From inside truck to roof rack wiring transition (1 Viewer)

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Foam Lake, SK
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www.toontoys.ca
I'm still looking for a solution for the wiring that goes from inside of the truck to a roof rack mounted solar panel and LED lights

1) Easy to "undo"
2) waterproof
3) would like a solid mount on the truck side. I don't mind drilling holes.
4) 6 terminals would be great, 4 would work.

Any connectors meet my needs out there?
 
If drilling holes is okay then just get some quality marine "Glands" and get to work.

I was not okay with drilling the body in my highly corrosive salt air environment so I merely ran the solar cables in through the back hatch next to the hinge. Now I want to shorten the run so I'm gonna go in the passenger door and then under some interior trim.

I used to know some better brands and models of pass throughs (glands) and if I can think of any I will post back.
 
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How much power do you need on the rack?
12v or 24v system?
And how fancy/functional does it need to be?

You could have a look at 6 pin harting connectors, they are big and bulky and they do last but I've never used them outside for a long time.
Phoenix contact produce a "HEAVYCON" plug up to IP69K.

Another nice and smaller connector would be a ip67 M12 connector, do a google search you'll find them.

A google search for "ip67 connectors" will find you a big range of waterproof connectors.

On a lot of campers for solar panels and such they do not use connectors but a simple throug-roof-junction box. The only thing is, this is not easy to disconnect.

Or like @JCruse said, some good quality "cable glands". These are also not easy to disconnect.

You could also go ultra fancy and use some sort of wireless power transfer. The picture below is a system that I designed and implement in some factories for wireless charging etc (pcb's not pictured). The system below does about 100 watts at 12v, but 200w should not be a problem.

I once thought about using this for a roof lightbar on my own LC100. No cables ziptied to the body, no holes in the body and no cables through the doors. I know this isn't really an easy option but I thought I'd mention an "out of the box" solution. Oh and metal between the coils won't work. A hole or a cable through the door would be easier, more efficient and a lot cheaper.

WhatsApp Image 2017-11-15 at 13.21.00.jpeg
 
I'm still looking for a solution for the wiring that goes from inside of the truck to a roof rack mounted solar panel and LED lights

1) Easy to "undo"
2) waterproof
3) would like a solid mount on the truck side. I don't mind drilling holes.
4) 6 terminals would be great, 4 would work.

Any connectors meet my needs out there?
I got my dual rigids thru the back clamshell and thru the wiper spray boot, no drill and I got ny solar and roof top led bar down the gutter and in through snorkel hole again no holes Ill post pics if you like
 
I only need about 10 amps up there on 24V. I've used AMP connectors in the past but like them for firewall applications over the roof.

The glands are nice for the through panel wiring but there's no disconnect. Then it's just a duetch connector flopping around

That wireless option is WAY cool but beyond my expertise!!

The roof racks come on and off. Needs to be easy.
 
It's nice to have the cap to protect the connector from the elements when the roof rack is off the car.
A conector like this.

Easy to connect and disconnect, waterproof, screw on cap for when not in use.
This one has only four terminals, I think you can also find six with a bit of google magic.
 
yes, those answer the water proof issue and the through the roof issue but not my connection issue unless I have a pig tail flapping in the wind
 
What about a flange connector like this? You then order a second “male” side and just silicon or epoxy the end so that when you remove the rack you could plug in this blank plug to protect the connectors.

https://www.amazon.com/Deutsch-14-1...pID=41DuFHPMC6L&preST=_SX300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

Or a “deck” connector. I have used these on livestock scales but I don’t see why they would not work. Not a lot of Amazon but any electrical supply supply house should carry.
 
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I would run two of these. One for the solar and one for the lights. Waterproof and solid in and out of use. I have had one on my front bumper for my block heater for years and it holds up great. NOCO
 
If you use the deutsch flange connector:

1) Get the gasket that is available for the appropriate size (# of pins) or make a gasket.
2) Seal the connector where it is 'welded/melted' into the flange base - otherwise it WILL leak.

cheers,
george.
 
Really like the Delphi's - waterproof, made my auto mfg company, you can mix and match wire size in the same connector, as well as a bazillion sizes shapes and configurations
images
 
Recently looked at a rig at Torfab which had a kl the roof accessories run to a fuse box mounted to the underside of the roof rack.

They ran the solar controller to that as well. Only thing they had tied in to the truck was a 2 wire Anderson power pole connector which ran out of the back hatch.

They could disconnect the roof rack and one wire and then lift the roof rack off the trick and hang it off the ceiling for storage.

It was a really clean set-up.
 
I don't know if you got this figured out or not, but I was wandering through here and remembered
a really nice, clean set up from a guy I know. Here is the thread.

RTT Solar Panel
 

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