- Thread starter
- #61
it looks like the pics when away, possibly after the forum upgrade.
Front axle evaulation for FAQ
- Thread starter landtank
- Start date
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I can still see them using the app
LINUS
Waiting for the Great Pumpkin
I'm one of the techless wonders who lost pics - and so many of these older threads had invaluable pics in them - what app or what do I do to get pics back?
I'd even be happy with the mini pics you have to click on.
Luckily the posting Rick did on this one is in my wheelhouse of knowledge, but suspension stuff isn't rocket surgery.
Is there a FAQ for this app or "how to make the forum upgrade look similar to the old forum?" - for us techless wonders?
I'd even be happy with the mini pics you have to click on.
Luckily the posting Rick did on this one is in my wheelhouse of knowledge, but suspension stuff isn't rocket surgery.
Is there a FAQ for this app or "how to make the forum upgrade look similar to the old forum?" - for us techless wonders?
The ih8mud app for Android still shows them
Noticed a bit of play in my driver's side tire in the 12-6 directions, using this thread I'm going to pull it apart and re-torque the wheel bearing. Front axle was rebuilt just over a year ago, passenger side is fine still. Thanks for the great info!
Apologies if this has been covered but can someone tell me what constitutes "play"? If I wiggle the wheel at 12/6 and 9/3 like described there is perhaps a very slight 1cm amount of "wiggle". Or is "play" obvious looseness? And how much force to apply? I am pushing/pulling hard enough to steer the other tire that is sitting on the ground.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Yeah at 12 oclock and 6 o'clock yah should not be able to have any steer period.....
there should not be ANY wiggle or looseness when doing this check......
If there is play/looseness or yous able to wiggle things then yah best get in there and check pre-load and re-tighten them nutz....
there should not be ANY wiggle or looseness when doing this check......
If there is play/looseness or yous able to wiggle things then yah best get in there and check pre-load and re-tighten them nutz....
- Thread starter
- #68
You first want to check at 12 and six with the tire off the ground. If you are able to move the tire easily that would indicate some play and the bearing is loose.
Provided the bearing is tight checking at 3 and 6 for play would be indicative of a tie rod end being loose.
The thing to remember, you can't exert nearly as much force as driving the truck would do. And any play/ looseness you might be able to feel would be ten fold when driving.
Provided the bearing is tight checking at 3 and 6 for play would be indicative of a tie rod end being loose.
The thing to remember, you can't exert nearly as much force as driving the truck would do. And any play/ looseness you might be able to feel would be ten fold when driving.
What I mean by "steering" is when I push at 9 and 3 I'm causing the other wheel that's on the ground to turn (I'm pushing the tire and it's transferring the force through the drag link to the other wheel that's on the ground causing it to turn along with the steering wheel), am I exerting too much force?
When I talk about the play I'm experiencing it's so very very slight that I'm questioning whether it's actually play or not. You're saying it should be completely solid as if the whole wheel is bolted to something solid (such as on a solid rear tire carrier?)
When I talk about the play I'm experiencing it's so very very slight that I'm questioning whether it's actually play or not. You're saying it should be completely solid as if the whole wheel is bolted to something solid (such as on a solid rear tire carrier?)
- Thread starter
- #70
the two tires are "tied" together via the tie rod. So moving one tire should steer the other. However if there is some ply, meaning a little bit of movement that doesn't take much effort and the other wheel stays stationary, you have a bad joint in there. In that case get someone to help you by moving the one wheel back and forth just in that play area while you look and feel at each joint to find which one is the problem.
I will be doing this check, as soon as I get the truck back this next week following the full engine rebuild. My steering is loose and I want to get this fixed ASAP. Front axle was rebuilt about 2 years ago when my son owned the truck, so it will be interesting to see if the problem is wheel bearing based or tie rod. I suspect tie rod ends, but I'll know once I get the chance to evaluate it.
Thanks much for a very clear and concise write up!
Jonathan
Thanks much for a very clear and concise write up!
Jonathan
This is a great post and very helpful for people. Thanks for taking the time
gents. i went looking for an iphone app. is it android only? can’t find any good intel.
also if anyone can see the pics can they download them and upload them here?
it is kind of timeless intel (highly ranked on google) and pictures would be really welcome.
How have play is too much? Is ANY play, too much?
Thanks in advance for your time.
Ben
Felt a little play at 12 and 6. Re torqued the axle nut. Zero play now. Thanks for the thread and all involved.
Ben
Ben
Great post, thanks for sharing all the info @landtank.
So, I replaced most parts in my front axle this year, including the tire rod ends and link, and after going through the steps described here I found a little play when wiggling the driver side tire on the 3-9 direction, it clicks just a little on the driver side when I check on both sides. I installed new tire rod ends (555) and I was hoping it would be a good choice.
If the 3-9 play means bad tire rod ends, does that mean that the tire rod end piece needs to be replaced or tightening the nut under it to spec on both sides would fix the play?
So, I replaced most parts in my front axle this year, including the tire rod ends and link, and after going through the steps described here I found a little play when wiggling the driver side tire on the 3-9 direction, it clicks just a little on the driver side when I check on both sides. I installed new tire rod ends (555) and I was hoping it would be a good choice.
If the 3-9 play means bad tire rod ends, does that mean that the tire rod end piece needs to be replaced or tightening the nut under it to spec on both sides would fix the play?
- Thread starter
- #78
The best approach is to have someone move the wheel while you grab onto the joint in a way that you are touching both parts and can feel movement. If the first joint is good move onto the next one until you find the culprit.
Ok, I’ll try that. Thanks again
Malleus
Far west of Siegen
The tierods are threaded so that you can adjust the distance between the rod ends. The nuts on the clamps (on the rods) keep them from moving, once the distance is set. They do nothing to tighten the rod end bearing itself. Neither the clamp nuts nor the rod end castle nuts should be loose at all.
This is what the steering system linkage looks like:
When you say you replaced the "link", do you mean the relay rod rod ends?
When you turn the steering wheel, the pitman arm moves the relay rod which moves passenger side wheel, which in turn moves the driver's side wheel. What this means is that while there are two rod ends connecting the passenger side wheel to the steering gearbox, there are four connecting the driver's side wheel. That's twice the amount of play and it adds up, from one link to another.
If your rod ends are new, I doubt they are bad, but it could be...
Your best bet, if you think there is any play, is to get under the truck, while both wheels are on the ground, and the engine is off, and have someone try to turn the wheel back and forth several times, as quickly and violently as they can. You cannot do this while the wheel(s) is/are off the ground - there has to be weight on the steering system. Watch each rod end while this is happening. If one, or more, is loose, you'll see it. The rod end and whatever it's connected to should move together - if one moves more than the other, the rod end is bad. Note: rod ends are supposed to swivel; it's a ball and socket joint, like your hip or shoulder. This is normal.
If you see no movement in the rod end relative to whatever it's connected to (you will see the rods move a bit, that's supposed to happen), put the frame up on two jackstands and, with the wheels off the ground and the engine off, do the same thing, but this time, watch the rear of the knuckles, both top and bottom. You don't want your helper to actually turn the wheels, just wiggle them, but hard.
This is all the on-vehicle check you can do for the front end. If you don't see any play in any of the joints I described, but you still believe there is play in the wheel, you need to disassembly the hub and inspect it.
FWIW, you must check the side-to-side and top-to-bottom play of each wheel separately, while the other is on the ground. Otherwise, you'll get movement from the other wheel, through the rod ends. This is normal.
