Front driveshaft removal instr. Please (2 Viewers)

[IronYuppy]

With the t-case in Neutral, can step 6 be done without air/power tool? How do you break loose the bolts when the driveshft is free to rotate?

FWIW, I loosened the bolts while the T-case was in gear, so the shafts wouldn't move. Loosen the ones you can reach, then drive the truck forward or reverse a foot or so to access the other bolts. Once they're loosened, you can slip into neutral and take the bolts off with ease.


Also, I don't believe there's any adverse effects to running locked/one shaft for extended periods. It's not as if you're subjecting either end to too much load; one end has none, and the other end has its normal load.

 

[medtro]

Having just done the front DS today, I couldn't get an impact on the nuts, front or back, to save my life. I could at the pinion end if I removed the swaybar, but meh.

You need the right socket for the job.

 

[NaterGator]

You need the right socket for the job.

What socket?

I tried it with deep 14mm impact sockets, shallow 14mm impact sockets on 2" and 6" extensions, with a wobble extension, etc.

Nothing would allow me to get the right angle. The 6-point box-wrench made it a breeze.

 

[medtro]

What socket?

I tried it with deep 14mm impact sockets, shallow 14mm impact sockets on 2" and 6" extensions, with a wobble extension, etc.

Nothing would allow me to get the right angle. The 6-point box-wrench made it a breeze.

6 point universal impact socket.

 

[Cj80cruiser]

From reading Monkey boys post he says the emergency brake won't hold the truck when dropping the driveshaft. I don't see it, why not?

 

[Beowulf]

From reading Monkey boys post he says the emergency brake won't hold the truck when dropping the driveshaft. I don't see it, why not?

A functioning e-brake will hold the truck with the DS removed. Either his was not working properly or he did not set it correctly. I believe he was making the point that chocking the wheels is a good idea and that putting the vehicle in park is not sufficient when a DS is removed. If the location where you are doing the repairs is not level then chock the wheels and pull the e-brake. You'll be fine.

-B-

 

[Cj80cruiser]

A functioning e-brake will hold the truck with the DS removed. Either his was not working properly or he did not set it correctly. I believe he was making the point that chocking the wheels is a good idea and that putting the vehicle in park is not sufficient when a DS is removed. If the location where you are doing the repairs is not level then chock the wheels and pull the e-brake. You'll be fine.

-B-

Thanks B for clearing that up.

 

[Cj80cruiser]

When bolting the driveshafts back in should locktite be used, anti seize, or not necessary. I want to be able to get them off again without it being a PITA but don't want my driveshaft falling off in the middle of the road either. I would think the nuts with nubs should hold it just fine. How important is torque spec? Just get em real tight?

 

[Beowulf]

Front DS - 54 ft-lbs
Rear DS - 65 ft-lbs

We did not use loctite on mine. I have read that some people do.

Clarification to the above comment on the e-brake. The e-brake expands the brake shoes (both L&R) in the rear drum portion of the rear brakes. If your rear wheels are off the ground for the repair then, of course, you don't have a rear e-brake. This is common sense but I wanted to clear this up in case someone is not familiar with the 80-Series emergency brake system.

-B-

 

[Cj80cruiser]

Front DS - 54 ft-lbs
Rear DS - 65 ft-lbs

We did not use loctite on mine. I have read that some people do.

-B-

SOB I was hoping torque spec wouldn't matter since I don't have a torque wrench at the moment.

 

[Adam B]

I've always used anti-seize on DS bolts (and caliper bolts). On my '85 pickup I must have had the rear DS out at least 30 times while I owned it and drove it at least 30,000km per year. That's a lot of removals/installations and I never had one accidentally loosen.

As for torque, this is one of those applications where most people aren't going to use a torque wrench because it isn't particularly convenient. So use your imagination. With normal length combination wrenches, go as tight as you can. The wrenches are only about 6" long so you need to be able to get more than 100 pounds of force from one hand. So like I said, go as hard as you can.

It helps to wear work gloves for this because you can push way harder on the wrench without embedding it in your hand.

 

[landtoy80]

I always use a torque wrench on the ds bolts and use antisieze and when I went and removed the bolts at a later time they were tight came off without use of a impact (thank goodness)

 

[dnp]

This is an old thread, but I have a question along the lines of it: I removed my front DS to see which one of my diffs is making a whining noise. I didn't think about it ahead of time, and after I removed the DS, I drove around a bit today without it. Will it harm the VC to drive it less than 20 miles without the center diff being locked? Don't know why I didn't think about the center not being locked before I drove it..........hope I didn't mess anything up.

 

[landtoy80]

I would say no. It only takes a little but of turning of the VC to get it to lock.

 

[packetstormin]

So what happens if you did not mark the flanges when you pull the drive shaft? I thought it was only important to mark the yoke so that if it came off you could put it back on in the right alignment. I really need some information about this. This might explain my severe vibration at 80 miles an hour.

 

[Grench]

Thanks B for clearing that up.

I have a bit of a divergent opinion. Never trust a parking brake.

Your truck is 12+ years old. Have you disassembled, re-lubed and maintained your parking brake? Inside the last year? Well enough to trust with your life? Have you seen a half-busted bell crank on a 1996 FZJ80 result in one side sort-of-working and the other simply rusted in place?

I have. I chock wheels and never trust a rolling platform to stay put 'just because'.

Just remembered something only partially related. I was on a construction site in the mid 90's. A guy put a 4 story quad-drive fork lift up to maximum extension with a mud bucket full of concrete slurry up in the air, extended it forward so it pointed into the floor, locked the hydraulic brakes, hopped out to go up top to offload the bucket. He didn't get more than 10' from the lift when it rolled backwards - with the 500lb mud bucket 40' in the air until the lift hit a fire plug. We all watched the top of that thing sway in circles for about 5 minutes before anyone would dare run up to it and try to drop the lift back down. All mechanical systems can fail.

IMHO YMMV I'm not a mechanic.

 

[Hilux]

SOB I was hoping torque spec wouldn't matter since I don't have a torque wrench at the moment.

Got an air impact gun?

"HOW TO TORQUE WITH AN IMPACT WRENCH.


Yes you can use your impact gun to torque nuts and bolts if you use this handy chart along with your ears and a quick trigger finger.

TORQUE VALUE
25 to 35 ft/lbs BAP! BAP!
35 to 45 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
45 to 60 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
60 to 75 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
75 to 90 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
90 to 100 ft/lbs BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!
110 to 300 ft/lbs ALL GUNS BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP! BAP!"



I've always put mine on tight as I can, I've never used any locktight and I've never had one come off..

To me I rather have it that way anyway... I know what a loose flange feels like driving it, and I know how to tighten it up...

And that's a small price to pay, but I know I can drop that thing any time I want... I don't have to have any special tools b/c it's lock tighted on so hard I can't get it off by hand...

Field repair = 14mm wrench.

No air or extra leverage needed...

 

[GOSARGE1]

Hey Guys, I'm new to the IH8MUD site and have found this discussion (on Google), very interesting...since it relates to my 1996 LX450. I too had a bad vibration (45mph - 60mph), and learnt that one of the U-Joint's located on the Front DS was "shot." I used brute force with a 6" wrench and a socket set to remove the nuts and bolts. I test drove my LX450 with only the Rear DS and the vibration disappeared....hence the bad U-Joint. With both U-Joints replaced, I'm now at a point to reinstall the Front DS. Lets hope for the best.

 

[Doc]

Welcome, and good luck!

 

[GOSARGE1]

Hello

Welcome, and good luck!

Thank you for your words. So far, I really like the site and greatly appreciate the contributions of everyone's knowledge base. Awesome!