Flexed till springs popped out

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Explain how this works. It looks to keep the same radius arms and but the front bolt is now mounted to a link that pivots on the center of the axle? That center link now connects the radius arms together?
 
Radius arms are also on top of the axle...
 
Radius arms are also on top of the axle...

Not unless you move them. They are intended for use with the radius arms in the stock location, although they can be used with the arms flipped, from what I gather.

-Spike
 
Not unless you move them. They are intended for use with the radius arms in the stock location, although they can be used with the arms flipped, from what I gather.

-Spike
I was just commenting on what I observed in the second picture :cool:
 
Gotcha. I obviously got the wrong idea. Either way, the x-link is interesting. I was thinking of using it with flipped arms, but I'm not sure it would be any easier than doing a 3-link. Might offer more clearance, though.

-Spike
 
Heath, I am so happy you are spending your time and money convincing me to not mess with my 80. Been down this road, never saw a rainbow, never found a pot of gold, messed up plenty of good shoes :D
 
nice pic jfz80! I am still surprised at how well alky's rig flexed with the poor man's 3 link.
 
....
This photo looks better.... cranky-link, which is a home brew version - My truck in that situation would have the rear maxed on compression, and the body tilting more, and a tire in the air I'm guessing.

Cranky's rig has the arms on top, the reduced arm angle allows it to flex better, even without the x-link.

I like the concept of the x-link, but know that I wouldn't be happy with that road grader hanging down there. :eek:
 
Well I got a reply.

G'day there Fred
I have recieved your email and we a are currently gathering quotes for transport.
we can send you one direct for your own fitting not a problem.
I will reply soon with the full price.
Thanks Chad
 
If it is BEEFY I would run that setup, but unless it is I would destroy it in short order in the rocks I go into.
 
Heath, nice flex...

this is a familiar road I went down :D The sway bars help. I would definitely consider some sort of disconnect system. On my poser RTI thread, it showed a definite improvement with both sway bars off with the STOCK SETUP.

The problem that 80's have is the bind. There really isnt' any way to match the rear's potential in flex. You'll have to re-do the setup for more up front. I like the X-link idea in terms of alleviating stress up front...but for the price again you could fabricate a 3 link setup that behaves good on road and flexxes MUCH more.

From my RTI thread, on the ramp, with sway bars off I could only get the tire 29" off the ground. By using that longer shock up front and pulling the pin(i know you don't want that, but it's just showing what changes are made) I was able to get to the current pic of 37" off the ground.

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If I were to do it again...I'd probably stay with the 4" lift, OME shocks and swaybars removed. It wheeled pretty damn impressively at that and was MORE BALANCED without having to pull pins, custom mounts yadda yadda. I still was only really hindered by the size of the 80. If I was going to go for much harder runs, I'd 3 link the front without question.
 
Heath, I am so happy you are spending your time and money convincing me to not mess with my 80. Been down this road, never saw a rainbow, never found a pot of gold, messed up plenty of good shoes :D

Well, maybe I'm just better at it that you were! If you're happy with your set-up and your limited front articulation, fine, go be happy with it. But quite honestly you're adding nothing to the conversation here.
 
Cranky's rig has the arms on top, the reduced arm angle allows it to flex better, even without the x-link.

I like the concept of the x-link, but know that I wouldn't be happy with that road grader hanging down there. :eek:

Well, I have a reduced arm angle compared to other lifts since I have drop brackets. If you follow his build up thread (which is super long), you can see what he gained when he did it.

Really, there is nothing that says he x-link has to be built like that. There are other places one could mount the front pivot, and other shapes to make the connecting link. Wanna get wacky with it? Use the front mounts on the radius arms in the rear brackets. Now you've just lengthed your wheelbase several inches. Then bend a link to go from the back radius arm mounts to the top of the differential, where you put the x-link style bushing. Now there's nothing out front of the axle.
 
Heath, nice flex...

this is a familiar road I went down :D

I have your ramp thread in my favorites. It's nice to see step by step what was gained, and what wasn't gained. That's part of why I'm trying to take some measurements as I go. Get some real data rather than just how it feels. Though I'll tell ya', I rock ramped it yesterday, and the one feeling I got, was that of a rig about ready to tip over on it's side. If I could have gotton the body to settle a little more level, I certainly would have felt more comfortable - pictures to follow shortly.
 
ok, here's some more pictures of a 'rock ramp', those with the front in the air are actually after I backed down a bit. It was a little too close to going over considering who my passenger was...
Front.webp
rear 1.webp
Passenger side.webp
 
it doesn't look that extreme, and perhaps it's not, but in the previous pictures, it's balancing back and forth on two tires. Here are the measures...
Front Shock Measurement.webp
Rear Shock Measurement 1.webp
Rear Bump Stop.webp
 
couple more
rear 2.webp
passenger.webp
swaybar bushing.webp
 
and doing the same thing with the rear in the air
rear up - pass side.webp
rear up - front shock measure.webp
rear up - front.webp
 
rear in the air some more - touching front bumpstop, but not compressing it - remember, on all the front measurements, when my bumpstop is completely compressed, I still have almost 2" of shock shaft exposed
rear up - rear shock measure.webp
rear up - front bumpstop.webp
rear up - swaybar bushing.webp
 

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