front axle cinch...ideas? (1 Viewer)

[TJDIV]

set Junks Momma on the front bumper.



that'll work.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Wouldn't a front traction bar allow you to locate the strap almost anywhere along it's length? That way you could strap to any convient cross member.

I'm still a little fuzzy on this whole concept, tell me if I have it right.

Front:
limit on steep uphill situations
No limit on level or drop in situations.

Rear:
no limit on uphill or level
Limit on steep downhill situations.

So you would never have occasion to limit oth at the same time?

 

[woody]

actually, my rear axle is limited now, max 2" droop at the center....front is max 3" at the center....front and rear mounted limit straps....

For most situations, this helps a ton, and I haven't seen a need yet to cinch the rear, but the front cinch would make a definite change on steep verticles.

I like the constant limits in all situations, on steep breakovers, it keeps the axle from "walking" away, and the COG tends to tip the rig over, versus letting both axles hang uselessly...

 

[woody]

cinching both front and rear at the same time effectively "pre-plants" your suspension, and can nearly eliminate any unloading/wheel hop (other than that created by the low tire pressure)...and, knowing that the front and rear won't "kick out" at any time is great for flattish steep climbs

 

[rusty_tlc]

How did you determine how much to limit droop?

Edit: Just realized limit and cinch were two different things.

 

[woody]

in front, the limit is a link chain....not the prettiest, but I haven't come across a 8" eye to eye limit strap yet....basically, I put the chain in place with extra links and 1/2" bolts....flexed it up, and shortened the chain until the shock travel was maxed at full flex and the chain was just snug.

Same concept in the rear, but installed a 10" limit strap once I had the measurements down.....this limit could be longer based on available flex, but I didn't want the 1/4 ellip packs to open up too much...

It'll put one rear tire 60" in the air (and keep the other 3 on the ground) on an RTI with the limits installed...pretty much more flex than useful on the trails.....

 

[rusty_tlc]

in front, the limit is a link chain....not the prettiest, but I haven't come across a 8" eye to eye limit strap yet....basically, I put the chain in place with extra links and 1/2" bolts....flexed it up, and shortened the chain until the shock travel was maxed at full flex and the chain was just snug.

Same concept in the rear, but installed a 10" limit strap once I had the measurements down.....this limit could be longeulbabed on ar ilseleonleva bab I fidx,t utnt dhen'/4wall t p 1ks eo ipenacp to opch u.
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[wngrog]

Rusty, find a big rock and drive the front tire up on it. Helps to have front lockers, but a ramp is not necessary.

 

[rusty_tlc]

Rusty, find a big rock and drive the front tire up on it. Helps to have front lockers, but a ramp is not necessary.

Have the lockers, seem to be missing drivelines currently.

I'm not even sure if I need to worry about it.

When is it necessary to add a center limit strap? Or front axle cinch?

 

[Radd Cruisers]

Shot in the dark, what about putting the chain on the front and keeping it very low, having the back as a cinch down system for decents?

In that case get a cheepie style 12 volt winch a couple of pullies and a in cab control.

Rob

 

[bkg]

Just go check out any of your "build" threads

Only fabbing Shreg does is writing a check.

Now that's some funny stuff right there!!!

 

[wngrog]

Have the lockers, seem to be missing drivelines currently.

I'm not even sure if I need to worry about it.

When is it necessary to add a center limit strap? Or front axle cinch?

Center limit has never been something I needed. It is there to keep the entire rear axle from falling out at one time and binding up the driveline. My MOG axle has a straight driveshaft out of the Atlas so mine has more than enough room to fall out without binding up.

Cinching down either end lowers the center of gravity and keeps it there when the weight transfers when the vehicle climbs or decends steep verticals or when you traverse off camber sections of trails. I like to suck down both ends at the same time when I am off camber. Just the front when I am going up something very steep and just the rear when I am dropping off a ledge.

It makes a TON of difference. My truck used to be 65% heavy in the front and coming off steep ledges used to be major pucker, but when I figured out how to compress the suspension, it is a breeze.

 

[rusty_tlc]

After thinking about this for a while I think I get it conceptualy, thanks for your patience.

So what did you mean when you said?

Woody,

<snipped>...

If you want to do the front only.....well, with leafs, good luck. ...<snipped>

 

[wngrog]

After thinking about this for a while I think I get it conceptualy, thanks for your patience.

So what did you mean when you said?

It works to keep your front from unloading, but to cinch down leaf springs using a front mounted winch is not going to get you much in the way of squatting the suspension.

Mine would squat some, but not like a linked suspension would.

 

[gunmetalcruz]

....... if you run the rope off the back off the spool under the stock crossmember over a oil pan tube then to the back of the housing. It sucks down plenty. I can bottom out the air bumps and complety negative arch the springs, in a buggy usaully the engine is mounted lower in the chassis and the harmonic coming in contact when sucked down is usually more of a isssue. I would think i proablly drop the front end 6 inch's. With leafs, if you run off the front of the winch like link style all that happens is the front end gets pulled forward. Got to have the oilpan tube. Then it's on.

 

[rusty_tlc]

....... if you run the rope off the back off the spool under the stock crossmember over a oil pan tube then to the back of the housing. It sucks down plenty. I can bottom out the air bumps and complety negative arch the springs, in a buggy usaully the engine is mounted lower in the chassis and the harmonic coming in contact when sucked down is usually more of a isssue. I would think i proablly drop the front end 6 inch's. With leafs, if you run off the front of the winch like link style all that happens is the front end gets pulled forward. Got to have the oilpan tube. Then it's on.

Pictures?

 

[TURNMEOVER]

resurection

Sorry to resurect such an old thread but I am confused and I have a few questions.

I understand the principal in cinching and limiting. Is there any benifits in both or should I just cinch the front and rear and not limit them or will a rig benifit from both ?

Please explain your response . This is my first crawler and I am trying to build a bad ass machine the first time.

I know it is impossible !

I will succede.

Quiters never win and winners never quit.