Flexed till springs popped out

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those swaybar extensions are :eek: I take it you made them??

Those sway bar extensions are what happens when you're in age rush and can't get the nut to come off the top of swaybar link. It's a temporary condition - luckily you can't see rear bumpstop spacers in the photos, those are a temporary condition as well.

Swaybar links will be replaced in time with quick discohnects, or the whole swaybar may be replaced with one that mounts to the frame and has the links to the axles rather than the reverse as it is now. The way it is now just makes it more difficult to make disconnects for.
 
Well, I have a reduced arm angle compared to other lifts since I have drop brackets. If you follow his build up thread (which is super long), you can see what he gained when he did it.

I read that forum, so have been following his build from the beginning.:D

Really, there is nothing that says he x-link has to be built like that. There are other places one could mount the front pivot, and other shapes to make the connecting link. Wanna get wacky with it? Use the front mounts on the radius arms in the rear brackets. Now you've just lengthed your wheelbase several inches. Then bend a link to go from the back radius arm mounts to the top of the differential, where you put the x-link style bushing. Now there's nothing out front of the axle.

For me the wheel base is long enough. I agree that the x-link could be designed differently, but how it's currently designed is about the only "easy" place to put it? If you move it up the panhard needs to move. My first thought was to put it on the rear side of the axle, but there is too much "stuff" that I need, want to keep that's in the way. For me, playing in the rocks it's going to get hung up way too often where it's currently designed to fit.
 
I don't know what ultimate solution I'll use for the front. Any change is a long way off at this point. But, yesterday, at Disney, I came into a situation that comes up often, that is really unnerving. Coming down a steped ledge, driver's side tire dropped slightly before passenger side, and the whole body of the truck starts to follow the tire. I let loose of the brakes to let her come down a little quicker, and I don't know if it'd really go over, but it's definately unnerving.
 
I don't know what ultimate solution I'll use for the front. Any change is a long way off at this point. But, yesterday, at Disney, I came into a situation that comes up often, that is really unnerving. Coming down a steped ledge, driver's side tire dropped slightly before passenger side, and the whole body of the truck starts to follow the tire. I let loose of the brakes to let her come down a little quicker, and I don't know if it'd really go over, but it's definately unnerving.


yup, it's the fact that your rear suspension moves MUCH easier than the front and it it is leaning with the front. Going up stuff doesn't bother me much in the 80...coming down something, angled was where it felt "goofy" and un-nerving.

In this pic look how far the body is leaning...

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Which isn't "that" scary going up...but would be quite a bit un-nerving facing downhill.
 
yup, it's the fact that your rear suspension moves MUCH easier than the front and it it is leaning with the front. Going up stuff doesn't bother me much in the 80...coming down something, angled was where it felt "goofy" and un-nerving.

In this pic look how far the body is leaning...

attachment.php


Which isn't "that" scary going up...but would be quite a bit un-nerving facing downhill.

EXACTLY!
 
I take it no sway bars??
yup, it's the fact that your rear suspension moves MUCH easier than the front and it it is leaning with the front. Going up stuff doesn't bother me much in the 80...coming down something, angled was where it felt "goofy" and un-nerving.

In this pic look how far the body is leaning...

attachment.php


Which isn't "that" scary going up...but would be quite a bit un-nerving facing downhill.
 
Running with the front swaybar disconnected noticeably frees up the front. The ultimate flex is still limited, but the front axle can articulate without upsetting the chassis as much. I've been wheeling with my front disconnected for the last several trips, and I notice a distinct difference in terms of body movement.
 
No swaybars front or rear. Here's me seeing how unstable she was. The front flex's "ok" with the hitch pin pulled and longer shocks...but there is a much better solution.
MVC-543F.webp
 
But the question would be have you driven to these last several trips or did you trailer it? I drove my XJ's (had a few) all with no sway bars from or rear and didnt have a problem with them. Now with this tank I am not so comfortable to do it with considering the body roll these things have.
Running with the front swaybar disconnected noticeably frees up the front. The ultimate flex is still limited, but the front axle can articulate without upsetting the chassis as much. I've been wheeling with my front disconnected for the last several trips, and I notice a distinct difference in terms of body movement.
 
But the question would be have you driven to these last several trips or did you trailer it? I drove my XJ's (had a few) all with no sway bars from or rear and didnt have a problem with them. Now with this tank I am not so comfortable to do it with considering the body roll these things have.

Quick release solves that

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=146987

https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=22921

I have those bookmarked, as they're on my never ending to-do list
 
But the question would be have you driven to these last several trips or did you trailer it? I drove my XJ's (had a few) all with no sway bars from or rear and didnt have a problem with them. Now with this tank I am not so comfortable to do it with considering the body roll these things have.

I run normally without the front and didn't really notice any change on the street, probably attributable to the relatively stiff Slee springs I have. I haven't seen a need to remove the rear swaybar yet, but I'm probably missing out.

The front bushings mimic a swaybar in my opinion. I can really feel a difference with one of the axle-end control arm bolts removed. Much faster reactions off road, and somewhat less stability on.

-Spike
 
No swaybars front or rear. Here's me seeing how unstable she was. The front flex's "ok" with the hitch pin pulled and longer shocks...but there is a much better solution.



I think the idea is that with the front swaybar out--but the rear still on--the front is forced to flex more.
 
Spring Info?

Quote:
Originally Posted by LUVMY804EVR
I've been considering doing this for several years now but never pulled the trigger (radius arm and caster issues holding me back on the front but seems like a great idea for the rear). Have you come across any good candidates for bags?



Yes, Firestone bags. At home I have the specific part #'s I'm looking at if your interested. If you go to Firestone's site you can download their application guide. I just went through looking for those with internal bumpstops that have appropriate travel and aren't too large of a diameter. The application guide also lists who's using the bags, and Kelderman has several listed in the Firestone airbag guide ( http://www.keldermanairride.com/lift-kits/ ). Getting the bags isn't THAT expensive, but when you tack on the cost of a good control system that will let you have pancake, ride height, and topped out all programed, plus 3 wheel, ect. is pricy. Don't really need 3wheel motion like the low riders have, but like in these pictures it would have been nice to dump DS Front Pass Side rear and max out DS rear and DS Front to get the most pressure on the ground as possible, which essentially, is 3 wheel action. It's gonna be a while before I get to it, for sure. Time and money ya' know. Maybe I'll just start with the rears and a compressor with manual operation - I'd like to be able to dump the rear for my dogs to jump in and out.

Part of my shock choice being an adjustable shock is because it's preperation for bags - as bag pressure changes, so does the amount of damping you need to control the truck, so I figure ultimately I'll pick a couple of pressures I like for different stuff, and have a couple of coresponding shock setttings. - but that's down the road a bit.
Yes very interested, please share, :) reversible sleeve I'm guessing? You are correct there is a lot of information for their springs, just a matter of finding it and figuring what you need and what works for the 80. Have you ever contacted Kelderman or any other distributor to verify what you are considering will work including a good spring rate at the height you are looking for as well in addition to what you have mentioned above? I currently just re-plumed my old air ride system with a slightly better compressor I found for cheap. I've had it several years now with no problems but thought it may be a good time to upgrade to full air on the rear. Semi-manual system for now and working on 1/4" piping for the rear with a few attachments here and there for other on board air needs. I'm not so much looking for extreme off road functions and flex but think there are many benefits for loading my toys and family as well as towing and some day lower ride height with better stability while loaded or towing driving at highway speeds.
 

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