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Front rotors removal...

Discussion in '80-Series Tech' started by sjcruiser, Oct 15, 2003.

  1. sjcruiser

    sjcruiser

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    Hi all,

    I'd want to remove the front rotors (to be turned - less than 1 yr old) to put in 100 pads. Any one have the torque specs needed for this job ? IIRC, only the wheel bearings that need to be removed (in comparison the rear rotors removal). Is it true ? Any special tools besides the hub SST ?

    Thanks,
    Frank.
     
  2. moralien

    moralien

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    Fire in the hole
     
  3. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Frank,
    All the torque specs are in your FSM (you *do* have one don't you.) If not then place an order with C-Dan or the 800 number for ordering Toyota manuals.

    In the meantime, you can get all the torque specs from Jim's birfield repack article posted in the tech section. I'm pretty sure they are all in there.
    -B-
     
  4. sjcruiser

    sjcruiser

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    Beowulf,

    I DO have the FSM; just haven't found it yet in the moving boxes :'( :'( :'( !!!
    I'd use Jim's post most likely.

    Nick,

    It was hard dealing with Lexus service - by the time the advisor get my message to check the front rotors, the axle had already been re-assembled ::)

    Regards,
    Frank.
     
  5. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Frank,
    It looks like his instructions are missing a few torque specs:
    Lower knuckle bolts
    Rotor to hub bolts
    ABS Sensor bolts

    I'll looks these up when I get home tonight and post them for you if someone doesn't beat me to it. You're going about it the right way... getting proper torque specs and being prepared for the install.

    BTW, you will *love* the 100 series pads.

    -B-
     
  6. Riley

    Riley

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    I'm planning on installing new pads shortly. Just getting the order ready for C-Dan.

    What's the consense on the 100 pads? Sounds like -B likes them.

    What's the advantage? They work better?

    I wasn't planning on turning the rotors (given other threads I've read on here). Is that required when changing to the 100 series pads?


    I assume that I can run the 100 pads on the front and 80 pads on the rear correct?
     
  7. cruiserdan

    cruiserdan SupportingVendor Emeritus Moderator

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    Riley,

    Yup. 100's front, 80's rear. The rotors will need to be turned or replaced when going to the 100 series pads. The contact area or foot print is different and the pads should be bedded on a fresh surface.
    It appears that the 100 series pads last much longer and "feel" about the same (at least to me).

    D-
     
  8. moralien

    moralien

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    [quote author=Beowulf link=board=2;threadid=6360;start=msg51347#msg51347 date=1066259974]
    Frank,
    It looks like his instructions are missing a few torque specs:
    Lower knuckle bolts
    Rotor to hub bolts
    ABS Sensor bolts
    [/quote]

    Lower knuckle bolts = Not really sure why you need these but all 4 are 71 lbf. These are the 4 cone washers and bolts that hold the steering arm to the lower knuckle.
    Rotor to hub bolts = 47ft lbf
    ABS sensor bolts = 13ft lbf
     
  9. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Nick,
    He won't need them for the rotor swap but we need to get Jim to add them to his tech section post for completeness.
    -B-
     
  10. sjcruiser

    sjcruiser

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    Given I just had the front axle serviced...Does this job limit to only outer bearings repacking only ? i.e., I just need to separate the hub from the rotors without touching the inner seal & bearing ? (Thus special tools needed would only be the hub socket, the snap ring plier, & the spring scale)

    Please advise,
    Frank.
     
  11. Safado

    Safado

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    SJCRUISER-

    Just did similar job this weekend, but I was after the wheel bearings in particular. From what I could tell (slap me around if I'm wrong, :slap: that's the way I learn best) but you shouldn't have to touch the wheel bearing assembly in order to remove the rotor. Feel free to do it if you want though...just not necesssary form my persprctive. Once you remove the tire, and caliper, just remove the 6 bolts that hold the rotor on and you're done. The only thing is if you're just going to have them turned, it was advised to make an alighment mark on the hub assembly and rotor so that you can line them up properly again.

    Here's a snipit of Jim's write up I had questions on....

    ...
    Torque inner nut 3 ft/lbs (48 in/lbs!)
    Check that bearing has no play
    Measure preload w/tension spring (6-12 lb)
    Install lock washer & lock nut
    Torque outer lock nut (47 ft/lb)
    ...

