Diff Drop.
275/70R18 BFG KO2s on stock wheels.
Metaltech 4x4 sliders.

The different things that I went through to get the front “right”:

Torsion bars too thick/stiff for weight. (32mm).
Shocks too short, not enough droop left.
Shocks valved too stiff.

If it were mine… OE torsion bars should be fine. I suspect shock length should be fine, but I’d check how much droop you have, at current height. I’ve never owned the FCP shocks, but I’ve ridden in quite a few 100 series with them, and they seemed valved OK (much better than OME, but not quite as good as Dobinsons). A number of people have mentioned that the extended sway bar links help, but I can’t vouch for that, as mine were installed when there were other issues. If all else fails, try dropping the front 1/2” or so.

 

[Pucker5]

I’m assuming that you’re running the OE (non-AHC) torsion bars in your signature.

On my DD 06 LX, I went through multiple suspension iterations, to get it “just so”.

As it currently sits (and the front is “cushy” enough to be comfortable):

OE non-AHC torsion bars.
1.5” Dual Range rear coils (similar specs to OME 866).
Extended sway bar links.
Dobinsons IMS extended length front shocks.
Dobinsons MRA adjustable rear shocks.
Nitro UCAs.
Diff Drop.
275/70R18 BFG KO2s on stock wheels.
Metaltech 4x4 sliders.

The different things that I went through to get the front “right”:

Torsion bars too thick/stiff for weight. (32mm).
Shocks too short, not enough droop left.
Shocks valved too stiff.

If it were mine… OE torsion bars should be fine. I suspect shock length should be fine, but I’d check how much droop you have, at current height. I’ve never owned the FCP shocks, but I’ve ridden in quite a few 100 series with them, and they seemed valved OK (much better than OME, but not quite as good as Dobinsons). A number of people have mentioned that the extended sway bar links help, but I can’t vouch for that, as mine were installed when there were other issues. If all else fails, try dropping the front 1/2” or so.

Thank you for the input. So my springs, shocks, tb adjustment, and alignment all happened quite a while ago at the same time and the ride was good. Stiff but preferred over factory with some very subtle front end behavior…consistent with a front end at approaching 21 center hub to fender (nearly 2” higher than factory since 19 is what I’m reading on different posts is factory/stock)

I’m perplexed that ride got worse for no reason, if the ride got s***ty after I cranked the tb’s I would understand.

Can shock valving slowly Fail?
I’m tempted to throw on oem’s in the front if I don’t get back something positive from ironman.

 

[jLB]

Thank you for the input. So my springs, shocks, tb adjustment, and alignment all happened quite a while ago at the same time and the ride was good. Stiff but preferred over factory with some very subtle front end behavior…consistent with a front end at approaching 21 center hub to fender (nearly 2” higher than factory since 19 is what I’m reading on different posts is factory/stock)

I’m perplexed that ride got worse for no reason, if the ride got s***ty after I cranked the tb’s I would understand.

Can shock valving slowly Fail?
I’m tempted to throw on oem’s in the front if I don’t get back something positive from ironman.

So, if I’m reading correctly, it only changed, when you replaced the rear shocks?

 

[Pucker5]

So, if I’m reading correctly, it only changed, when you replaced the rear shocks?

No it was bad before that, I switched the rears because the rear foam cells (not pro) went bad

 

[jLB]

I’m perplexed that ride got worse for no reason, if the ride got s***ty after I cranked the tb’s I would understand.

A bad bushing or ball joint?

 

[Pucker5]

They all got checked

 

[Pucker5]

Update finally. For 20.5-21 hub to fender measurements my foamcell pros were only enabling like .5-1” of downtravel. Put on oems and the truck rides like a dream. Little bit more lateral roll then I want but hopefully front bumpstops and spacers stabilizes that a bit

Btw, have a full set of ironman fcp’s with 15k on the fronts and brand new just installed rears (less than 200 miles). Will sell for cheap. HMU with an offer

 

[Pucker5]

Update: I decided to keep the fcp rears in. I have a front set of fcp’s with less than 20k miles on em for 60$ plus shipping. It’s a get em out my garage special…hopefully