Builds FlyingWil's FZJ80 Build thread... (4 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 7, 2007
Threads
8
Messages
68
Location
Tempe, AZ
Website
www.sierraexpeditions.com
I picked up this 1996 80 series, with just shy of 96,000 miles on the ticker....

2011-07-12%25252008.26.31.jpg


Current Pic:
001.JPG


Current Mods:

Interior:

Suspension / Tires:
Engine:Storage:Aux Lighting:
 
Last edited:
Planned mods

[Placeholder for mods]

Planned Mods:

Electrical:

Armor:
  • ARB Modular Rear Bumper
  • Skids - TBD
  • Sliders - MetalTech
Traction:
  • ARB Airlockers
Camping Equipment:
  • RTT
  • ARB Fridge
Storage:
  • Under plastic water bladders (currently inbound from OZ)
Communication:
  • 2M - TBD
  • CB - TBD
 
Last edited:
CDL & Cup Holder

Well, I started with the easiest mods for the 80; the center diff lock switch and OEM cupholder.

I put the CDL switch where the glass break sensor was located and re-located the glass break sensor to the bottom row next to the cigarette lighter.

tlc%252520016.JPG


I did not do the 7-Pin mod, as I am still unsure of the benefits of the mod with out the factory lockers. (Read: I need to spend more time on MUD researching the mod).

Also if anyone has an trashed OEM stereo, I am looking for the EQ knobs. PM or e-mail me if you have any.
 
I selected the Front Runner Wind Cheetah Slimline Roof Rack for Toyota Land Cruiser 80 Series 2.2 Meter Rack with Tall Feet, so that I can run the optional table.
Add-ons to the Rack:


I choose the FrontRunner rack because I am huge fan of the modular design. The slats, or crossbars are uniformly spaced at 8" apart, center to center with a "T" slot extruded in each slat willing to accept an 8mm hex head bolt slot. Both the top and bottom have this "T" slot, or "C" channel. Ontop of the modular design, its lightweight weighing in at 56 pounds (made from aluminum), and strong... We've had several people standing on one rack in the past :)

Here is the Rack, right out of the packaging:
tlc%252520001.JPG

One thing to note, about the above picture is the two grooves that go around the exterior of the rack. These two "lines" are a hole centering guideline indentation on edge of basket, these are used to center the bolt on accessories.

Starting with adding the accessories that mount underneath the rack, we started installing the air deflector, light tabs, and table mount.

Initial air deflector install:
tlc%252520008.JPG

The air deflector will need to be drilled to accommodate the light tabs. There will be 4 tabs, so the two in the center will require modification to the deflector.

Here are the Light Tabs:
tlc%252520002.JPG

In the picture you can see the bottom two bolts on each tab are installed into the "T" slots, and the front portion of the tab needs to be drilled into the rack basket.

Here is two of the four installed, with the test fit of the Rigid Industries U cradle for the LED Light Bar:
tlc%252520009.JPG


Drilling the Basket for the center two light tabs:
tlc%252520011.JPG


At this point we flipped the rack over to work on the bottom side to install the Table Mount and start affixing the center two light tabs.

Here is the table and the mounts:
tlc%252520007.JPG


The Front Runner table mounts again mount into the "T" slots, and requires one hole to be drilled in the basket for the stay.
tlc%252520013.JPG


Ok rack on...

tlc%252520x2%252520010.JPG


Here you can see the clearance of the Front Runner airdam vs sunroof in the vent position.
tlc%252520x2%252520011.JPG


With the tall feet the Rack clears the OEM rack.... however one of the OEM crossbars must be removed to fit the table.
tlc%252520x2%252520012.JPG


Here is the Rigid Industries 40" E Series LED Bar Mounted using the U Cradle and 4 Frontrunner Light Brackets.
tlc%252520x2%252520018.JPG


Now to remove the 2nd OEM cross Bar and wire in the LED Lights.
 
Sfari Snorkel

Well next the Safari Snorkel went on.

Install is pretty easy, same as almost all Safari Snorkels.

Mark your holes using the supplied template, and drill/deburr/paint. (we rip out an area for the antenna)
TLC%25252080%252520SS%252520011.JPG


Test fit and mark holes for the A-Pilar holes, drill, deburr, and paint, and silicone...
TLC%25252080%252520SS%252520012.JPG


Install back washers and lock nuts... This is the hard part, you need to be contortionist to get the back top bolt.
TLC%25252080%252520SS%252520014.JPG


Kyle's contortionist position:
TLC%25252080%252520SS%252520013.JPG


Hook everything back up and you're good:
TLC%25252080%252520SS%252520016.JPG


While I was at it we flipped the Rigid LED bar to the bottom side. Will give it a shot and see how it does sound wise.
TLC%25252080%252520SS%252520018.JPG
 
ARB Front Bumper w/ Warn VR12000

Well the ARB bumper is on.. The 80 Series ARB bumper is about one of the easiest bumpers to install IMO.

