front axles rebuild

[Eric Winkworth]

Well I'm done, rebuilding the front axle and doing the brakes on the old BJ70 CDN spec

it was alot easier putting it back together then it was taking it apart, I know you guys like the before and after pics.

cheers
and thanks to everyone that helped me out!

 

[crushers]

oooh, looks like brand new...

 

[lowenbrau]

The before and after pictures of the floor tell the real story.

Truck looks good.

 

[wesintl]

Nice!

 

[Eric Winkworth]

lol

 

[roscoFJ73]

Nothin like shiny parts to make the heart beat faster

Must have saved yourself 6-7 hour$ on mechanics rate$.

 

[Eric Winkworth]

ohh for sure, and they won't take the time to paint and sure don't give the love I do.

 

[Vegard]

Looking nice!

I will be doing the same job some time within the next 6 months. Have you used Toyota pads and rotors? I am concidering to buy something which is supposed to be better, in order to be sure to stop the BJ75 on 36" tires. What do you think?

 

[Eric Winkworth]

Like those monster calipers? Yes I used all factory parts, I bought the calipers refurbished from 4 wheel auto, they were 125 each, exchanged and out of everything I bought I think I got the best deal on them. ohh and as for stopping 36" tires, the calipers look like nothin I have ever seen on a truck 4 pistons monsters already. I also bought a knucle kit from 4 wheel, but I ended up having to buy some toyota factory steel rings for the back of the knuckle, I assume you are supposed to re use the old ones, but mine were a little un usable. The way everything looked when I took it apart, other then brakes nothing really needed it, but it sure is alot nicer now. Buy tons of rags, grease anti seize, and if you are planning on cleaning/painting everything it is gonna be alot bigger job then a re build.

cheers
Eric

BTW I just used diesel to degrease all the parts, then I wire wheeled them, actetoned them and primed and painted them. I also bought all new factory fastners for the knuckle, which was a mistake and don't think I owuld do that again.

 

[crushers]

if you shop around you can get refurbished rotors for $65 each. brand new after market rotors for under $80 and brake pads for $18, axle seal is $5 and gaskets is under $15 from toyota. the king pion bearings from Comercial bearing is $15 each.
all quality parts.
<the kit from Dan, Rob, Steve etc is handy since it ihas all teh gaskets and the kingpin bearing included>

 

[Eric Winkworth]

you still have the cost of the back of the knuckle rings, which are 38 each side from toyota. New rotors from toyota are 88 each. thats a good price for bearings etc.

Those refurbished calipers from Dan at 4 wheel come ready to go with pads, anti vibration springs, everything just bolt em on bleed em and go.

Alrightly I've been out wheeling a bit, nothin too crazy yet, she feels like a new truck, but I guess it should because my wallets lighter, anyway I have a question for all you guys out there with 70's do the front brakes ever lock up before the back ones, I thought it was my hurtin rotors/calipers but I'm not noticing to much of a difference in stopping power, just the wobble is gone because I got rid of those old underspec, untrue rotors. I know she has alot of weight over the front end which is probably the reason, is there anyway to make more breaking power in the front?

 

[lshobie]

The fronts will lock up before the back. Did you redo your back brakes yet? You should do your backs also. If you jump on the binders and the fronts don't lock up then something isnt right. But, if your backs arent done then they wont be helping your fronts, that makes the front brakes work harder and less effective.

Regards

 

[crushers]

i did missed those dust seals.

that is a good price for fully loaded calipers, you can get fully loaded from ?NAPA? for 68$ plus the pads of $18... but for convience sake the complete caliper kit from Dan and the axle rebuild kit saves money in the long run since you do not have to run around sourcing out the different parts...

as for your brakeing i guess you could adjust your proportioning valve but i have never played with one before so i can not say if it works or not...
cheers

 

[lshobie]

The only reason the proportioning valve should be touched is if you have bent the load sensing arm or added a lift etc. - or maybe something is seized. Adjusting the proporting valve without the proper tools will end up messing something up. I had to adjust it when I put the OME lift on my 80 series, the front brakes were'nt as effective and teh rears were wearing fast. I just adjusted it as per what a bunch of people had been doing on the 80 series board and it worked out fine.

I suspect that you should have the rear drums truned and adjusted - they are probably glazed .

 

[Little Joe]

is there anyway to make more breaking power in the front?

If you use 1988-94 V6 4Runner calipers(they have 40mm pistons on all 4) it makes a noticeable difference when stopping larger tires. Trimming the backing plate is all that is needed for a bolt on fit.
Running aluminum wheels to lighten up the rotating mass also helps

Steve M

 

[Eric Winkworth]

I don't think the calipers are my problem, maybe they just arn't worn in yet, I dunno.
The back brake had new shoes, and some kind of maintance at toyota 10 000kms ago. they lock up like no bodies business. I'm not saying the front don't lock up but the backs lock up really quick, I dunno I just would like to figure it out before snow and ice, hitting the brakes on a sheet of ice and having your back brake lock up going 80 well we all know what happens!

maybe I will just down shift, lol

not like I really drive in any high traffic situations, I see more cows then cars

cheers
Eric

 

[crushers]

The only reason the proportioning valve should be touched is if you have bent the load sensing arm or added a lift etc. - or maybe something is seized. Adjusting the proporting valve without the proper tools will end up messing something up. I had to adjust it when I put the OME lift on my 80 series, the front brakes were'nt as effective and teh rears were wearing fast. I just adjusted it as per what a bunch of people had been doing on the 80 series board and it worked out fine.

I suspect that you should have the rear drums truned and adjusted - they are probably glazed .

agreed, this is why i ahve not touch the porportioning valve, i have had no need. he asked how to give the braking to the rear more and this is one way (not recommended) but it would work...
the other option would be disc all around but the front will still be working more than the rear... what he needs to remember is he is driving a cruiser and not a race car...
;^)

 

[Eric Winkworth]

hey, your talking about me and I'm right here! Trust me I'm the type of person driving 60 in an 80 if I see the road is even slighly snow/icy, people get so pissed with the way I drive, but I have alot of money into my rig, and I know how much insurance will give me if I ever get hit. So I am crazy careful. In some ways I like how the ass swings out a bit, I'm getting used to it.

just wondering, no big deal

 

[Vegard]

Thanks for the tips on rotors and pads. Still not sure what to choose, but I know my 42 on 38 tires has good braking power even with stock rotors and pads.

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Quick question about the rotors, did you wash off the shipping oil with brake cleaner?

And if you do a quick search on bedding brakes, you will learn how to properly brake in brakes and the big misconception about warpped rotors.

I break in each and every brake job I do prior to giving the truck back to my customers.

The four runner calipers did make for better braking and I did notice a little more pedal travel due to the added volume of the calipers.

Rob