Front Rotor Stuck

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So yes, the tolerances really are that tight. Was able to get it off. I double checked to make sure my race was seat and was able to get it on!

Has anyone had issues with preload numbers using a fish scale? Using inch/pounds puts my preload way too light, around 6 pounds. I started low and have stepped up. Right now the adjusting nut (inner nut) is at 30 lbs and the wheel is breaking away at just under 9 pounds.
 
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Quick question, should the bearings tapered end be facing out like that, or be pointing inward? I am in the middle of the same thing and now I am second guessing mysefl, I think I installed the passenger side bearing with tapered section inward. I have not moved to the passenger side yet and opened it up to compare, and from the FSM diagram it is kind of hard to tell what the correct orientation should be. TIA!
 
Quick question, should the bearings tapered end be facing out like that, or be pointing inward? I am in the middle of the same thing and now I am second guessing mysefl, I think I installed the passenger side bearing with tapered section inward. I have not moved to the passenger side yet and opened it up to compare, and from the FSM diagram it is kind of hard to tell what the correct orientation should be. TIA!

I'm pretty sure they only fit one way.
 

This is the thread, has pretty much everything you need to know, real good stuff

And I think I went to high. After I put the flange on the preload is well over 20 pounds. Now take it apart and try again.
 
Okay just to confirm did I do something else wrong? Removed the flange and the pre-load is back down. As soon as I put the flange on, even with out putting on the cone washers/washer/nut it ups the pre-load.

Is this intended since it's spinning the spindle with it after the flange is on or do I need to take this apart?
 
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Don't confuse torque with preload.

Pay attention to end of video. It's very import the cavity of wheel hub is packed with grease.


Setting pre-load
 
Don't confuse torque with preload.

Okay I think I understand that. I have the preload set between 10-11 pounds on the fish scale. After I put the flange on torque down to 24 pounds, do I need to check my preload again or is that a nonissue? Because that point I checked it expecting it to be the same and it was different than the preload from before the flange was on.
 
Okay I think I understand that. I have the preload set between 10-11 pounds on the fish scale. After I put the flange on torque down to 24 pounds, do I need to check my preload again or is that a nonissue? Because that point I checked it expecting it to be the same and it was different than the preload from before the flange was on.

Non-issue. When the flange is on, you're spinning the CV shaft as well, so there is a lot more to turn.
 
Okay I think I understand that. I have the preload set between 10-11 pounds on the fish scale. After I put the flange on torque down to 24 pounds, do I need to check my preload again or is that a nonissue? Because that point I checked it expecting it to be the same and it was different than the preload from before the flange was on.
You do not check preload with hub flange on. You do recheck after torquing on the locking nut. If preload set to 10-11lb on fish scale, after tightening adjusting nut. Then once locking washer in place and locking nut torqued in, you may than get 12-13lb preload on recheck.
 
The final step in a good wheel bearing job is setting the snap ring gap. It's important to use a new snap ring. If the axle bearing & bushing where lubed/greased as require by PM every 30K miles. It's very important to settle the grease, to get true gap.
 
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It's been awhile since I did this job, but in the pictures of the bearing you posted is the grease seal backwards?

I hope not, but per the Cruiser Outfitters instructions the portion with the lip goes in towards the hub.
 
Best way to put my new brake pads on, with caliper mounted or caliper off? I have the caliper mounted but I can't seem to compress the pistons enough to fit the pads. The pads are EBC Green Stuff, is there a chance they are thicker than OEM and just won't fit?
 
Open that calipers bleeder, then use wooden stick (hammer handle works) between old pads to compressing caliper pistons. Do one side at a time. Make sure all other calipers are on, or a piece of wood placed between pads, to keeps pistons from coming out.

Channel locks or C-clamp can be used also, to compress pistons, clamping onto old brake pads.
 
Perfect, that made it easy. None of the videos I saw on YouTube showed that.
 

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