The hardest part is re drilling the roller fairlead, which was easy. In my case I swapped the rollers to the Daystar Rollers, which was as easy as removing the C-Clips and swapping in the new ones. The ARB bumper requires re-drilling the mounting holes 1" lower.

Daystar rollers installed:
TLC80%252520ARB%252520002.JPG


Oviously the first step is to remove the OEM bumper and crush cans:
TLC80%252520ARB%252520003.JPG


I applied an application of rust prevention black paint, and installed the ARB, The Warn VR12000 required clocking and spacer kit, but beyond that it was a simple install with removal of the wire cable in place of Viking Trail line. I opted for 100" of orange 3/8" trail line w/ safety thimble and install was pretty straight forward. Over all the results look great...

TLC80%252520ARB%252520005.JPG


Here is the black safety thimble, with the Viking isolator:
TLC80%252520ARB%252520009.JPG


The control box was mounted via the Warn bracket included in the VR12000 as shown below:
TLC80%252520ARB%252520010.JPG


Overall it is a perfect fit for the 80:
TLC80%252520ARB%252520011.JPG


TLC80%252520ARB%252520012.JPG
 
Outback Drawers, 80 Fit Kit, and Cargo Barrier

Well it's finally in, the Outback Solutions Modular Roller Drawer Systems.

I opted for the RD1045US and the RDRF1045US with the 80 Series Fit kit. It only comes in grey, but I really like how it turned out.

Install was fairly simple once I figured out how it was supposed to go, (read after 3 test fits) and following the instructions. It mounts using the rear two tie down points and the forward 3rd row seating latch on the cargo floor.

Here you can see it attaching using the third row seat latch:
tlc%252520002.JPG


It uses several fully sealed bearings that make it a "no rattle" drawer system.
tlc%252520005.JPG


The fit kit fit perfectly, and the side compartments unscrew using a large dial screw to not waste any space.
tlc%252520009.JPG


The slam latches are a higher quality than I was expecting, and seem like they will last a lifetime.
tlc%252520011.JPG


I opted for the the Roller Floor to be on the driver's side so that when the fridge is on top it will not block the rear view as much as if it were on the passenger side:
tlc%252520007.JPG


Again the fit is very good. I was concerned about the fit, and never should have been.
tlc%252520012.JPG


In addition to the the drawers I added a cargo barrier. Again another easy no drill installation. The top brackets are installed behind the OEM rear (3rd row) seat handles:
tlc%252520013.JPG


The bottom brackets are installed to the drawer modules.
tlc%252520016.JPG

(disregard the German Shepard Dog hair... I had a helper)
tlc%252520018.JPG


Here you can see the secondary bracket, the one on the left is a "catch" in case of an impact, the top also has impact zone created into the mount as well.
tlc%252520020.JPG


Here it is all installed:
tlc%252520021.JPG


tlc%252520022.JPG
 
Lift is on

Well, the Ironman 4x4 lift is on.
001.JPG


I also replaced all bushings with the Ironman Bushing Kit for the 80, replacing all the bushings with Polyurethane.
IM%252520TLC%252520002.JPG


Ironman Rear Springs vs. OEM:
IM%252520TLC%252520006.JPG


Here you can see the differences in spring diameter:
IM%252520TLC%252520007.JPG


The IM kit included a new pan hard bars front and rear, caster correction kit, and shocks and steering stabilizer.
IM%252520TLC%252520009.JPG


For tires, I went with TRXUS MT's on the OEM Wheels:
008.JPG


Here it is all installed:
002.JPG


004.JPG


007.JPG


While the 80 was on the lift we did not see any major rubbing issues to be concerned with... so out to the lot we went to see where it would rub. The rear hits just slightly.
020.JPG


026.JPG
 
that is a super clean looking rig. the same suspension setup i am looking at. good work.
 
^Yes of course.
 
Looks good, and I like your taste in mods, but man that thing sure needs some wheel spacers and longer control arms!

Looks a little off with the wheels no longer centered in the wheel wells. Do you have any plans to correct for that?
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom