Front rotors removal... (1 Viewer)

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the 100 pads........CDan, can I get a part number for the front's from you? The dealership here argued me down that the 100 pads would NOT fit the '96 LX, although he did sell me some TRD ones

Also, y'all give me you thoughts / PN / Availability on ceramics....going to do the fronts this weekend.
 
Safado,

I have access to a scanner at work but my 97 FSM is at home. That's the reason I asked about the FSM you have on the way. I will try to remember to bring in mymanual tomorrow and scan those pages and post. I'm pretty sure the above verbiage is correct as I double checked it before posting.

-B-
 
BK,

Quoted from C-dan:

Front: 04465-60020

Rear: 04466-60020

Optional front, 100 series (requires resurfacing or replacing rotors): 04465-60151

===============

Got the pads from Dan, they fit!!!
 
Thanks B,

I gave up on my scanner after buying a digital camera...faster and many more uses. :D :D
 
97 hub install pages I hope. With Woody's site redirection and my firewall I can't see any pics or the gifs. I hope this doesn't make a mess as I'm out the door.
Bill
 
Hope this is what you wanted.
 
How did everyone else tighten the inner bolt (since it's only 4ft/lbs) ? I don't have the micro torque wrench so my approach is to make it a little more than finger tight (1/4 of a turn); would that work ?

Frank.
 
Frank,
You need an inch lb. torque wrench. IIRC, 12 in lbs. = 1 ft lb. so 4 ft lbs. = 48 in lbs. Much easier to see and pull the torque on the wrench. Different jobs - different sizes. FWIW, They also make torque multipliers when you get into the bigger stuff.
Bill
 
I used a 1 foot breaker bar, and put about 5 lbs pressure on it with my fingers. If you wanted to be exact, put about 2/3 gallon of water in a plastic jug and use it as a weight, or some other household 4 lb item..

Doug (really tired of typing "Idaho" in front of my name..)
 
48 in-lb is easy without a torque wrench. Make your own. Mark your ratchet handle 10 inches from the pivot. Hook your fish scale over the mark and pull on the scale until it reads 4.8 pounds. You're done.

David
 
Ok,

So here's the word. (As it was explained to me by CDAN)

What you are trying to accomplish in this exercise is to set the bearings, and set the preload. THE PRELOAD IS THE KEY. You want the end result after placing the lock washer in the final step to be 6-12 lbs on the fish scale. So the adjusting nut needs to be set as tight as is necessary to give you the right preload. 4 in/lbs might not get you there and you may need to torque it a bit more. Then you set the lock washer and nut and check it again...if it's not between 6-12 lbs, start over again until you get it. The adjusting nut needs to be in the right spot to maintain the preload, it's the locking nut and washer that hold everything in place.

Did I get it Dan?
 
Hello all,

Brought the detached rotors in today on the way to work, the shop requires that the (empty) hubs to be attached as well; and I left them at home :( Anywhoo, I could ask someone to bring the hubs in, but the shop wants to charge ~$90 to remove the inner bearings to turn the rotors & replace the inner seals. Does this sound right ? Should I better off going with new rotors then ?

My rotors are only 1yr old, but warped (new 100 pads (2 wks old) worsen the steering shake due to larger braking surface), thus wanting them the be turned instead.

Please advise! I don't want my wife DD stucked in the garage.

Thanks,
Frank.

P.S.: BTW, any shops that are capable of turning rotors without the hubs ? The above mentioned shop said they are needed for perfect alignment on the turning machine.
 
Well it sounds like I had the same problem you did. I took the rotors completely off and took them in yesterday to have them turned and he told me I needed the hub on with the inner bearings pulled out but the races left in. today I took them back after installing the hub. They are going to pull the seal off the inner and the beraing, but he is not goin gto charge for that. Should be real easy to pull the seal off. I just checked with Auto Zone and the seal is like $3. I did find out that i need to get a new gasket where the hub cover goes on the cover the bearing. The one with little cone washers on it. Man that thing was a real pain to get off.


Tim
 
Tim,

The Toyota dealer close to my work place is greedy - They ask for >$16 + tax for each grease seal (while Dan's book shows $12.02).

That cone washer was a PITA to remove (did not have the brass drift :( )

Frank.

P.S: How do I remove the inner grease seal ? Using a chisel/screwdriver to knock it off from the other side ?
 
Not to hijack, but I was talking with the PO of my truck last weekend. It is the wife of my dentist who did not even know her truck had the lockers....hehehehe. (she also said she did all of the maintenance on the truck).

She mentioned that she received a questionaire in the mail from Toyota regarding the brakes and premature failure of the rotors. Does anyone know about this notice?????? What is the intent????
 
I got the inner seal of in a snap using a small hammer. Put the claw under it and pull back. Move it around a few times and it pops off quick. I paid less for the inner seal, just depend on if you want to wait for shipping for it to get to you. Time is money.

p.s. Set of two brass drifts is like 4 bucks at Harbor Freight. You can also just give then a few taps right on top of the hub, and they pop that way too. I think that was in George's write up.
 
Tenn
There was a thread on this a few weeks ago. Do a search on "class action" or something like that.
-B-
 
I am picking up my rotors after work today. I guess I will be spending my Friday night putting them back on and having FUN at that. I have to get the thing back together before my wife returns from her trip. I let you know how it went.


Tim
 
Safado,

Thanks for the tip on removing the grease seals (saved me $50 :) )

Tim,

I dropped the rotors off this morning (cost me $30 bucks to turn them). Also planning on working on it tonight as well (under wife & 9mo. old daughter's supervision)

cheers,
Frank.
 

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