Flushing high mile motors?

[cahilc]

Majanrk,

No, you need to bump the hot viscosity too. In your example the 10 refers to the hot temp viscosity and the 30 to the cold. (This is a rough, but functional example.)

I'm going to assume your are not using a synthetic.

I'm also going to assume your oil pressure guage is correctly operating and all of our guages are fairly accurate compared to each others.

I would recommend a good quality 15w-40. Bump the hot viscosity and bump the cold viscosity. Monitor it and see if the pressure increases. Worst case, Valvoline 20w-50 but your not there yet.

Yes, there is wear in the motor which causes lower oil pressure. It is not a problem, but deal with it *now* and use the right viscosity oil. Your engine will *love* you for it.

Cahil

 

[jhstatts]

Cahil...

haha. Yes, I think my carb is probably as clean as it was when it originally left the factory.

 

[cahilc]

... carb is probably as clean as it was when it originally left the factory.

And lubricated too.

Carb cleaner contains a dry film lubricant which remains as a desired residue.

:+)

Cahil

 

[cahilc]

Jason,

You probably *toasted* your O2 sensor too. Not that you need it, because our trucks have a very primitive system, but O2 sensors have been know to be super sensitive to non-gas products.

Do yourself a favor and don't look up the replacement cost of an O2 sensor. If it fails, pull it and plug it with a bolt.

Cahil

 

[swank60]

Actually, the 60 doens't have an O2 sensor.

 

[cahilc]

Ok Swan60, I give !!!

Then what the heck it that thing stuck in my cat with a hose comming off of it ???

Cahil

 

[jhstatts]

I hope I haven't killed the O2 sensor (if I have one). Ha.

 

[Man Jerk]

Majanrk,

No, you need to bump the hot viscosity too. In your example the 10 refers to the hot temp viscosity and the 30 to the cold. (This is a rough, but functional example.)

I'm going to assume your are not using a synthetic.

I'm also going to assume your oil pressure guage is correctly operating and all of our guages are fairly accurate compared to each others.

I would recommend a good quality 15w-40. Bump the hot viscosity and bump the cold viscosity. Monitor it and see if the pressure increases. Worst case, Valvoline 20w-50 but your not there yet.

Yes, there is wear in the motor which causes lower oil pressure. It is not a problem, but deal with it *now* and use the right viscosity oil. Your engine will *love* you for it.

Cahil

Wow, cool info. Thanks, huge

Any reccomendations for dino oil brands?

 

[swank60]

Ok Swan60, I give !!!

Then what the heck it that thing stuck in my cat with a hose comming off of it ???

Cahil

It's called a Thermal Sensor (or thereabouts) - what it does is, when the cat gets too hot, it redirects air from the air injection system into the breather, instead of into the exhaust ports (AI rail on head) or into the exhaust pipe, thereby cooling the exhaust gas down and cooling the cat down.

But if you have to replace it, they quit making them years ago, and they're about a million dollars for a used one.

Thing is, if yours goes bad, you can test it if you have the emissions FSM. Not much can kill it though - it's not a sniffer, it's just a temp sensor.

 

[swank60]

Also, if it does go, there's a solution that Jeffroid came up with - you'd have to search the threads for it - might even be in the FAQ for smog stuff...but you can bypass the control it effects, one of the VSVs, and you'll get the regular benefits of the AI, only it won't shut off and go into the breather. Haven't really heard of anyone overheating their cat under those conditions, so it's probably safe to bypass - but you wouldn't want to run it and then ppark it in tall, dead, dry grass.

 

[OswaldtheBold]

Cahilc,
I think you have your viscosity numbers wrong. Viscosity increases as the numbers go up. (90 weight gear oil is thicker than 30 weight motor oil). In a 10W30, the 10 (thinner) is the effective viscosity when the oil is cold, the 30 (thicker) is the effective viscosity when the oil is hot.

In a single viscosity oil, viscosity is inversely proportional to temperature. It gets thinner (number goes down) as it gets hotter. A multi-viscosity oil contains additives (viscosity modifiers). They make the oil behave like a thinner oil when it is cold and thicker when it is hot. Think about it.

 

[Wildabeast60]

Nice post, Oswald. You are dead on.

 

[cahilc]

Swank60,

Thanks for the great info. Thermal sensor ... I would have never guessed. Every where I have looked, not an exhaustive search has labeled it an O2 sensor. Yup, ton of money to replace. I think SOR has one for about $460.

Thanks mucho,
Cahil

 

[cahilc]

OswaldTheBold,

Your right, thanks for the correction. I had'em swapped.

Cheers,
Cahil

 

[cahilc]

Manjanrk,

I'm a die hard Mobil One synthetic fan myself but if I were to look at a dino(fern) oil, I'd take a hard look at Pennsoil. That molecule stuff their doing in their base product really does work.

Cheers,
Cahil

 

[hj60]

I've found 15W-40 dinosaur juice to be the best oil for my 60.
But since, in finding this out, I've tried synthetics and additives and other viscosities, I've blown my front main seal. I get a good little puddle of oil underneath my tie rod every time I park.
So I'm running the cheapest dino oil I can get ($0.99/qt at work) until I can replace the seal. :-\

 

[cahilc]

So I'm running the cheapest dino oil I can get ($0.99/qt at work) until I can replace the seal.

hj60,

Actually, using the cheapest oil might make the leak worst. See if there is a good quality oil with a leak stopper additive for the seal. Might make the leak less.

Cheers,
Cahil

 

[Man Jerk]

OK, so in order to help my oil pressure, should I go with a 15W-40 or like a 5W-30 ?????????????????????????????????????????????

 

[cahilc]

OK, so in order to help my oil pressure, should I go with a 15W-40 or like a 5W-30 ?????????????????????????????????????????????

majanrk,

To increase your oil pressure go with the thicker oil. I.E. the 15w-40. But please monitor your oil pressure. I don't believe 5w-30 was around when these motor were built. 5w-30 is so incredibly thin oil. Use it ... and I guarantee a motor rebuild sooner rather than later.

The bearings in your motor run on a cushion of oil. Viscosity, pressure, ??? play an important role in preserving this cushion. When the cushion fails you get metalic wear. Not a good thing.

As OswaldTheBold corrected me previously in this thread ( it's still good to know I'm human) the 15 is the *cold* characteristic and the 40 is the *hot* characteristic.

I recommend Pennsoil products. Very good mineral base. Plus ... Pennsoil *does* have a superior molecular stucture mineral base product. World wide patent until 2008.

If you have sludge issues use a diesel oil. Superior cleaning capabilities. I.E. diesel fuel is lower grade than gas so diesels need this feature in their oil.

There are a couple of oil companies with seal swelling additives in their oil. Quaker State comes to mind. If you have seal leaking issues try these.

Be careful with *snake* oils. They are very good at separating the consumer from their $$$.

I have knowledge on this subject but I am neither perfect nor infallable. If you want somebody who really knows and has dyno tested these products give my mechanic a call. George Reed @ CJ's Automotive. 304.379.9000.

My best,
Cahil