Can an expert or veteran tell me what I missed or what I'm doing wrong? I'm doing a front bearing replacement and front brake job on my LX470 and the rotor/hub will not come loose. I've removed the dust cap, outer axle nut, castle nut, inner axle nut, and cone washers, but it still is pretty firmly attached. In the videos I watched it should all come loose at this point. Did I skip something? Pics below of where I'm at:
Front Rotor Stuck
- Thread starter NVDuckin
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Only thing holding it on now is rust. Will you be reusing the rotor? If not then go to town by hammering in the surface of it all the way around it and that should break it free
2001LC
SILVER Star
Hard to see in picture, if lock washer and adjusting nut are both off. After hub flange removed. We have lock nut (54mm), lock washer, adjusting nut (54mm), claw washer. If both nuts off, the claw washer can by jamb hold on the wheel hub.
2001LC
SILVER Star
You should not need to hammer off wheel hub. It should just pull off. The bearings can get stuck on spindle, but still should be able to pull off. Keep wheel hub square to the spindle may help.
Note:
Rotor is attached to wheel hub.
See installing make make clearer, in how it's set up.
Note:
Rotor is attached to wheel hub.
See installing make make clearer, in how it's set up.
- Thread starter
- #7
Yeah, I've done all that and it's not just pulling off. That's one of 5ish videos I've watched. Is it possible that the claw washer is crooked or jammed?
*Edit: That was it, the claw washer tab had slid around. Came right off after I got it aligned.
Is now a good time to grease the spindle while it's fully exposed? Or do I still need to do the push method to properly grease? I assume this whole process is much easier the second time around.
*Edit: That was it, the claw washer tab had slid around. Came right off after I got it aligned.
Is now a good time to grease the spindle while it's fully exposed? Or do I still need to do the push method to properly grease? I assume this whole process is much easier the second time around.
Last edited:
2001LC
SILVER Star
If you're asking about the axle bearing & bushing in back of steering knuckle. PM on that is every 30K miles, just like wheel bearings. With hub flange snap ring off, you can push axle back into spindle and get some grease on bushing from back. But that does a very poor job of getting into the axle bearing.
I like too pull steering knuckle first time in. Then I can clean, recondition, inspect, reseal & grease.
~2 min mark.
After my first time into the knuckle. I come back each 30K miles and use my Slee spindle grease tool. It forces grease inside the spindle and pass the axle bearing and bushing. Some in mud make a spindle grease tool out of PVC pipe and cap.
I like too pull steering knuckle first time in. Then I can clean, recondition, inspect, reseal & grease.
~2 min mark.
After my first time into the knuckle. I come back each 30K miles and use my Slee spindle grease tool. It forces grease inside the spindle and pass the axle bearing and bushing. Some in mud make a spindle grease tool out of PVC pipe and cap.
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Do you happen to know the specs on the size of PVC cap that is needed?
2001LC
SILVER Star
My Slee tool is ~37-38mm ID.
Search around mud. Someone posted detail on what & how IIRC.
Search around mud. Someone posted detail on what & how IIRC.
How-To Video DIY Spindle bearing greasing tool w/o touching wheel bearing preload
Hey guys, I made a simple DIY tool that you can make for under $3 USD to grease your spindle bearings without messing with the wheel bearing lock nut, lock washer, or wheel bearing pre-load. This is great for annual services between wheel bearing repacks. The video is linked down below and it...
forum.ih8mud.com
Just a question, Did you remove the washer with the tab (claw washer: see above parts diagram) located between the inner locking nut and the outer race?
I sometimes find it rolled a little into threads on a knuckle
I sometimes find it rolled a little into threads on a knuckle
- Thread starter
- #13
Yes, this was exactly it the claw washer hat rotated funny and was covered in grease. After that it came right off. Right now I'm soaking it in PB blaster. 4 of the hub bolts popper right off with a breaker bar, but 1 is rusted on pretty tight. Hopefully I can get it off tomorrow.
Give a tap to the head of the rusted bolt with a metal hammer. Also try to spin a little clockwise to break loose rust.
2001LC
SILVER Star
Placing wheel hub back into the wheel/tire assembly with 3 lugs nuts on, makes great holder.
Make sure to use wood, plastic, brass or lead to pound wheel hub out of rotor/disk. By placing wood blocks under the rotor/disk than pound the wheel hub through.
forum.ih8mud.com
Make sure to use wood, plastic, brass or lead to pound wheel hub out of rotor/disk. By placing wood blocks under the rotor/disk than pound the wheel hub through.
Scored 2006LC w/194K GrayBeard
A.I wires and housing are connected next. I often find clips broke. It's the heat in this area that is very hard on housings and clips. In this case the clip that holds wire housing to water pipe was bad. I had one available, so I replaced it. I'll find ties or high heat tape holding stuff in...
forum.ih8mud.com
Apply anti seize on all 5 bolts that connects the hub to new rotor. I even applied a small film of antiseize to the mating surfaces.
2001LC
SILVER Star
I've never seen these bolts frozen in. What I have seen many times, is over torqued with impact wrench. The trick is to first have wheel hub secure so it does not move. Then use a large heavy breaker bar and extension. The tools must not flex, or bolt wins. I use 3/4 breaker bar and wheel/tire to secure, or my 1/2 impact wrench just on the bench to remove the bolts.
If anti seize applied, it acts as lubricate. In that event, torque should be reduced ~20%. That I'd not be comfortable with, here on rotors. I do not use anything on threads, other than cleaners/brushes. But I would be inclined to use a thread sealant over anit-seize, if I did. But that just me!
If anti seize applied, it acts as lubricate. In that event, torque should be reduced ~20%. That I'd not be comfortable with, here on rotors. I do not use anything on threads, other than cleaners/brushes. But I would be inclined to use a thread sealant over anit-seize, if I did. But that just me!
- Thread starter
- #18
Thanks guys, I didn't think to put back in the wheel to secure it, my vice lets it slip. I'm going to try that since it's still stuck, I've gotten to rotate about 1/4 the way out. The other 4 popped right off.
If any of you are in SW Idaho, I owe you a beer.
If any of you are in SW Idaho, I owe you a beer.
Well.... Walmart can deliver anywhere in the country!!! Just kidding. Enjoy you Cruiser!
2001LC
SILVER Star
Make sure to closely inspect this bolt. "1/4 way out" and still stuck, could mean it was cross threaded in. Guys run these on with impact and cross thread all to often.
