Frame Twist (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Apr 30, 2014
Threads
15
Messages
395
Location
Montana
1) How much is your frame twisted?

I’m curious what seems to be normal in these old rigs?

I guess some standard of measurement would be needed for consistent usable info.

My 1973 isn’t complete, so my measurements were with rig weight on and my rear leafs tacked, shackle angle set. I leveled the rear. Then I balanced the front (no axle installed) on a single point on front x member, engine/tranny/tc weight in, so that the front could more or less freely roll laterally.

In this condition, with rear level, my front left is ⅜” to ½” low. Measured from level floor to bottom of frame near spring hanger(SR)

And further, if yours has twist, how does it track down the road? Does it drive well or not? Any pulling?

2) I figure I could build my front spring hangers to level my front. I’d have to add thickness on the right to have Springs be level. But is that a dumb idea? What might that do to drivability? Perhaps I should consult a frame shop. Maybe I’m over thinking it. Crap, my 4Runner leans
 
IIRC, the original Toyota spec for 40 frames was 1/4" from corner to corner, so I'd say you are GTG.
Not to mention, take it out wheeling a few times and you'll probably get a different measurement afterward each time. They riveted the frames so they would flex and be a "part of the suspension".
 
Chassis and body repair manual has dimensions and tolerances.
 
As already mentioned FJ40 frames are designed to twist. I would not try to "compensate" for that in any way while rebuilding it.

Nick
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom