Front Diff Mount Change & SuperPro Bushing Review (1 Viewer)

[jmr302]

My apologies if this has been mentioned but I don’t recall it. What is the method for testing these bushings. I will be doing some maintenance soon, and may add this to the least if needed. I have a R-N-D clunk and this maybe the fix. I’m guessing I might be able to pry around with a bar on some spots, to see some flex Thank in advance

Slide under your truck and remove the skidplates. Visually examine the rubber bushings at all locations on the diff. What you're looking for is a crack or tear in the rubber material that bridges between the outer shell of the bushing and the inner area where the bolt is. This is the same for all suspension bushings everywhere. You may have to individually unbolt them to get the washer out of the way to see in there.

In my particular case, the bushing at the front cover and on the axle tube (this is where the Superpro bushing goes) were completely separated and I could grab the diff and move it around by hand. It was very obviously not supported properly.

I hope that helps.

 

[Nightbrew]

Slide under your truck and remove the skidplates. Visually examine the rubber bushings at all locations on the diff. What you're looking for is a crack or tear in the rubber material that bridges between the outer shell of the bushing and the inner area where the bolt is. This is the same for all suspension bushings everywhere. You may have to individually unbolt them to get the washer out of the way to see in there.

In my particular case, the bushing at the front cover and on the axle tube (this is where the Superpro bushing goes) were completely separated and I could grab the diff and move it around by hand. It was very obviously not supported properly.

I hope that helps.

Thanks. I was thinking the bolts may need to come out. A little unrelated here, but I was also looking at the motor and t case rubber mounts. I don’t have the best view, but I don’t see a lot cracking. However there is a lot of what might be described as delamination. It is as if the very thin outer layer of the rubber is peeling up in small 1/16” sections. Is this sign the rubber is compromised? All I have read refers to the tears/cracking.

 

[ghong14]

Hey everyone, does anyone the parts number for the front differential support for an LX470 1998?

 

[trdcorolla]

Hey everyone, does anyone the parts number for the front differential support for an LX470 1998?

All of the part numbers are in post #1.

 

[ghong14]

All of the part numbers are in post #1.

Unfortunately it does not include the Front Differential Support piece

 

[trdcorolla]

Oh, you mean the front diff crossmember? If so, it's 51230-60010

 

[ghong14]

Oh, you mean the front diff crossmember? If so, it's 51230-60010

Thanks you are the best!

 

[2001LC]

Thanks you are the best!

Unfortunately it does not include the Front Differential Support piece

OEM requires buying parts of frame w/ cross-member ( Front Differential Support piece). Frame holds the guide for bolts, which get very rusty. Frame parts must be cut and welded. It's like $600, you don't need spend.

If doing a diff drop, you'll get with kit. Or if yours is damaged, like busted #under-shield bolts. Find a take-off from someone that's done a diff drop.

Note: I like pulling cross member and de-rusting it and the 4 collar insert in frame.

Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration)

Removing front bushing took about 15 minutes including tooling up. Air tool made short work of it. Having on bench made this easy, and reduced damage to aluminium front cover bushing holder socket. Working side to side worked well just like with steering rack bushing, with minor score with tool...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[ghong14]

OEM requires buying parts of frame w/ cross-member ( Front Differential Support piece). Frame holds the guide for bolts, which get very rusty. Frame parts must be cut and welded. It's like $600, you don't need spend.

If doing a diff drop, you'll get with kit. Or if yours is damaged, like busted #under-shield bolts. Find a take-off from someone that's done a diff drop.

Note: I like pulling cross member and de-rusting it and the 4 collar insert in frame.

Scored 2006 LC w/194K AHC (untouched Jewell restoration)

Removing front bushing took about 15 minutes including tooling up. Air tool made short work of it. Having on bench made this easy, and reduced damage to aluminium front cover bushing holder socket. Working side to side worked well just like with steering rack bushing, with minor score with tool...

forum.ih8mud.com

Thanks for the advice sounds great! I actually just did a drop so my original is available on the market. Wanted to list it on eBay.

 

[rogermarcon]

Bumping this older thread again..

i'm in the process of replacing the bushing on the front diff cover and i'm unable to back out the bolt all the way. It's received a healthy amount of PB blaster and my Harbor Freight electric impact... it's backed out some, but refuses to come out further (pic below). Any advice?