    So are you supposed to leave the inner torqued at 3 lbs? ???


    Let the beatings begin! :'(
     
  12. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    >> So are you supposed to leave the inner torqued at 3 lbs? <<

    Yes, but you left out an important step. You first seat the bearing by torquing the inner nut to 47 ft/lb, then you back off and snug it up. This is referred to as setting the bearing pre-load.

    Also, I don't think you can remove the front rotor as you described. The rears yes, but not the front.

    -B-
     
  13. PHAEDRUS

    PHAEDRUS

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    Didnlt sound right to me either but chalked it up to paint fumes.
    if memory serves you can detach the rotor by using the six bolts as mentioned but its not going to come off the center as it mounts behind it. a good point to make though is to brake those 6 bolts loose before removing the rotor assy as they are difficult to break loose while holding on the ground(go ahead ask how I know.
    Dave
     
  14. IdahoDoug

    IdahoDoug

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    It's the REAR rotor that comes off without the hub. It's held in place with the wheel lugnut pressure only.

    Doug
     
  15. Safado

    Safado

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    Thanks for the heads up on the front rotors...but I'm confused with what B said. So I have a buddy of mine with an 80 and a 60 FSM. The 80 is a 91 and the 60 is an 84. The 60 manual agrees with what was in Jim's write-up, but the 80 FSM differs. Heres the page, this is the final steps of setting the preload. Is this wrong? Why? Did it change with the FZJ80? I wouldn't think so. Can someone scan it out of their FSM as mine is still on the way? Thanks
     
  16. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Safado,
    Step (g) has a misprint on the units conversion. The metric units are correct but it should say 48 in/lbs. Other than the misprint it appears to be identical to Jim's write-up and consistent with what I told you in the post above.
    -B-
     
  17. Riley

    Riley

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    Sorry but I don't have a scanner but just for clarity that manual is missing a couple things. Here's the shorten version of my 1995 FSM:

    - torque to 43 ft/lbs
    - turn the hub 2 or 3 times in each direction (makes sense to seat the bearing)
    - retorque to 43 ft/lbs
    - then lossen until it can turned by hand
    - using spring scale measure preload at 6.4 to 12.6 lbs
    - assuming if correct preload then install locknut and torque to 47 ft/lbs

    recheck preload.

    I'm not sure what the 60 FSM manual says (I gave away my old one when I sold my 60).

    Jeeze I hope my manual is correct. :doh:
     
  18. Beowulf

    Beowulf

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    Riley,
    Double check your FSM

    This is the proper procedure:
    - torque the adjusting nut to 43 ft/lbs
    - turn the hub right and left 2 or 3 times
    - torque the adjusting nut again to 43 ft/lbs
    - loosen the adjusting nut until it can turned by hand
    - torque the adjusting nut again to 48 in/lbs (4 ft/lbs)
    - check that the bearing has no play

    - using spring scale measure preload at 6.4 to 12.6 lbs
    - assuming correct preload then install locknut and torque to 47 ft/lbs
    - Check that the axle hub turns smoothly and that the bearing has no play
    - Check the preload with the spring scale (6.4 to 12.6 lbs)
    - If not in spec, basically start all over.
    - If in spec, secure the lock nut

    Safado,
    How long has your FSM been "on the way?"

    -B-
     
  19. Riley

    Riley

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    Jeeze -B: I don't recall the retorque to 48 inch/lbs or the checking for no play. I'm traveling for work for the next couple of days and can't check the manual.

    I'm not even sure if my torque wrench goes that low (4 ft/lbs).

    I remember for sure rechecking the preload so I assume that the nut is not too tight BUT perhaps it might be too loose. :-\

    I guess I'll be banging off those cone washers again this upcoming weekend. I wanted to recheck the preload anyway.

    Riley
     
  20. Safado

    Safado

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    Thanks B,

    The FSM should be arriving to CDAN anytime now and then he's going to send it on to me. So my neighbors FSM is wrong huh...he's going to love that one. So yesterday when I talked to CDAN and read Jim's and your posts...everything made sense, but then my neighbor and I got into it because he follows it "BY THE BOOK" and that's what his book said. He actually made the copies and drove them over to my house at 10 p.m. I figured it must be wrong from every other place that I've read and everyone else that I talked to...just seems that would be a pretty bad mis-print for Toyota not to fix. Was there ever a new FSM for 91?