Found the part

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JimJ

ATOYOHOLIC
Joined
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Location
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Website
www.nanaimojim.com
Hey Guys, the build is coming along but require a late model non-vacume manual transfer case Shifter and its linkage mated to a 5sp transmission.
If you got one that you can spare for sale, please PM me or email over the details.
Thank you, much appriaited!
JJ

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I reached out to Jay he is going to take a look and see if he has it in his parts, and I tried Steve at EBI too but no luck there.
Pat wheeled with me this weekend and said he is going to look through his stuff too.
They do make an aftermarket kit with dual levers, but hoping to keep her stock.
thanks guys have a great day!
 
Is it any different from the linkage from a newer 4 speed? Could the four one be made to work?
 
 
Thank you great info!
 
I found a used one recently for the same mod but it took a while FYI
 
You can and I have twice turned the vacuum into a manual. I split the case and took the vacuum assembly off removed the selector shaft and drilled out the factory cast recessed spot for a detent ball in the front half of the case. They all have it like it was meant to be a manual
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Tap the hole for a detent cap I used a brass 3/8 plug, find a appropriate ball bearing and spring. Next install the selector shaft lock it into 4wheel and mark the shaft locked and unlocked then remove and carve a grove into the shaft on your marked locked and unlocked with a grinder. There’s already a grove in the shaft for the 4wheel drive switch to copy for depth.

Then all you need the shifter boot and seal for for the front nose of the Tcase (Split case 4 wheel drive selector shaft seal 90311-22005
Split case 4 wheel drive selector shaft boot 36318-60020)
and to find the manual tcase shift arm which i did or weld and extension onto it to catch the selector shaft that already comes with the correct linkage catch even though it’s a vacuum case.

Course you can buy all the detent and the correct selector parts to swap it over from Toyota also but no need. Just like people these Tcases are all pretty much the same inside :lol:

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Just got home and did some digging. Not sure this would work for you because it’s from a 78 Bj40 so the angles might be all wrong but I can compare it to my late bj60 when I get a chance.

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Just got home and did some digging. Not sure this would work for you because it’s from a 78 Bj40 so the angles might be all wrong but I can compare it to my late bj60 when I get a chance.

View attachment 2830198
It looks correct, might work
Do you have the linkage with it too?
thanks Steve
 
Is the vacuum case not working? I inherited a half built manual case and had to piece together the rest. If there’s nothing wrong with yours just leave it or repair it with cheap parts that everyone thinks they don’t need. Mine was too far in so I dove deeper. Just a couple cents of advice. I’m no expert but haven’t heard or too many failing.
 
I find my vacuum case to be just fine too. Never had a prob. It's same as the late 60 one.
 
Hi Jim. If you do use the vacuum solenoids, test each of the hoses for vacuum before you connect to the actuator on the transfer case nose. It takes surprisingly little vacuum to actuate the diaphragm. One of the solenoids has to always be providing suction either for 2 or 4 WD. However mine had a problem and never worked properly even after switching out the solenoids with other ones, and would either both be on or both off, resulting in some minor damage to the front output shift splines. I ended up bypassing the solenoids and using a manual vacuum switch. With no more electronics involved, bonus is that I now have RWD Low option too, even with front hubs locked.
 
Hi Jim. If you do use the vacuum solenoids, test each of the hoses for vacuum before you connect to the actuator on the transfer case nose. It takes surprisingly little vacuum to actuate the diaphragm. One of the solenoids has to always be providing suction either for 2 or 4 WD. However mine had a problem and never worked properly even after switching out the solenoids with other ones, and would either both be on or both off, resulting in some minor damage to the front output shift splines. I ended up bypassing the solenoids and using a manual vacuum switch. With no more electronics involved, bonus is that I now have RWD Low option too, even with front hubs locked.
What did you use for a manual vacuum switch?

I've had drawing of one I planned to build on my shop wall for a year...

I also have some old HVAC toggle switches I could use maybe.

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Mine still work, but one day they won't.
 
What did you use for a manual vacuum switch?
I'll see if I can dig up the old invoice with the supplier name and part number - it was not expensive or unique.
 
But why???

There’s better options.

See my earlier post ^^^
Better than what?

As long as I'm stuck with vacuum, I'd rather have a manual switch than rely on dodgy old 24v solenoids.

I wanted to build the switch just for a fun lathe project

At some point I'll put a rebuild kit in my tcase, and maybe then convert to manual.

Next summer maybe.
 
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