 

[2001LC]

Grab bolt with vise grips clamp on as tight as you can, and pry out. Fact bolt un-threaded that far, is good indication nuts okay. Bolt may just be hung up through bushing. Hopefully!

 

[flintknapper]

IF you can run the bolt back up (tighten it)...then that would suggest all threads (male/female) are probably OK.

IF you are saying the bolt is just 'spinning' and not coming out....do as Paul said above and grab it with a pair of vise grips.

IF you are saying it won't back out anymore (impact will not remove it) then alternate spraying the exposed threads with penetrating oil, running the the bolt back up (slowly) and then running it back down (until it resists). It should slowly loosen up, but you don't want to create a lot of heat and gall the threads....so go slowly.

 

[rogermarcon]

Thanks for the tips! Running it back and forth a bit allowed it to come out clean. New bushing lubed up and pressed in.. all reassembled.. annnnd my clunk is still there (although marginally quieter)... I guess on to the next!

 

[prum jerry]

Has anybody had trouble getting clearance reinstalling the two bolts on top of the DS diff support? I had a hard time getting to the nuts on the topside of the arm to stop them from spinning, mainly the uppermost nut and bolt, during the removal process prior to installing Superpro Poly bushing. I'm about mount it back up but I'm anticipating problems given how hard it was to get at for removal and I'm hoping someone might have a tip to get it snugged up enough to be able to torque to spec and be done with it.. See attached pic for reference to topside nut I had trouble turning on me.
Also, what is the torque spec for the bolt that goes through the bushing, parallel to the ground? Thanks in advance for any help.

 

[prum jerry]

Got it all worked out, looking forward to test driving tomorrow. The only problem I have now is figuring out whether or not my torque wrench is worth a dang on anything over 110 ft lbs.
For what it’s worth I used a hacksaw, and a cheap set of cold point chisels from Walmart plus a stubby 3lb hammer for HF to get the inner ring out. I made two cuts, on opposite sides of each other, then went after it with the hammer and chisels walking around the perimeter of each side. I started with the smallest of the three chisels, drove it in a bit, then grabbed the next size up and drove it in until the smaller chisel broke loose or if it didn’t I just grabbed the largest of the three and drove it in until one fell out. Either way one would come out and I’d use the smallest, or thinnest one available at that moment to drive in just passed the next one in line. Neither of my cuts seemed to go all the way through the inner ring but weakened it enough in those spots to eventually curl in on itself. I did that all the way around until it finally broke free. Wasn’t easy but was able to make it happen with $10-$20 worth of tools.
I attempted to drive the new Superpro bushing in with a mix of tools ranging from a gear puller, ball joint press, an 8” grade 8 bolt, with a bunch of washers and some giant nuts I had laying around, and tried driving them with my cordless impact. None of what I had on hand was the right size, including the cups that came with my ball joint press, so I got it in about 60% of the way and took it to a local 4WD shop the following day and had them put it on their press, for a nominal fee of $35... oh well, I was over it by then.
Pics are of how I worked the OE inner ring out. I didn’t get pics of me driving the new bushing part of the way in as I don’t have a vise, absolutely crucial at a minimum to do this job at home, and only had two hands.

 

[Coin]

Nevermind. I answered my own question.

 

[cruiserpatch]

Has anybody had trouble getting clearance reinstalling the two bolts on top of the DS diff support? I had a hard time getting to the nuts on the topside of the arm to stop them from spinning, mainly the uppermost nut and bolt, during the removal process prior to installing Superpro Poly bushing. I'm about mount it back up but I'm anticipating problems given how hard it was to get at for removal and I'm hoping someone might have a tip to get it snugged up enough to be able to torque to spec and be done with it.. See attached pic for reference to topside nut I had trouble turning on me.
Also, what is the torque spec for the bolt that goes through the bushing, parallel to the ground? Thanks in advance for any help.

View attachment 2665164

I had similar troubles with clearance but wound up using a 19mm short socket and 3/8" ratchet which I could squeeze above the PS lines. Worked for removal and installation.

Installed Superpro and TAB332 plus all the OEM stuff. Can't wait to test drive it!