Frame boxing......worth it?? (1 Viewer)

[xjnation]

Is it really worth it to box the frame on a 40? I've got the body off and the frame is getting wire wheeled and sanded nightly. My concern is I already pulled about 5 lbs of sand and rock from where the frame is factory "boxed" and don't want a bunch of crap to keep getting in there and along the rest of the frame. I have a plasma cutter and plenty of 3/16ths steel, so it wouldnt be too hard. But is it worth it for a DD, mild wheeler? Any problems with crap building up in a boxed frame??
I already know what I'm going to do, just getting opinions and want to get rid of the "Hello xjnation it appears that you have not posted on our forums in several weeks, why not take a few moments to ask a question, help provide a solution or just engage in a conversation with another member in any one of our forums?" ya know. Tim

 

[Cruiserdrew]

I was going to do it when the body was off, but I checked with OrangeFJ45 and Mudrak and both said not to bother. So, I didn't do it.

If I ever take my 60 off the frame, I will box it just because it's there!

 

[DSRTRDR]

This happened to me last year:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=856677&postcount=1

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=881001&postcount=23

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php?p=881011&postcount=24

and Markh recently:

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=171354

needless to say, I vote for boxing but then, I actually wheel my truck

 

[Cruiserdrew]

So Clauida, since it broke in a boxed section, how would boxing the rear of the frame have helped that?



Edit--And if the original poster was asking about boxing the front of the frame, I highly recommend that. Most do that in the setting of a power steering conversion. Mine is boxed with long outside 1/4 plate and inner frame is boxed with 3/8 on the steering box side,a nd 1/4 on the opposite side.

 

[F-junker]

I would recommend boxing the rear sections where the rear leaf spring hangers are located as this is a common area of weakness. If its an easy thing to do at this point then why not do it? If you have the plasma torch, the steel and the time; then why not box in the entire rear and close off the holes in the side rails and plug weld all of the small holes shut. That would eliminate the accumulation of mud and sediment wouldn't it???

 

[shelfboy1]

dont know how this works in other areas but here with the salt and four wheeling we fill them with foam trim it and cover it with bedliner. keeps out everything im sure their is a down side but havnt found it yet .plus we box front and around rear shackles and reinforce that rear spring hanger it will still break boxed or not good luck

 

[DSRTRDR]

So Claudia, since it broke in a boxed section, how would boxing the rear of the frame have helped that?



Edit--And if the original poster was asking about boxing the front of the frame, I highly recommend that. Most do that in the setting of a power steering conversion. Mine is boxed with long outside 1/4 plate and inner frame is boxed with 3/8 on the steering box side,a nd 1/4 on the opposite side.

the OEM boxing of the frame stops just at the spring hanger - if the frame had been boxed before, it would not have been able to flex as much at the spring hanger

 

[JJS]

I would recommend boxing the rear sections where the rear leaf spring hangers are located as this is a common area of weakness. If its an easy thing to do at this point then why not do it? If you have the plasma torch, the steel and the time; then why not box in the entire rear and close off the holes in the side rails and plug weld all of the small holes shut. That would eliminate the accumulation of mud and sediment wouldn't it???

Not necessarily. Crap still manages to get in there, and will rot it out from the inside. I've seen it on my own. It's good to have some access points to spray ATF, Fluid Film, etc. in there for rustproofing. Part of my frame was boxed out of necessity. I think I need to do the opposite side behind the hanger as well, eventhough it's in good shape.