Franken470 Build (1 Viewer)

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How reduced is the steering angle with this? Any pictures of the wheels at full lock? Obviously those uniballs are insanely strong in the upper and lower arms but it seems like it would limit the steering a ton. I think when I looked at building something similar for mine the max uniball angle was like 20 degrees
 
How reduced is the steering angle with this? Any pictures of the wheels at full lock? Obviously those uniballs are insanely strong in the upper and lower arms but it seems like it would limit the steering a ton. I think when I looked at building something similar for mine the max uniball angle was like 20 degrees
I’ve driven it lock to lock and didn’t notice any loss in radius. They spent a good bit of time on engineering the outer marrack links, mounts, length to optimize steering because the 200 series rack is bigger. I’ll get some pictures next time I’m with the truck.

I’m the first install that is running a body lift and have to make some input shaft adjustments before I’m ready to take her down the Highway.
 
wow looks insane. definitely interested to hear your on road driving experience with the kit. looks super good. interesting that they decided to go with a oem style inner tie rod instead of a heim.
Just following back up after having it on and off the road for a few months. I love the results of the kit. The community around the early adopters of RCLT has been amazing and we have made a few tweaks to the kit via feedback as we have run our trucks. I've been on 2 great wheeling trips to Windrock and Hot Springs ORV. The latter was just a few weeks ago and I was wheeling with my normal crew so we definitely pushed the limits and I ended up blowing my rear differential which I knew would happen eventually. We ran some of the hardest trails the park had to offer and the kit made it possible on 35" tires helping maintain contact for traction etc. I can't wait for my axle upgrade, locker's and 37's which should all happen before the first of the year.
 
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Finally got some time to swing by the shop today and bolt in the housing.
Brake lines swapped, diff studs installed, brackets and extended the lower links .6” to start. My plan was to push the axle back slightly to help keep out of the rear door portion of the fender well. I’ve got to now adjust the upper links for the pinion angle and bring it back closer to the factory geometry. It’s actually flat on the face now which needs 3-5 degrees of rotation based on my eyeball geometry.
I’ll adjust the uppers and throw the differential in tomorrow hopefully and begin to plumb the air lines for the locker.
Waiting on the front clamshell still (they said the wrong spacers were shipped so they could finish my build.
My 37’s are actually in the background currently on my buddies 40, trying to goad him out bro buying a set.
 
Adding lockers, compressor, scene lights, etc was going to mean more swichtes than I had room for. I purchased this great panel delete from Ohana Rig Supply and a a cheap controller from AuxBeam, I'll likely upgrade to a switch pros when the time comes.

Installed ORS Mount and Auxbeam switch.jpg
 
With the help of a "power panel" I managed to squeeze the dual compressor and manifold back to the brake booster and also still have barely enough clearance to open the fuse panel under the hood without removing the tray and compressor.

ARB install.jpg
 
I wont the Nomad valve body upgrade a couple years ago at Lonestar Roundup, I finally had the time and budget to make some additional installs and got scheduled with Valley Hybrids. I drove from MS to CA and they totally hooked me up with amazing hospitality and great work on the new LRA, Nomad, Torque converter lockup, and upgraded trans cooler.

LRA Instal.jpg


Nomad Valve Body.jpg
 
Wow…impressive build. RCLT seems to be revolutionizing the offroad capabilities of the Toyota IFS
 
Wow…impressive build. RCLT seems to be revolutionizing the offroad capabilities of the Toyota IFS
I’m very happy with the kit, it performs so well on and off road.

I don’t have a comparison to a TC kit etc, but if you compare the cost without axles and steering rack, then add spindle gussets or something in that realm to be comparable to other LT kits and what they include the costs are more comparable and the ground clearance gain is the true winner, along with not having ball joints etc.

Everyone had different opinions and I’m glad I went this route on the truck.
 
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Here we are some time later… I’m replacing the 200 rack again (I blame my initial install, which marlin helped sort after an extended stay in Cali). I’ve wheeled Rubicon, Windrock, ARkansas, KAT, and various other outings along with driving the truck to and from Cali for rubicon, South Dakota and back, Kentucky for numerous trips and all around the SEUSA just to say I’m very happy with the ride quality, drivability for long distance especially with the added range of the LRA tank, and the wheeling has been great. I followed 4link buggies on 40-42’s on rubicon and didn’t skip a beat. One day I’ll make the jump and chop up the body some more but for now I’m SUPER happy with the build and all it can do and still be a daily driver on 37’s.
 
@Franken470 what went wrong with the rack install?
Me… I didn’t clearance the motor mount adequately and had a few MM of running from the sector shaft to the motor mount causing stress on the steering.
 
Me… I didn’t clearance the motor mount adequately and had a few MM of running from the sector shaft to the motor mount causing stress on the steering.
it may have been you, but there was the same issue on Shannon's. We had to clearance and reclearance mine and hers. It isn't as easy as it looks as the sector shaft moves side to side when you turn.
 
it may have been you, but there was the same issue on Shannon's. We had to clearance and reclearance mine and hers. It isn't as easy as it looks as the sector shaft moves side to side when you turn.
Check the tolerance in your “rag link”… I found through some reading that the tacomas are known for going out and with the added stress of the things we do, I’d be willing to bet the Kevlar joint is bending more than it should. It’s a $100 part and will likely be a part that gets replaced more often with our setups.
 
@Franken470 has done this thing right. Detailed research in to each choice into the build with really nice build quality. Impressive work.
 
Check the tolerance in your “rag link”… I found through some reading that the tacomas are known for going out and with the added stress of the things we do, I’d be willing to bet the Kevlar joint is bending more than it should. It’s a $100 part and will likely be a part that gets replaced more often with our setups.
Come on now. You think I would use an old intermediate shaft? :p Both trucks have brand new. It is the clearance at the axle with the repositioning of the bottom interface with the wider rack that gets it close to the frame and the bead of weld that sits right there. A little grinding is all it took.
 
@Franken470 has done this thing right. Detailed research in to each choice into the build with really nice build quality. Impressive work.
He does indeed! We have been sharing plans and progress and notes as I got mine done and he started his and we progressed to my wife's. What we really need is an east coast RCLT run somewhere.
 
He does indeed! We have been sharing plans and progress and notes as I got mine done and he started his and we progressed to my wife's. What we really need is an east coast RCLT run somewhere.
I’m in!! Breaking in new gear set as we speak.
 

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