FRICKEN EDIC MOTOR! - Kicking in while driving.

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new45

new45

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I have a HJ47 Landcrusier with a 2H diesel engine and an EDIC motor. Before anyone offers this as a suggestion I will be keeping the EDIC motor and refuse to install a cable.

My problem is that while driving with the headlights on and only with the headlights on the EDIC motor is kicking in and making the car rapidly slow and then surge.

I can hear the relay kicking in somewhere on the passenger side but I cant find the damn thing.

I would appreciate any help in fixing this problem. Heres what I have done so far.

1. Replaced the battery, thinking it was a voltage drop issue.

2. Replaced the alternator.

3. cleaned all the grounds comming off the battery.



Any help as to where I should be hunting next?
 
Good for you keeping your EDIC, it's a simple system but people still continue to butcher them rather than spending a few minutes working out the issues.

Sorry I can't be more help then that at the moment, I'll have a think about it and get back to you if anything comes to mind.
 
OK, I had a quick look. There is no rely in the EDIC circuit so I am assuming that what you are hearing is the EDIC motor turning back to the no fuel position (but I could be wrong).

Two things that will cause your EDIC to go to the no fuel position are the low oil pressure switch signal or no ignition (key on) voltage. First check your wiring and connections going to your oil pressure switch (you will have two, one is for the oil gauge the other is for the EDIC make sure your testing the right one), wiggle them with the engine running to see if you get anything. Second pull your engine fuse and clean it, this supplies ignition power to your EDIC.

As for the only happens with the headlight on issue I have to admit I'm at a loss, the two circuit are completely separate. The only link I could make is a bad connection in your ignition power supply to your EDIC motor (most likely at your engine fuse), once the extra load of the headlights comes onto the circuit the lower voltage and the voltage lost through the bad connection become enough to give you a low enough voltage at your EDIC motor to cause it to think it has lost ignition power.

Goodluck
 
I would suspect your edic (fuel) control relay (fuel control relay) maybe the problem, it is bolted on the left hand side foot well beside the glove box, just slide your hand up there and you will feel it, ( if your vehicle is a LHD it will be on the right hand side), photos below show what it looks like.

EDICtofud1.jpg


This controls the edic motor, this relay moves the edic motor arm attached to your IP, see attached photo.

EDIC1_NEW.jpg



12VBJ42FCRFCM.jpg


You can test the relay.

FeedbackTheoryA.jpg


Also test your low oil pressure cut off switch to see if its faulty
 
Thank you watrob,

Do you suggest replacing the relay? is it available new?

Im a little lost,

Thanks,
Rog
 
Points to wiring/grounds and the Fuel Control Relay, however make sure your ground from engine to frame, and battery to frame are good. Your fuel control motor grounds through the block iirc.

As suggested, having it only happen when your headlights are on suggests it's not oil pressure, but have you checked your oil pressure anyway cold and hot and high rpm and idle with a mechanical gauge?

Check all ground connections on the headlight circuit as well.

A search using the term "funky chicken" yields lots of reading and a few more ideas: https://forum.ih8mud.com/search/696836/?q=Funky+Chicken&o=relevance&c[node]=24

Good luck! Electrical is a joy to chase down...but worth the effort to keep the EDIC system working as it should.
gb
 
"Check all ground connections on the headlight circuit as well."

x2 on headlight wiring review….Disclaimer = I don't know anything about these things but when you say:

" My problem is that while driving with the headlights on and only with the headlights on the EDIC motor is kicking in and making the car rapidly slow and then surge."

I think of the headlight wiring as something worth checking……On the other hand…If it was a land rover the proper solution would be to not dare motoring after dark……

Good luck!
 
Perhaps check the contacts inside the relay. If they are worn/corroded, they may not be passing much power (poor connection). I had similar issues (but not involving my headlights) and took a fine file to the contact points; no more problems.
 
I'm with those who suggest "poor grounds" and "poor switching contacts".

But as well as those switching contacts inside your EDIC relay (aka Fuel Control Relay) there are more inside your Fuel Control Motor gearbox and these ones often get grease interfering with their operation (especially if a previous owner has been over-zealous in applying fresh grease inside there).

In fact, I'd go so far as to advise checking inside the EDIC gearbox first (because you've already looked at your grounds and any problem with your engine grounds would first and foremost be exposed by poor starter-motor cranking rpms ... which you haven't mentioned).

Of course there could be a grounding problem related to the "EDIC Relay/Fuel Control Relay". So bear that in mind too.

But getting inside the relay is a pita compared to getting inside the little motor/gearbox. And from what I've heard, the relays mainly give trouble only if water's gotten inside them.

As I recall, you just remove the top plate (arrowed) to get at the electrical contacts that are used to give feedback to the relay (advising it when the gearbox has moved the injector-pump-controlarm to the desired position, whether it be fuel-off, normal-run, or over-fuel).
EDIC2.jpg



:beer:
 
I seem to recall some people having EDIC issues popping up with a combination of bad grounds and a failing alternator. I'll see if I can find the topics.
 
I see what you mean when you refer to the EDIC relay now, my apologies I must of sounded a bit nuts in my post claiming the circuit has no relay in it. I'd personally call that the EDIC controller (to avoid confusion with a standard relay) but that is what Toyota named it so I won't argue.

It's pretty unlikely that the fuel control relay is internally faulty, I'd be checking all the simple things first before replacing it unless you can borrow one for testing purposes.
 
lostmarbles said:
I'm with those who suggest "poor grounds" and "poor switching contacts".

In fact, I'd go so far as to advise checking inside the EDIC gearbox first (because you've already looked at your grounds and any problem with your engine grounds would first and foremost be exposed by poor starter-motor cranking rpms ... which you haven't mentioned).:beer:
Click to expand...


Somebody (I think this year) posted a great detailed write-up into the guts of the Fuel Control Motor, when they got into theirs to clean the contact disc on the bottom. I can't find it...but I remember seeing it on Mud.

gb
 
Last edited:
Thanks for posting up the info on testing an EDIC motor watrob! Saved me a few dollars on a new EDIC there ;)
 
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