Front Panhard "Lower" Bolt Access

[Halfpint]

I don't claim to be an idiot much, but one would think (2) bolts on the front panhard is easy peasy.

How do you access the lower side's nut?

Maybe it's welded on??

 

[JunkCrzr89]

You don't.

 

[TYM4FUN]

I don't claim to be an idiot much, but one would think (2) bolts on the front panhard is easy peasy.

How do you access the lower side's nut?

View attachment 2800928

View attachment 2800929
View attachment 2800931

Maybe it's welded on??

It is welded on, just remove the bolt.

 

[Halfpint]

Well I figured that out on my own..

So welded? I just don't want to impact the bolt and hear the plip of a nut falling into that boxed out area..

 

[TYM4FUN]

Well I figured that out on my own..

So welded? I just don't want to impact the bolt and hear the plip of a nut falling into that boxed out area..

Yup, be careful. Mine stripped out and I just added another nut at the end of the bolt and slide a thin wrench in while tightening now.

 

[Halfpint]

Yup, be careful. Mine stripped out and I just added another nut at the end of the bolt and slide a thin wrench in while tightening now.

thx for the tip...yea- seemed like the impact just made a lot of noise and zero progress...time for a bigass breaker bar---but first PBblast the piss out of it today and try again manana.

 

[Wrencher93]

thx for the tip...yea- seemed like the impact just made a lot of noise and zero progress...time for a bigass breaker bar---but first PBblast the piss out of it today and try again manana.

Yeah I'd soak it good in your fluid of choice. Keeping the underside of my 80 fluid filmed has definitely helped when I need to break things loose to work on them. That stuff seeps in and keeps the important bits from seizing.

 

[lp2k]

You snap that bolt and your going to hate your life. You better soak that thing down or plan a long day to fix and re thread

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Might have thread locker. Heat if you need, spray PB blaster when hot to get sucked in. Then tighten a tad to crack the gunk. Then open. It’s counterintuitive but it works.

 

[manofthewoods]

Well I figured that out on my own..

So welded? I just don't want to impact the bolt and hear the plip of a nut falling into that boxed out area..

Took mine off yesterday. Can't remember if impact, or breaker bar w/30" cheater?
Doing all 18 Bushings. The hardest arms are the ones above the rear axle. Have to Jack the springs to get the bolts out. Then finagle the proportioning valve to get the other one on the driver's side. Fun.
Luckily I have no rust, so, I got that going for me. Which IS Nice.

 

[Wrencher93]

Took mine off yesterday. Can't remember if impact, or breaker bar w/30" cheater?
Doing all 18 Bushings. The hardest arms are the ones above the rear axle. Have to Jack the springs to get the bolts out. Then finagle the proportioning valve to get the other one on the driver's side. Fun.
Luckily I have no rust, so, I got that going for me. Which IS Nice.

What do you mean jack the springs? I ask because I need to do my rear bushings as well.

 

[LandLocked93]

What do you mean jack the springs? I ask because I need to do my rear bushings as well.

I think he had to spread (stretch) the coil to get the bolt out between 2 coil wraps?
I did mine with3" OME lift coils already installed, so had room to do so without jacking...but only just.
Also don't recall having to mess with the prop-valve.
But its been 2yrs and a coof since so memory is somewhat covfefe.

edit:nope. different bolt. disregard

 

[manofthewoods]

What do you mean jack the springs? I ask because I need to do my rear bushings as well.

You'll see when you get there!
To get the bolts out (the ones on top of the axle) they will run into a coil of the springs; so, I used a 30" piece of rectangular tubing (my cheater "bar") to wedge between the coils enough to remove the bolts. It's not actually difficult, if you're prepared.
Likely, my reinstallation will feature me reversing the direction - mucho easier!

 

[Halfpint]

Bolts came out today as expected. Woot!

Super simple job- aligning the lower bolt on reinstall was annoying- tie rod sorta in the way but had the 6yo daughter work the wheel back and forth (had the axle ratchet strapped to the frame) and it eventually aligned without blocking.

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Usually good practice to get the PS bolt in first so it does not cross thread. Then do DS.

 

[NeverMarooned81]

You snap that bolt and your going to hate your life. You better soak that thing down or plan a long day to fix and re thread

I broke the nuts welds today, any suggestions on getting it off/on?

 

[ajax1]

I broke the nuts welds today, any suggestions on getting it off/on?

You will need a thin wrench or you might be able to jam a screwdriver in there

 

[landtank]

I broke the nuts welds today, any suggestions on getting it off/on?

cut the front edge of the spring perch to give you access to the nut. Then go in with a stick welder and burn that nut back on. The heat should break the bolt free from the nut and you can then back it out.

 

[NeverMarooned81]

cut the front edge of the spring perch to give you access to the nut. Then go in with a stick welder and burn that nut back on. The heat should break the bolt free from the nut and you can then back it out.

I ended up gridning the perch back a little to get a wrench in there when i got home, the drive home was enough to loosen the nut and it came out easily.
I ordered 2 of the frame side bolts and nuts to replace it with. Once i get the axle side in and tight, ill probably tack it with a stick welder in a couple places

Thanks

 

[MoCoNative]

Pro tip on bushing replacement!!! Don't put the panhard bar bushing from the from the front bar in the rear bar, and visa versa. The OD of those bushings are the same, but the ID bolt diameter is different.

Having to not destroy a brand new bushing during removal wasn't much fun. It really didn't want to come back out, but I finally got it and swapped them.

I suspect another option for that nut is weld a nut to a piece of flat stock steel with a hole in it. Leave the tail long enough you can wiggle it in there and let it hold itself.

I managed to shear off one of the rear stabilizer bracket to axle bolts last year. I made a piece out of 1/4 inch plate, threaded and welded it on top of the mount surface. Made a shim for the other side so the bar would not be crooked, has worked so far. I had had those bolts out about 15 months prior, I was surprised it broke, too much new rust and probably bolt fatigue.