What should my front and rear pinion angles be for my 92 FJ? Well what is the acceptable range?
Front and Rear pinion angles? (1 Viewer)
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Anyone?
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
you may can determinate the front by measuring caster .. I mean if caster it's within range pinion angle should be like factory ..
Tapage said:
You said caster. Now the thread is doomed. Haha.
Caster trumps pinion angle....because it has to, but if lifted more than. 2", it's not possible to maintain the OE angle, nor adjust pinion angle, necessitating different drive shaft joints, or a part time kit to minimize driveline vibrations.
The rear is easy. The output flanges can maintain parallel by extending links, until elevating above 4" ( approximate. I'm initiating the dialogue and many will dissect and correct every word typed). Above. 4", adjust links to point the diff at the TC and run a DC shaft.
NO...
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Thanks for the responses guys. I should have explained myself a little better. I started with a 2.5" lift then moved to J Springs with 30mm coil spacers. Now I'm putting on 7" TJM coils. Well they are already on just trying to cover my bases with other stuff.
Front:
I have the stock radius arms now with caster bushing CA77B that came with a 2.5" OME lift kit I got from Slee. I was planing on installing caster plates in conjunction with them to achieve an acceptable castor and/or pinion angle for the front. Will that be enough? Too much? What am I looking for I guess I should ask.
Rear:
I have heavy duty extended lower control arms installed already. I also have adjustable upper control arms that I'm going to install if needed. Just wondering what my rear pinion angle should be. No clue what it was stock.
Side note - The truck isn't a DD and only sees road use on occasion. Still want to have it setup as good as it can be though.
Front:
I have the stock radius arms now with caster bushing CA77B that came with a 2.5" OME lift kit I got from Slee. I was planing on installing caster plates in conjunction with them to achieve an acceptable castor and/or pinion angle for the front. Will that be enough? Too much? What am I looking for I guess I should ask.
Rear:
I have heavy duty extended lower control arms installed already. I also have adjustable upper control arms that I'm going to install if needed. Just wondering what my rear pinion angle should be. No clue what it was stock.
Side note - The truck isn't a DD and only sees road use on occasion. Still want to have it setup as good as it can be though.
He'll no 
. You will be at neg 2 caster with plates. You will either need 6-7" after market arms or a custom housing.
How you check your rear. Buy a digital bevel box. Put it on the trans output shaft and set it to 0.0.
Then put it on your rear pinion flange, and adjust upper link lengths until it reads 180.0. Then they are in parrallel.
As you can see. With a 5" lift. The stock unequal 5 link set up. Is only out by 3.2 degree's which is nothing. So not much adjusting will be needed.
Honestly, unless you hand it over to reputable link suspension guy to do. It will drive like total crap. Done right though. It won't be too bad at all. But will be expensive.
. You will be at neg 2 caster with plates. You will either need 6-7" after market arms or a custom housing. How you check your rear. Buy a digital bevel box. Put it on the trans output shaft and set it to 0.0.
Then put it on your rear pinion flange, and adjust upper link lengths until it reads 180.0. Then they are in parrallel.
As you can see. With a 5" lift. The stock unequal 5 link set up. Is only out by 3.2 degree's which is nothing. So not much adjusting will be needed.
Honestly, unless you hand it over to reputable link suspension guy to do. It will drive like total crap
. Done right though. It won't be too bad at all. But will be expensive.
Reading the flanges as described above is only acceptable if you know you are going to run a stock single cardon shaft in a traditional setup. This doesn't allow you to evaluate for the possibility of broken back or a DC shaft.
You are better served to read the operating angle of the joints. This is no more difficult and provides a clearer picture of what you are dealing with.
And tumbling the digital gauge as above is really confusing.
Simply hold the gauge upright with the top surface against the drive shaft tube and zero it.
Now with out flip flopping it or rotating it just use the left side to read one flange on the left and the right side to read the one on the right.
Those reading will be the operating angles of the u-joints at their respective ends.
For a stock shaft you want them to be the same and for a DC shaft you want the one at the diff to be zero degrees.
To determine direction hold the gauge against the flange with it reading 0.0 and note where the gap is between the gauge and the flange. The gap will either be at the top or the bottom.
If both gaps are in the same location then that would indicate a broken back setup and if they are opposite then that would be a traditional setup.
Now that you know the direction and the amount of the angle you can determine what type of shaft and what has to be done to get a smooth running drive line.
You are better served to read the operating angle of the joints. This is no more difficult and provides a clearer picture of what you are dealing with.
And tumbling the digital gauge as above is really confusing.
Simply hold the gauge upright with the top surface against the drive shaft tube and zero it.
Now with out flip flopping it or rotating it just use the left side to read one flange on the left and the right side to read the one on the right.
Those reading will be the operating angles of the u-joints at their respective ends.
For a stock shaft you want them to be the same and for a DC shaft you want the one at the diff to be zero degrees.
To determine direction hold the gauge against the flange with it reading 0.0 and note where the gap is between the gauge and the flange. The gap will either be at the top or the bottom.
If both gaps are in the same location then that would indicate a broken back setup and if they are opposite then that would be a traditional setup.
Now that you know the direction and the amount of the angle you can determine what type of shaft and what has to be done to get a smooth running drive line.
Wait a minute Rick, we all know that DC shaft don't really work!
Sorry, I couldn't resist.
Sorry, I couldn't resist.
I was answering the op's question on the easiest way to measure (for the rear). If both flanges are parrallel. Both uni angles will be the same period. So it's easy as to measure. Someone would have to love wasting time and money deciding to go a DC rear. At 5" it's out 3*. Nothing and no vibrations.
Adjusting for DC. Rolls coil mounts, shocks and panhard too far from factory. Pinion bearing oiling? Replace lower arms = $$$ wasted. Replacement uppers = $$$ wasted. DC shaft = $$$ wasted.
I think the big problem here Rick is "what set up is better?" For link or RA. Big mistake from the Toyota design team with this set up. Look at all the problems it's causing from lifted trucks. If they had set it up as a PF there would be no issues at all with lifted truck vibrations. Until its lifted high enough to reach the limit of uni angle.
I'm still waiting to see pics, angles and proof of a front working DC shaft at 4" of lift.
Adjusting for DC. Rolls coil mounts, shocks and panhard too far from factory. Pinion bearing oiling? Replace lower arms = $$$ wasted. Replacement uppers = $$$ wasted. DC shaft = $$$ wasted.
I think the big problem here Rick is "what set up is better?" For link or RA. Big mistake from the Toyota design team with this set up. Look at all the problems it's causing from lifted trucks. If they had set it up as a PF there would be no issues at all with lifted truck vibrations. Until its lifted high enough to reach the limit of uni angle.
I'm still waiting to see pics, angles and proof of a front working DC shaft at 4" of lift.
Tapage
Club 4X4 Panamá
whaaaaat !!!
Are you serious ..?
If there is any mistake here it's from us lifting a truck ..
Mr. T Did an outstanding job designing 80 series as an all around 4x4 pretty capable, comfy, durable etc etc etc in it's stock form ..
Shame on us ( or at least on me ) who modify years of engineering and testing ..
Yeah, your right. Was not a mistake. Maybe they did it to try and stop people from lifting them .
