Front Rotor Stuck (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter NVDuckin
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- Thread starter
- #22
Dang it, I think this is the issue, put it on the wheel to hold it down and the bolt came almost completely off. It looks like it's stuck by a piece of metal that tore with it, it won't rethread on and it won't come out. I'm tempted to hammer it off because it's spinning freely now. I'll try and get a pic to show it but it's hard to see. Will I need a new bolt? I guess I'll need to wait until it's actually completely out.
Some I've done, a thread chase and new bolt worked fine. But one I just did was bust, so I drilled out very carefully and remove the remaining bolt. But darned if I didn't bust my chase in the wheel hub. I ended up taking to machine shop and having them burn-out the chase and install a Time-Cert.
If it busts. Trick is to center punch the target. Then start drilling with small bits and work up in bit size. Keep working to center with each larger drill bit. Do not take out the threads, but remove/drill out as much as you can.
forum.ih8mud.com
If it busts. Trick is to center punch the target. Then start drilling with small bits and work up in bit size. Keep working to center with each larger drill bit. Do not take out the threads, but remove/drill out as much as you can.
Service: Wheel bearing, Steering Knuckle, Rack OE rubber mounting bushings, Ball joints, Transmission flush W/Surprises!
So as many of you know; I've been doing some Service work on 100 series for others, mostly local mud members rigs and for some of my neighbors. The list of work I've done for others is long. But front end work is the most common PM or repair work I see. Either the service was done by...
forum.ih8mud.com
- Thread starter
- #26
Update time, drilled the bolt out and after it had weakened it popped out.
Anyone seen a bolt do this, is this the work of an impact wrench? If I use a tap & die will my hub threads be usable? I already have a replacement bolt I picked from the local dealership.
Anyone seen a bolt do this, is this the work of an impact wrench? If I use a tap & die will my hub threads be usable? I already have a replacement bolt I picked from the local dealership.
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Try chasing the threads with an appropriate sized tap
It was cross threaded and most likely by starting bolt with impact wrench. These techs just no speed. They could care less about proper procedure of starting threading properly and torques. We see this so often by brake shops, tire shop and INDYS
Only way to know, if tap works, is try. Then assemble rotor to wheel hub and torque bolt to spec. If it holds, your golden. Be very careful with tap, to not damage the 12 X 1.25 MM threads. Taps cut threads, whereas chase cleans. I over estimated the strength of my chase and busted it in the wheel hub on one job. I should have back it out and finish with a tap. Taps and chases are harden steel, so had machine shop burn out and install a Time Sert. Cost me $140.
You can also buy a new wheel hub for ~$400 or a used for much less. But most salvage yards, like to sell the whole steering knuckle assemble.
Only way to know, if tap works, is try. Then assemble rotor to wheel hub and torque bolt to spec. If it holds, your golden. Be very careful with tap, to not damage the 12 X 1.25 MM threads. Taps cut threads, whereas chase cleans. I over estimated the strength of my chase and busted it in the wheel hub on one job. I should have back it out and finish with a tap. Taps and chases are harden steel, so had machine shop burn out and install a Time Sert. Cost me $140.
You can also buy a new wheel hub for ~$400 or a used for much less. But most salvage yards, like to sell the whole steering knuckle assemble.
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- Thread starter
- #30
Good news, finally got the correct tap and thread chaser and everything torqued down to spec. New races punched in all the way to the seats, new hub grease, and repacked bearings and put on the seal.
Now my problem is the hub will not go onto the spindle (or axle?) all the way. What am I missing, in the videos it slides right now, but mine won't go on enough to even put the claw washer. Are the teeth on the inside of the hub suppose to mate up and slide all the way in? This is the only thing I can think of. They are still exposed on mine:
Now my problem is the hub will not go onto the spindle (or axle?) all the way. What am I missing, in the videos it slides right now, but mine won't go on enough to even put the claw washer. Are the teeth on the inside of the hub suppose to mate up and slide all the way in? This is the only thing I can think of. They are still exposed on mine:
Need to see picture of back & front of wheel hub. So I can see seal and bearings.
If a bearing cocked (not flush in race), it may hang up on spindle.
Issue may be a race not fully seated. This would cock a bearing a little.
If a bearing cocked (not flush in race), it may hang up on spindle.
Issue may be a race not fully seated. This would cock a bearing a little.
- Thread starter
- #32
This has turned into a nightmare. I will try and get a better pic, is there anything it could get caught on? For some reason I can't pull the rotor and hub back off. It feels like it is catching on something because it's loose but will not slide off.
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If not pulling off. You're likely hung up on outer (smaller) bearing in spindle. The bearing inner race slide over spindle very snugly. If rear bearing cocked, you pull hard on hub and bearing would knock seal off and they'd both remain on spindle. But if small bearing (outer) cocked (stuck) on spindle, it will not budge.
You may be able to tap on small bearing high point. This is to straight it, so it's not cocked. Use the claw wash to do the tapping on. Make sure the claw washers key is lined up with slot on spindle.
You may be able to tap on small bearing high point. This is to straight it, so it's not cocked. Use the claw wash to do the tapping on. Make sure the claw washers key is lined up with slot on spindle.
- Thread starter
- #34
The smaller outer bearing is out, so maybe it's the inner bearing that cocked? I'll dig out some grease to see if I can see inside and get a picture of it. Thanks again for helping.
- Thread starter
- #36
Okay, was able to yank it off. However the bearing (this is the new one) is still very firmly attached. Is it the wrong size or what would cause it to get caught? Or would even slightly unseated races cause this?This is from the cruiser outfitters kit. I have a brass drift, can I use that to try and tap it off?
Very tough call. But looks like top of bearing inner race in/on further than bottom (high point). Tap the high point in, to alight race of bearing on spindle. By high point, I mean part of inner race of bearing riding on spindle, that is not in as far as the rest. Hope that make sense.
- Thread starter
- #40
Will do, are the tolerances that tight on these? If/when I get it off, do I need to just make sure that my races in the hub are seated completely down and I should be good to try again?
